A lot of people have been asking me for comparisons between the Novatac 120P and the L1 cree on RCR123's so I decided to take a few shots. Threw in the L4 for beam type comparison since most people know this one =)
Camera was a Panasonic DMC-LX1 set to ISO80 and white balance as cloudy on all shots, which gave the most realistic tint that my eye was seeing.
Keep in mind that the Novatac120P was on a full RCR123, L4 was on fresh SF primaries, and L1 was on an 80% or so RCR123. The 120P will be exactly the same whether it's on primaries or RCR's, but the L1 will be brighter using the RCR. This is not a comparison with the L1 on a primary since there's already a lot of those beamshots.
My wall is NOT white, it is slightly beige/tan so it looks slightly yellowish during the day under full sun.
First up, about 2 feet from wall so camera could capture the whole beam:
Hotspots aimed at painting, about 30 feet away:
Shutter speeds are reported on the left and apply to all pictures in the same row. Lights are listed on the top and apply to all pictures in the same column. 120P max on the left, L4 middle, L1 max on the right.
I'm kind of new to CPF but I've been helped so much on the board with my first few purchases so I felt obliged to give back a little
Note: Using an RCR123a in the Surefire L1 is not recommended nor has it proven to be completely safe for the LED. As always, Surefire recommends you only use Surefire CR123a cells in the light. So far I haven't had any problems but do so at your own risk!
Camera was a Panasonic DMC-LX1 set to ISO80 and white balance as cloudy on all shots, which gave the most realistic tint that my eye was seeing.
Keep in mind that the Novatac120P was on a full RCR123, L4 was on fresh SF primaries, and L1 was on an 80% or so RCR123. The 120P will be exactly the same whether it's on primaries or RCR's, but the L1 will be brighter using the RCR. This is not a comparison with the L1 on a primary since there's already a lot of those beamshots.
My wall is NOT white, it is slightly beige/tan so it looks slightly yellowish during the day under full sun.
First up, about 2 feet from wall so camera could capture the whole beam:

Hotspots aimed at painting, about 30 feet away:

Shutter speeds are reported on the left and apply to all pictures in the same row. Lights are listed on the top and apply to all pictures in the same column. 120P max on the left, L4 middle, L1 max on the right.
I'm kind of new to CPF but I've been helped so much on the board with my first few purchases so I felt obliged to give back a little

Note: Using an RCR123a in the Surefire L1 is not recommended nor has it proven to be completely safe for the LED. As always, Surefire recommends you only use Surefire CR123a cells in the light. So far I haven't had any problems but do so at your own risk!