Operating a tail standing tailcap switch

SCEMan

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Nov 6, 2005
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Treasure Valley, Idaho
How do you operate your lights with a tail standing forward clicky tailcap?
As I've gotten older I find it uncomfortable at times to use my thumb and find myself using my forefinger instead. Especially for smaller lights without scalloped areas.

Anyone else doing this?
 
How do you operate your lights with a tail standing forward clicky tailcap?
As I've gotten older I find it uncomfortable at times to use my thumb and find myself using my forefinger instead. Especially for smaller lights without scalloped areas.

Anyone else doing this?
:)
Funny you mention it (but not actually funny in this case). Yes, I'll cop to that. Exactly. I've developed some particular hand, and specifically thumb limitations in recent years, and do exactly that at times with some such lights. They tend to be my 'around the house' lights and not my 'outside carry' lights; all of which (by intent/design) have more easily-operated switch actuators with good clearance around them, so I can still operate those fairly reliably.
 
Still use thumb, cigar grip.
 

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If it is shrouded at all it is strictly forefinger or two handed for me. I hold it by my side facing backward, click it then swing it around forward.
When I browse lights on Parametric I put in "side switch only" to eliminate the excess. Tail switch is easier to find in the dark but I am done with them.
 
Still use thumb, cigar grip.
Yes, absolutely. This is another of the techniques I employ. Also, the tip of the thumb, the joint of the thumb, and the pad / fat part of the thumb are all separate options and are all employed as possible depending on the light in order to minimize the impact of my 'disabilities'. We age, and we deg(rade), but we also adapt!!
 
Thanks all. Good to hear I'm not alone with this issue.

Appreciate the light recommendations and alternate methods. I do have several tail standing side-clickies (EDC18s, R50vn, etc.) and they make great walking lights.

I really have only one "unscalloped" tail standing light (Eagletac D3A Ti) to contend with and it's my backup travel light and too pretty to part with. I modded all the switches in my non-tactical Quarks with tall boots for ease of use.
 
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The trick is to get switches which are not too heavily recessed. Also use the tip of your thumb rather then the pad, but that should be obvious. Never had a problem with my Malkoffs.
Tail standing is useful with small to medium sized lights, but anything longer then a 3xcr123 light doesn't need it, get a proud switch instead.
 
I have the same issue and just go with scalloped tailcaps on all of my lights with the taller caps.

I prefer the light in the palm of my hand so I have complete, solid control over it, rather than the cigar grip.
 
With a tail cap switch I use my forefinger then rotate the light to hold it as if it has a side switch. For off I just rotate it in my hand to have access to the tail cap switch with my index finger.
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Finger tip button push

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Hold it like it has a side switch
The wrist strap prevents accidental drop.

Decades of using lights with side switches and preferring to hold the light at my waist rather than eyeball area make this technique feel natural to me vs a cigar grip or those "halt in the name of the law you perp" while aiming a gun powdered projecticle tool at them.

That's a winter glove covering a G2x Pro by the way.
 
I have been gradually replacing my smaller tail-standing lights with larger diameter ones, ie going from 18650 to 21700 size. Seems that I am too old to change from using my thumb and I find that going to a slightly larger tube (eg a Convoy S21) gets the "ears" out of the way.

For the smaller lights I am looking into replacing the tail-standing switch with a non-tail-standing but more thumb-friendly switch.
 
I have EagleTac's D25a Ti & D3A Ti and decided to mod one for easier tail switch operation. Ahhhh... Much better!
 

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