No longer selling these... Please read this:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1231511226/0
But this post can be used as a great tutorial!
This little key chain light at Lowe's is made from a solid piece of brass! It is very heavy duty, but very small.
Here's the host:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=225284-50584-FT-MINI&lpage=none
I managed to get a FlexDrive inside there for an 803T blu-ray build! (then I made a red build, and then I made a 6X build - 215mW's!) Here are the pictures...
Update!
Awesome 405 glass lens that will give 26% more power over AixiZ acrylic for blu-ray! That puts my 215mW Key Chain build at 270mW's even though it is only at 183mA's! (although it is a 'freak' diode)
New lens: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1237515270
I found that the stock, 'stacked' button cell batteries were not enough to run a FlexDrive...
The answer was to use a 3.6 volt Lithium 10180 battery. Or better yet... the tail cap can be drilled out to fit a 10280!
The 10180 batteries are 90mAh... But the 10280's, are 180 - 200mAh's!
With this in mind, I chose the highest efficiency PHR diode that I could find to keep the current as low as I could and still have good power!
117mW's @ 117mA's!
With a 10280, that should give around a 1 hour run time per charge...
Here's the batteries:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=187951
Here's the charger:
http://www.powerstream.com/licoin-charger.htm
For the 10180 fit: I shortened the spring on the tail cap just a little, because the 10180 is just a little longer than the 3 stacked button cells that came with the host.
The only other thing that I did, was to bypass the little button circuit on the stock board to make it a momentary button switch...
It had some kind of little circuit that allowed it to be a constant on / off switch, but this did not work with the FlexDrive, so I just bypassed the circuit...
Notes: Figure a setting of about 130mA's to give (normally) 115mW's of blu-ray with the 803T diode for around a 1 hour run time between charges with the 10280 battery.
For a red, 275mA's still gives me 200mW's using the Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 diode, along with the AR coated acrylic lens that I have linked below. I bought these from flee-bay. (thanks for that Igor)
Considering run time (boost vs buck vs diode used), Igor did some calculations that theoretically should allow using a higher current with a red diode build!
Because the red diode takes less voltage, and the driver doesn't have to boost. A 200mW red, should be about the same battery life as a 200mW blu-ray. (I'm guessing about 1/2 hour at this higher current with a 10280)
Here's the lenses for red diodes. You'll get about 10% more power with these (vs AixiZ acrylic), and they fit right into the AixiZ module!:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Plastic-Collimat...ItemQQimsxZ20090220?IMSfp=TL090220123001r1848
For a 6X build - A high efficiency 6X diode, set at 180mA's, will give you around 200mW's! And even more... When Igor does the GB on his 405nm glass lenses fit for the AixiZ, this current will easily give over 200mW's of blu-ray!
Tail cap mod!
I found just enough room in this host for a 10280, by drilling out the tail cap!
(thanks for that idea Igor)
Now there is room for a 10280 (180 to 200mAh), which is twice the capacity of a 10180!
Battery tip:
The AW web site where I ordered the 10280's, says 180mAh's, but the batteries say 200mAh's on them!
I thought I would show that it is an easy mod to expose the negative end of the battery edges. This is needed with this build using the longer batteries. Because of the tail cap mod, there is no longer a center spring...
Battery Current Draw - for 3 different builds:
Here are my three different builds and the current draw on fully charged (200mAh) 10280 batteries...
* High efficiency PHR-803 blu-ray set at 117mA's and putting out 117mW's. - 175mA's battery current draw.
* Sony/Senkat 1239JL-54 red set at 275mA's and putting out 200mW's. (AR coated lens) - 228mA's battery current draw.
* High efficiency (freak) 6X blu-ray set at 183mA's and putting out 215mW's! (AixiZ acrylic) - 288mA's battery current draw.
I'm guessing the 6X build will be 30 minutes run time (or less), but who cares?... 215mW's of blu-ray in a Key Chain build!
Build tip:
Before you complete the build, make sure you check to see if you are getting a voltage reading between the negative end of the battery, and the host! If you are getting any kind of a voltage reading here, then you have not disabled the stock switch circuit good enough...
There is a connection from one edge of the board (which is ground), that goes to the center. This has something to do with the way the little circuit would let the switch be a 'constant on' switch. I found that I needed to 'scrape' through this connection to by-pass the circuit completely...
Otherwise, I got a voltage reading from the negative end of the battery, to the host. Strange... On one of my builds, I actually got a small current draw here, and it would slowly drain the battery. After I did the above 'fix', the problem was solved.
Another build tip:
For a build like this, where your module goes in last with a 'light' press fit, a custom tool is needed to be able to remove the module for diode replacement if ever needed...
The plastic AixiZ nut is not strong enough to to pull out the module. And if you unscrew the head, the wires will twist and destroy the driver connections in this very tight build.
I made this custom tool from solid brass round stock (in case I ever need it), which will work well for Leadlights, and this tiny Key Chain build as well!
It is 4" long, for a nice grip.
The thread size is 9 X 0.5
Here's the site where I bought the tap and die set: (look for 9mm X .5) Thanks for that Kenom!
Tap - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Metric+Taps:602,902,604
Die - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vi...tments=Dies,+Metric+(up+to+10+MM):603,606,599
Use a 7/32 bit for the hole in the tip of the tool... That way you can screw it all the way into the module, and not worry about the tool hitting the diode...
These threads are so fine, that there is pretty much no tolerance. Your piece must be exact before threading. Use a caliper that is accurate to 1/1000th. Then, get your material diameter exactly .361 in., and your good to go for the threading!
It's a good idea to leave an AixiZ module threaded on for protection when storing the tool...
Jay
I made a nice flashlight mod with this key chain light too!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=222029
Check out my new 'Pocket Mini Laser Build Kit'!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...75#post2791675
Check out my new "DIY Green Laser Build Kit'!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=219698
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1231511226/0
But this post can be used as a great tutorial!
This little key chain light at Lowe's is made from a solid piece of brass! It is very heavy duty, but very small.
Here's the host:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=225284-50584-FT-MINI&lpage=none
I managed to get a FlexDrive inside there for an 803T blu-ray build! (then I made a red build, and then I made a 6X build - 215mW's!) Here are the pictures...
Update!
Awesome 405 glass lens that will give 26% more power over AixiZ acrylic for blu-ray! That puts my 215mW Key Chain build at 270mW's even though it is only at 183mA's! (although it is a 'freak' diode)
New lens: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1237515270
I found that the stock, 'stacked' button cell batteries were not enough to run a FlexDrive...
The answer was to use a 3.6 volt Lithium 10180 battery. Or better yet... the tail cap can be drilled out to fit a 10280!
The 10180 batteries are 90mAh... But the 10280's, are 180 - 200mAh's!
With this in mind, I chose the highest efficiency PHR diode that I could find to keep the current as low as I could and still have good power!
117mW's @ 117mA's!
With a 10280, that should give around a 1 hour run time per charge...
Here's the batteries:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=187951
Here's the charger:
http://www.powerstream.com/licoin-charger.htm
For the 10180 fit: I shortened the spring on the tail cap just a little, because the 10180 is just a little longer than the 3 stacked button cells that came with the host.
The only other thing that I did, was to bypass the little button circuit on the stock board to make it a momentary button switch...
It had some kind of little circuit that allowed it to be a constant on / off switch, but this did not work with the FlexDrive, so I just bypassed the circuit...
Notes: Figure a setting of about 130mA's to give (normally) 115mW's of blu-ray with the 803T diode for around a 1 hour run time between charges with the 10280 battery.
For a red, 275mA's still gives me 200mW's using the Sony/Senkat SLD1239JL-54 diode, along with the AR coated acrylic lens that I have linked below. I bought these from flee-bay. (thanks for that Igor)
Considering run time (boost vs buck vs diode used), Igor did some calculations that theoretically should allow using a higher current with a red diode build!
Here's the lenses for red diodes. You'll get about 10% more power with these (vs AixiZ acrylic), and they fit right into the AixiZ module!:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Plastic-Collimat...ItemQQimsxZ20090220?IMSfp=TL090220123001r1848
For a 6X build - A high efficiency 6X diode, set at 180mA's, will give you around 200mW's! And even more... When Igor does the GB on his 405nm glass lenses fit for the AixiZ, this current will easily give over 200mW's of blu-ray!
Tail cap mod!
I found just enough room in this host for a 10280, by drilling out the tail cap!
Now there is room for a 10280 (180 to 200mAh), which is twice the capacity of a 10180!
Battery tip:
The AW web site where I ordered the 10280's, says 180mAh's, but the batteries say 200mAh's on them!
I thought I would show that it is an easy mod to expose the negative end of the battery edges. This is needed with this build using the longer batteries. Because of the tail cap mod, there is no longer a center spring...
Battery Current Draw - for 3 different builds:
Here are my three different builds and the current draw on fully charged (200mAh) 10280 batteries...
* High efficiency PHR-803 blu-ray set at 117mA's and putting out 117mW's. - 175mA's battery current draw.
* Sony/Senkat 1239JL-54 red set at 275mA's and putting out 200mW's. (AR coated lens) - 228mA's battery current draw.
* High efficiency (freak) 6X blu-ray set at 183mA's and putting out 215mW's! (AixiZ acrylic) - 288mA's battery current draw.
I'm guessing the 6X build will be 30 minutes run time (or less), but who cares?... 215mW's of blu-ray in a Key Chain build!
Build tip:
Before you complete the build, make sure you check to see if you are getting a voltage reading between the negative end of the battery, and the host! If you are getting any kind of a voltage reading here, then you have not disabled the stock switch circuit good enough...
There is a connection from one edge of the board (which is ground), that goes to the center. This has something to do with the way the little circuit would let the switch be a 'constant on' switch. I found that I needed to 'scrape' through this connection to by-pass the circuit completely...
Otherwise, I got a voltage reading from the negative end of the battery, to the host. Strange... On one of my builds, I actually got a small current draw here, and it would slowly drain the battery. After I did the above 'fix', the problem was solved.
Another build tip:
For a build like this, where your module goes in last with a 'light' press fit, a custom tool is needed to be able to remove the module for diode replacement if ever needed...
The plastic AixiZ nut is not strong enough to to pull out the module. And if you unscrew the head, the wires will twist and destroy the driver connections in this very tight build.
I made this custom tool from solid brass round stock (in case I ever need it), which will work well for Leadlights, and this tiny Key Chain build as well!
The thread size is 9 X 0.5
Here's the site where I bought the tap and die set: (look for 9mm X .5) Thanks for that Kenom!
Tap - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Metric+Taps:602,902,604
Die - http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vi...tments=Dies,+Metric+(up+to+10+MM):603,606,599
Use a 7/32 bit for the hole in the tip of the tool... That way you can screw it all the way into the module, and not worry about the tool hitting the diode...
These threads are so fine, that there is pretty much no tolerance. Your piece must be exact before threading. Use a caliper that is accurate to 1/1000th. Then, get your material diameter exactly .361 in., and your good to go for the threading!
It's a good idea to leave an AixiZ module threaded on for protection when storing the tool...
Jay
I made a nice flashlight mod with this key chain light too!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=222029
Check out my new 'Pocket Mini Laser Build Kit'!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...75#post2791675
Check out my new "DIY Green Laser Build Kit'!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=219698
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