Nitecore D-10 Comments & Questions

[droopy170]

Okay, have had my D-10GD+ for almost a week. First let me say this is a great light! I got lots of warnings about the UI not being good for an EMT/EMS setting and just being hard to use. I disagree completely. For me at least it has become intuitive to use and I love the one handed operation. I watched the video on youtube prior to getting the light and it took about 5 minutes of use to get the UI down. Plenty bright for lighting up what I need to see and quick to dim for checking pupils or other needs.
Now the question. Originally it had no induction whine (energizer E2 {L91} battery). Today I put some lube (radio shac precison oiler) on the O-rings. After reassmebly of the light I now have the whine on high. Is developing the whine indicative of a problem? I understand there is a bit of a lottery in which ones have it to start, but I not seen anything on developing a whine later. TIA for any input.

droopy

PS any good threads or videos on cleanning and lubing thanks again

 

[m16a]

As has been stated numerous times in numerous threads, the whine is not indicative of any problem, it is simply just the inductor vibrating in the light. Perfectly normal. My D10(a Q5 from the original run) didn't whine for the first day or so, then it started, I was worried as you are, but its no big deal at all. I like to think of it as the light is humming with power! :naughty: :laughing:

 

[droopy170]

Good to know. I hadn't seen anything about the whine developing later. And if I keep my thumb over the piston it covers up the noise. The whine is definately not a problem. I can not say enough about how great this light is.

 

[BabyDoc]

You might want to try a AW 14500 cell in the light, if the whine bothers you. It probably won't whine with that cell, and you may just get a bit brighter output.

As far as lubing this light, stick with the Radio Shack PTE oiler, especially on the piston and its O-ring. It works great!
As far as cleaning the light, get Deoxit Red. Use it on the split ring contact, especially under the split ring where the bottom of the ring makes contact with a difficult to see contact ring on the circuit board. It made an amazing difference with my EX10 when it started to misbehave and jump to high or low during ramping. Now it works perfectly. Be very careful to use just a very little bit of the Deoxit under the ring, and never use alcohol there. (The first time I cleaned my EX10 split ring with alcohol some moisture colected inside the reflector which took days to disappear, I guess because there is water in rubbing alcohol, even the 91 percent stuff)

Do a search on the forum regarding lubricants if you want other opinions about lubes. There are plenty of threads and opinions. In the end, you will have to try a few and see what works best for you.

 

[droopy170]

How do you get under the split ring contact? Can it be removed?


droopy

 

[litetube]

There is a way on the D10 to get the slpit ring out but you have to use a tool like a dental pick and carefuly patiently pry it out in a balanced manner . If you tryt to just lift it out on one side it may jam up and cause big problems. The Ex10 has an exposed ring when you unscrew and remove the head. The threading is opposite the D10 in that the head has outward threads and the inner threads are on the body. This makes cleaning the Ex10 LE assembly easier than the D10 which is somewhat "buried" in the head.There is space between the split ring and board but it is harder to get at on the D10. I have these pointed head cotton swabs I use to get under the split ring and they came out with some "gray dirt" when I cleaned it the first time. De-Oxit is expensive but seems to clean things up well enough , I also put a bit of the Gold on there after the red but probably overkill.

 

[BabyDoc]

There is a way on the D10 to get the slpit ring out but you have to use a tool like a dental pick and carefuly patiently pry it out in a balanced manner . If you tryt to just lift it out on one side it may jam up and cause big problems. The Ex10 has an exposed ring when you unscrew and remove the head. The threading is opposite the D10 in that the head has outward threads and the inner threads are on the body. This makes cleaning the Ex10 LE assembly easier than the D10 which is somewhat "buried" in the head.There is space between the split ring and board but it is harder to get at on the D10. I have these pointed head cotton swabs I use to get under the split ring and they came out with some "gray dirt" when I cleaned it the first time. De-Oxit is expensive but seems to clean things up well enough , I also put a bit of the Gold on there after the red but probably overkill.

You really don't have to put a swab underneath the split ring and you don't remove the ring. I use the Deoxit RED in the small aerosol can with the the flexible plastic applicator tube attached that you can buy at Radio Shack. I spray the smallest drop of the red on the inside bottom edge of the split ring and it flows into the space under the ring onto the contact ring on the printed circuit board. I GENTLY press down and turn the ring a few times to distribute the deoxit and disolve the oxidation. I let it dry and repeat this RED application a second time. (If I didn't have the aerosol version of Deoxit RED, I would probably use a needle and syringe to apply the stuff). For some reason, the spray Deoxit Gold applied afterwards screws up the operation of my EX10 for me. I think it leaves some oily residue to protect the contacts from oxidation. I had to remove the stuff afterwards with another application of the RED.