NiteIze 1W MAg drop-in driver -- Seoul capable?

Canuke

Enlightened
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Does anyone know the driver characteristics of this Nite-Ize Minimag drop-in? Is it regulated, boost, or ...?

I picked one up out of curiosity, and as it stands it's the greenest Lux I've seen since my early-model L4. Voltage in High mode reads 2.994V, which looks like direct-drive from 2AA cells to me.

I'd like to swap in one of my USVOI Seoul emitters, but I'm not sure whether their 3.25-3.5V rated Vf wouldn't result in a *dimmer* light (albeit with quite the runtime).
 
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I agree with the above (I seouled my Terralux, and love it). Main problem I see is that the nite-ize seems to have the Luxeon plugged into the drop-in. I'm not sure if it can be removed without damaging it. Worth a shot.

It should be a boost cct, because direct drive would be crazy dim with non-fresh alkalines etc.

If you want to check put a couple nimh batteries in. If it was direct drive (which I doubt) it would be very dim.

Let me know if you can seoul it... Curious...
 
gunga: good suggestion... quicker than breaking out the DC bench supply :) I just moved, and have no workbench area set up yet.

Two Eneloops that are likely to be below 50% charge, ran the LED at 2.96V.

Two Lithium Energizer E2's ran it at 3.06V.

So, I guess it's a full-blown buck/boost in there.

I take that to mean that I'd get 60-100% more light, with a possible small loss in runtime with the slightly higher Vf. I base that on my experience with the River Rock lantern, where the new Seoul had a lower Vf than the stock emitter, resulting in more light *and* runtime.

The emitter leads appear to be soldered/wired right in, so I expect that I'll have to cut those off right at the emitter case so I have something to work with for the Seoul. I don't know what I'm in for when it comes to detaching the slug, though.
 
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Almost a year later...has anyone successfully put a Seoul P4 on one of these?

I bought a less than stellar Nite-Ize 1W drop in that Nite-Ize sent a replacement for (but didn't ask for the bad one back) so I am thinking of trying to transplant a Seoul P4 on it.
 
Excellent!!!!

I assume you don't need to worry about isolating the SSC?

EDIT: Ignore - I missed the comment about the anodizing first time I read the info.
 
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I performed this procedure a while after reading bfg9000's post, but for the life of me I couldn't re-discover it despite trying numerous search terms.
I did a bodge job and just cut the legs rather than unsolder them.
 
That's what I should have done....I ended up getting a gob of solder in between two components while trying to solder the new LED in place.

Going to get a desoldering bulb and see if I can get it out of there.
 
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