P1D CE or P2D CE ?

[Photon Joe]

I am looking to get a CR123A light for pocket carry and these two are calling me.
Which is the most dependable and easiest to use?
I really want the ease of use and least malfunctions.
Thanks for any experiences you can relate.

 

[bluecrow76]

According to the following two links, the P2D seems to do better on low runtime than the P1D, which is attributed to the low output level of the P1D being higher than that of the P2D (P1D is about 17 lumens, P2D is about 9 lumens according to chevrofreak.)

Fenix P1D E and P1D runtimes
Fenix P2D runtimes

 

[Photon Joe]

Thanks for that, I guess the P1D is not going to be in the running then.
I just want a small pocket sized single CR123 light without a lot of bells and whistles
to go wrong. But regulated for good runtime, and less than $60.
A lot to ask for , I know. Runtime is more important than brightness.

 

[Kilovolt]

I have both and P1D gets used really seldom. Personally I am not very happy with its UI because you always have to go through all levels including SOS and strobe or alternatively switch off and wait for the reset.
With P2D on the contrary you can loosen or tighten the head before switching it on and that gives you the possibility to choose whether you want to start on low or turbo.

 

[Photon Joe]

That sounds much better, I would be using low 90 percent of the time.
Thanks for the info.

 

[rockz4532]

i agree, p2d has a very good UI. I mainly use low too, low is actually pretty bright in the dark. low compares with my 3aa mag led. Med compares to my colman max 2aa. High is slightly brighter than colema max. Turbo is as bright as magled 3d, with a much bigger hotspot, so effectively, three times the output

 

[StarHalo]

I own two of each, and after many months with both, it really comes down to interface speed vs size. The P1D is small enough that it'll fit in your jeans key fob pocket, but it requires two hands to operate. The P2D needs a larger pocket, but is much faster to turn on since it's a tail clicky.

I still consider the P1D to be a remarkable showpiece that everyone should own at least one copy of, the output vs size ratio is so incredibly disparate that it's guaranteed to stun onlookers every time. But if you use your flashlight often, the P2D is probably a better deal since it's faster/easier to use.

Go ahead and pay a little extra for the Q5 versions if you can, it's worth a few extra dollars to have a much more efficient light.

 

[Photon Joe]

Thanks for all the info, I guess the P2d is the better choice, I will see if anyone I know has one I can play with and decide.
I have a lot of cr123 batts and nothing to put them in,(leftover from an old light I gave away) and need to put them to use.
A good pocket light fits the bill.

 

[bluecrow76]

I still consider the P1D to be a remarkable showpiece that everyone should own at least one copy of, the output vs size ratio is so incredibly disparate that it's guaranteed to stun onlookers every time. But if you use your flashlight often, the P2D is probably a better deal since it's faster/easier to use.

+1

I keep my two P1D's in various bags as backup or emergency lights... you know, just in case something happens to the two or three that are on me and the other who knows how many that are within arms reach at any given time! :twothumbs

 

[Photon Joe]

One more question, can I use an O-ring to keep the head from going to turbo and keep it tight for the general mode?
Thick enough to keep it tight and not allow it to go all the way down?
Or maybe thread tape, blacked with a sharpie.
Kind of set and forget.

 

[Kilovolt]

One more question, can I use an O-ring to keep the head from going to turbo and keep it tight for the general mode?
Thick enough to keep it tight and not allow it to go all the way down?
Or maybe thread tape, blacked with a sharpie.
Kind of set and forget.

Turbo is achieved through the contact of the edge of the body with the corresponding copper ring in the head's PCB. You can place an o-ring or better a flat rubber gasket over the ring while you tighten the head and you will always be in general mode.

 

[jag-engr]

Runtime is more important than brightness.

Joe,

The P1D is a great light, but I don't care for its UI. The P2D, on the other hand, is an excellent light, especially the P2D RB100 (if you can find one). I would not discourage anyone from getting one.

However, if you are concerned with runtime, you might also consider the NiteCore EX10. It can literally go over 100 hours on its lowest setting! The MAX setting is not as bright as the P2D's turbo, but it sounds like that is not a concern for you. I would also say that an EX10 is also going to be easier to unload on CPF if you decide that it's not for you.

The EX10 replaced my Fenix P2D and P2T lights as my EDC.

 

[bluecrow76]

The EX10 replaced my Fenix P2D and P2T lights as my EDC.

The only thing I like more about the Fenix line as opposed to the Nitecore D10/EX10 is the complete lack of memory function on the Fenix lights... but the Nitecore runtime is amazing, which is why my Nitecore D10 replaced my Fenix L1D as my ONLY AA light.

 

[Photon Joe]

I have been looking at the nitecore and it is tempting, a little over my price range though.