On/Off tailcap switch for Fenix PD40R

71Scamp

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I checked with Gene @ Malkoff and he can't do a custom On/Off tailcap switch for Fenix PD40R, so I asked what quantity would take it out of the custom category. I really want one. Anyone else? I'm sure they won't be cheap. Let me know.
 

chip100t

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I thought this some time ago that a tail switch off and on and a rotary switch for mode selection would be much better for me than the barrel switch on the pd 36r. As I keep inadvertently pressing it when turning on the light. I would d be interested depending on the price.
 

71Scamp

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That makes two of us. :) Most of Gene's tailcap switches seem to be between $40 and $50. No answer yet.
 

71Scamp

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The reply from Fenix was quick & negative. Two gents replied with different recommendations, a TK16 V2.0 and a PD36R. I reviewed them both and decided on the TK16 V2.0. It looks like it will work fine as my Scooter's headlight. It has two tailcap switches and will go to 3000 which I would only need if I drove the public roads at night. :) I still like the rotary level selection on the PD40R. Maybe someday Fenix will add a tailcap switch. I suspect that I'm not the only one who would like to pre-select a level and have the light "wakeup" at my desired level and be adjustable from there. I guess if neither Fenix nor Malkoff will do it we're SOL for now. :(
 

aznsx

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The reply from Fenix was quick & negative. Two gents replied with different recommendations, a TK16 V2.0 and a PD36R. I reviewed them both and decided on the TK16 V2.0. It looks like it will work fine as my Scooter's headlight. It has two tailcap switches and will go to 3000 which I would only need if I drove the public roads at night. :) I still like the rotary level selection on the PD40R. Maybe someday Fenix will add a tailcap switch. I suspect that I'm not the only one who would like to pre-select a level and have the light "wakeup" at my desired level and be adjustable from there. I guess if neither Fenix nor Malkoff will do it we're SOL for now. :(

This is a rather oblique reference and may be of little value or interest to you, but I'll mention it anyway. If by 'adjustable from there' you mean by the same method as selection of the original output level, I have a couple of lights that operate that way, albeit with only 3 output levels (which is usually all I need anyway). I normally avoid rotational controls like the plague, and these lights do not meet my normal requirement of being able to operate all control functions with one wet / slippery hand, and never require two hands; then again, neither does the PD40 from what I gather. That said, I bought these because they appeared to be fairly usable otherwise, and were available with a choice of emitters I wanted to 'experiment' with. They are the EagTac models P25LC2, and P200LC2. The rotational head may be set to any of the 3 output levels either before or after power-up, which is controlled with the 2-stage momentary / maintained-on tail cap pushbutton. As long as I have 2 hands to work with at the time, they work OK for me, and are otherwise pretty decent lights. Unfortunately they may (uncertain) be models which are being phased out, and are no longer offered with the same LED selections I have by the distributor I deal with (illuminationgear), but they've been known to do 'custom' options in the past. I don't know if any other models in the ET product line use this operating design or not, as I've not looked.

Edit: I purchased both of these lights several months ago.
 
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aznsx

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I keep inadvertently pressing it when turning on the light.

This issue is exactly why I can't use the PD25 that now lives in a drawer. I stupidly thought I could live with the side switch and leave it set on 'max' output. Wrong. I haven't bought a side switch light since except for the PD35TAC [EDIT: with the sole exception of a SL Stinger2020, which is a very different animal than my other lights in many respects] (and likely never will), as my permanently-habituated flashlight hold technique doesn't allow me to use them without changing hold (a no-go), and they only cause the unacceptable problem you mention; for me, a liability with no benefit. The 35TAC is the exception because in TAC setting, the side switch is effectively taken completely out of play and is harmless by a very long filter / delay function. Since I use max output almost exclusively, the 35TAC is fine with me, but I realize most users need to change output levels far more than I do.
 
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71Scamp

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Unfortunately the stroke makes two hand operation almost impossible and in any event too slow & awkward.
 
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