OLight i3 EOS

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Have two i1's on the way along with 2 other lights. On the order I debated about adding the i3. Just couldn't decide, so I dropped the i3 off the order for this round.
 
Hi Photon:

selfbuilt's ITP A3 EOS review sample (link) has a Med -> Low -> High sequence

selfbuilt's Olight i3 review sample (link) has a Low -> Med -> High sequence

The Olight i3s has a Med -> High -> Moonlight sequence. Technically, Olight and Going Gear describe the sequence as "Low -> High -> Moonlight"; but the i3s "Low" mode is 20 lumens. The i3s has a hidden strobe mode -- you have to cycle through all the modes twice to get into strobe.


Here is a review of the i3s with beamshots comparing the i3 and i3s:


Here are two links for the i3 and i3s with manufacturer-provided specs/measurements/images so that you can compare them:

i3:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-i1-i2-i3-EOS-amp-i6-Paladin&highlight=olight

i3s:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...umens-CREE-XP-G2-Five-Colors&highlight=olight
 
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MojaveMoon07,

Thank you for your clarification.

The L-M-H sequence is a priority for me (as well as others on CPF) so I ordered an Olight i3 from Battery Junction.
 
Why not just put a mode memory on it and make everyone happy? I'll be buying it in the next couple days either way. Maybe what I'm really looking for is a T10 just in AAA format. With modern CPUs running something like 22 nm dies, it has to be possible to squeeze all that fancy circuitry into an AAA form.

The average user isn't just not stupid. I think the average user is practically a computer programmer just to be able to use the average smartphone. Hello, 2013.

At least taking out the PWM was a great step :)
 
Just pulled the trigger on one of these bad boys from GoingGear. Constant current circuit and the latest XP-G2. It might even dethrone my LD01 for day to day EDC.
 
I've had Olight i3 since last August and I've been USING it (I assure you I'm not gentle to flashlights) and I've had no problem whatsoever a single time. I just adore those :D And if you have more of them and have a glass of beer or wine, you can even do silly stuff like this...
Lego.jpg
 
And if you have more of them and have a glass of beer or wine, you can even do silly stuff like this...

And if you have the old iTP A3 EOS and a Fenix E05 you can do this...
itpfen.jpg

...an exercise in futility because neither light will turn on. The thread dimension is the same on both lights, but there are more threads on the Fenix. (Threaded parts ~1 mm longer)
 
@Dr. 444

I wanted to see if they'll still work.... :D :D I knew they would, but you know, sometimes something inside you's telling you...: do it, do it, do it :D


And if you have the old iTP A3 EOS and a Fenix E05 you can do this...

...an exercise in futility because neither light will turn on. The thread dimension is the same on both lights, but there are more threads on the Fenix. (Threaded parts ~1 mm longer)

LOL You now made me check if the Olight will go with the Fenix E05, too :D If I swap the heads, The Fenix E05 with the Olight i3's head works at low mode, but the Olight with Fenix' head won't work :ohgeez::crackup:
 
Re: Olight i3 lighting sequence question

What is the lighting sequence for the AAA Olight i3?

Several CPF posts and the online manual for the Olight i3 indicate a M-H-L lighting sequence.



However, a video review by Going Gear clearly shows a L-M-H sequence.

So which is it? M-H-L or L-M-H?

What, if anything, is the difference between the i3s and i3 EOS?

Thanks.

I know nothing about the difference.

However I just received an i3 from BJ and the switching sequence is L - M - H. If the light is turned off in any mode, after about 2-3 seconds, switching it on will always access of the L output.

On the other hand, the "manual" states: "To switch modes while light is on, turn light off and on within two seconds. Light will enter default medium mode after two secconds of being off." That is not the way my copy functions. For that matter, the "manual" never did state what the switching sequence was. On the front of the "Operator's Manual", the printing down below is:
EOS Series
(i1 EOS, i1 EOS SS, i2 EOS, i3 EOS)

sooo , back to reality for my i3 EOS as printed on the side of the blue light, the switching is L - M - H.
 
Re: Olight i3 lighting sequence question

The I3 has a L-M-H mode order.
The I3S has a M-H-L mode order.

The mode order changed between versions, which is unfortunate.
 
Re: Olight i3 lighting sequence question

The i3S doesn't have that nubby thing on the bottom. It is a little bit shorter and can tail stand, which I like a lot. There's a bit carved out on one side for a split ring and it seems very secure.

My preferred UI is L>M>H. The i3S is M>H>L/Moon (whatever you want to call it). This sequence is the worst for me and is designed for the mass market. I'm sure most people turn the light on, say, Oh this is nice and never even know there are more modes. The other thing with the i3S is the M is too close to H - not enough difference to be really useful. Really a shame because the L/Moon is low. I would love to use this light on my night table, but can't.

I'm running my i3S on a 10440 and it is bright and beam and tint are pretty good. The XP-G2 seems to be efficient - at least from experience, but I don't have a run chart to prove this.
 
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Re: Olight i3 lighting sequence question

I just can't have enough of my Olight i3...I've been using it multiple times daily for the past 6-7 months and about 10-20 days ago I decided I needed a change and bought a Fenix E05.... I carried it for about a week, but now put it in my BOB and took my Olight out for use again... I like that Fenix can use seemingly dead batteries, but the clip of my Olight is the best thing ever.... I just lllove not having to put it in my pocket and saving room this way. I love being able to clip it to whatever part of my clothes. I love being able to clip it to my pyjamas at night and having light available immediately almost under my neck turning at whatever direction and messing around in whatever way while sleeping... :D
 
Hello, This is more in reference to the ITP AS EOS, but is there any common concensus on which IMR10440 is the best option for power and safety (protected or unprotected). I'm sure there are a lot of choices, but as a newbie I can't seem to find a beginners answer to batteries for this little light. Thanks for any input on this.
 
Re: Olight i3 lighting sequence question

I just can't have enough of my Olight i3...I've been using it multiple times daily for the past 6-7 months and about 10-20 days ago I decided I needed a change and bought a Fenix E05.... I carried it for about a week, but now put it in my BOB and took my Olight out for use again... I like that Fenix can use seemingly dead batteries, but the clip of my Olight is the best thing ever.... I just lllove not having to put it in my pocket and saving room this way. I love being able to clip it to whatever part of my clothes. I love being able to clip it to my pyjamas at night and having light available immediately almost under my neck turning at whatever direction and messing around in whatever way while sleeping... :D

Agreed... but why did you buy an E05 when you already had the perfect light? ;-)

I started with a Fenix E05 but decided I needed more modes (especially a lower one) so I got an i3s instead. Just like you I always clip it on the clothes I'm wearing, never put it in pockets. I even removed the keychain triangle since I never used it (also makes it more comfortable to put in your mouth for quick close-up work that needs two hands).

Brgds... /BlueSwede
 
Re: Olight i3 lighting sequence question

aahhhh... I've always had a soft spot for Fenix... and the E05 is also shorter... so I guess that's why I wanted to give it a try :D
 
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