p1d-ce vs p2d-ce

[MartinSE]

I need to replace my former HDS U60. Are there any lights comparable to these fenixes?

My spontanious choice would be the p1d mainly because of the lesser size. What are the differences between these lights? Is the beam pattern more floody on the p2d?

Please share your thoughts and expreiences.

Cheers.

 

[Derek Dean]

Howdy MartinSE,
While I really like my Fenix L2D-CE, which with a 123 body tube can become a P2D, you should surely check out this new offering from Novatac, due out in about week (hopefully):

http://www.novatac.com/

There is a bit of controversy surrounding this release, as the original founder of HDS collaborated with Novatac for a time to help develop this new light, but had a falling out with the company somewhere around April 2007 and has since gone his own way to develop a new light which is possibly slated for a late fall release.

As far as differences between the P1D CE and P2D CE, one big difference is that the P2D has a clicky tail cap, and also has a readily available 2AA tube (which turns it into an L2D CE).

Also a slightly different UI.... in that the P2D has 2 "modes". Twist the bezel almost all the way on and you get low-medium-high-sos with the clicky. Turn it a bit further (all the way) and you get Turbo-Strobe with the clicky...... the P1D CE has a twisty UI with medium-high-low-strobe-sos (I think in that order).

edit: Oh, as far as the beam goes.... the L2D CE (which has the same head as the P2D CE) has an excellent all purpose beam. Good throw, with a bright spill beam.... not to wide, not to narrow.... a perfect walk-the-dog kind of beam. Hope that helps.

Ok.....happy hunting!

 

[Kilovolt]

In my opinion the P1 form factor is good for the pocket but a bit on the small size for handling. Mine tend to slip away.

I would buy a P2D with OP reflector to smooth away dark rings in the beam and abrupt transition between hotspot and spill. The U.I. is reasonably good and the size is perfect, not too small, not too large.

Additionally the price is good for the product you get.

 

[Khaytsus]

In my opinion the P1 form factor is good for the pocket but a bit on the small size for handling. Mine tend to slip away.

I would buy a P2D with OP reflector to smooth away dark rings in the beam and abrupt transition between hotspot and spill. The U.I. is reasonably good and the size is perfect, not too small, not too large.

Additionally the price is good for the product you get.

Personally I've not found that the dark ring is obvious unless you're looking for it... Camera shot, or light against a blank wall.. Yeah, you notice it. In any other real life situation, you won't.

The OP lights run about $15 more, they do have a nicer Cree but it's not that much better, so is it worth it? And I wonder if the OP takes away any from the throw, but I'm thinking with a Cree it does not.

 

[PayBack]

As far as differences between the P1D CE and P2D CE, one big difference is that the P2D has a clicky tail cap, and also has a readily available 2AA tube (which turns it into an L2D CE).

Oh I didn't know that (can you buy the body separately?)... I thought the P2D CE would be a great EDC (with a P1D CE as a backup light on my keyring) but my EDC would need AA's as I can get them late at night or in out of the way service stations (everyone has AA's) where as CR123's would be harder to find. If it can do both that's the best of both worlds!

It's just a shame the AA tube is butt ugly.

 

[Kilovolt]

The OP lights run about $15 more, they do have a nicer Cree but it's not that much better, so is it worth it? And I wonder if the OP takes away any from the throw, but I'm thinking with a Cree it does not.

Some dealers like Lighthound in the US and Qualityflashlights in Europe sell P2D standard versions with OP reflectors at the same price as the normal smooth reflector types (e.g. $ 52).

OP reflectors take indeed away some throw but in return you have a much more enjoyable beam. I got two CREE lights with easily changeable reflectors (Lumapower D-Mini and M3) and in both cases I made a direct comparison after which I never went back to the smooth reflectors.
IMO you enjoy a thrower for the first week after the purchase, then when you want to use your flashlight in the real world you need more flood.

 

[Art Vandelay]

I need to replace my former HDS U60. Are there any lights comparable to these fenixes?

My spontanious choice would be the p1d mainly because of the lesser size. What are the differences between these lights? Is the beam pattern more floody on the p2d?

Please share your thoughts and expreiences.

Cheers.

I'm tempted by the Novatac light. I think I'll wait for some reviews first. This will be the new companies first light. They are starting a modified version of a great light, but they no longer have the benefit of HDS founder and designer (Henry) working for them. The proof will be in the pudding.

The Fenix P1D CE is a fantastic keychain light. It is one of my favorites.

 

[half-watt]

...OP reflectors take indeed away some throw but in return you have a much more enjoyable beam...

couldn't agree more. however, there is one instance that i actually prefer the smooth reflector on the P1D vs the LOP/textured reflector on the P1D.

for the primary and max settings (and turbo on some other Fenix Cree models), the LOP/textured beam pattern is my preference - simple choice for me; i like the way they look, i.e., no "donut".

however, i also really like the 21hr burntime of the LOW mode on the P1D-CE and its, Mfr. claimed, 12lumen output. when i'm pushing the limits of LOW mode because i need a long burntime (e.g., nighttime navigation/orienteering involving, among other things recognizing landmarks at night and spotting blazes on trees in the dark, not reading maps, etc. up close), the 9lumen LOW mode of the other Fenix Cree models is just a tad too dim for me at short-2-moderate distances. Hence, my choice of a P1D-CE because of it's greater light output in LOW mode and still very decent 21hr burntime.

For the same reason, under the aforementioned use criteria, the LOP/textured reflector doesn't cut it either, because the bright, white spot, is dimmer. I only determined this empirically by trying both under the same conditions. Come to find out, under these conditions and this intended use, i'm really relying on the bright spot portion of the beam and not the spill portion.

The higher output modes are so bright for my purposes that SMO vs. OP reflector isn't an issue - both let me see fine, with the smoother beampattern of the OP without the classic Cree donut being an obvious choice for me.

Just something to keep in mind. One's main uses may lead one to make a different choice than others do, or that one would even make for other uses.

 

[cernobila]

Oh I didn't know that (can you buy the body separately?)... I thought the P2D CE would be a great EDC (with a P1D CE as a backup light on my keyring) but my EDC would need AA's as I can get them late at night or in out of the way service stations (everyone has AA's) where as CR123's would be harder to find. If it can do both that's the best of both worlds!

It's just a shame the AA tube is butt ugly.

You can also get a L1DCE body which is a single AA version of the P2DCE, its not quite as bright but not much bigger than the P2D

 

[carrot]

If you liked the HDS lights, you will like Novatac's offerings. However, Henry has stated that HDS is going to be releasing a new and improved model, perhaps as soon as September. That doesn't make Novatac's stuff bad, by any means, it's just not gonna be the latest and greatest in a few months.

 

[wintermute]

Get the P2D CE with the textured (OP) reflector. I would consider it a light orange peel, not a medium orange peel, because there is still some reminants of the donut around the hotspot (although not much at all) - and the light still throws very well. Considering that fenix-store only carries the textured reflectors now, I think that Fenix is going to stop offering the smooth reflector anyhow. Even with the textured reflector the beam still throws very well, especially for it's size. I have never EDC'ed a light until the P2D. I bought a bunch of the $1 Titanium CR123 batteries from Amondotech since SilverFox rated them so high. The biggest bonus with the P2D, is that you can also build yourself a nice little Fenix lego set, with the L1D 1xAA body and the L2D 2xAA body. I can not tell a difference between the P2D or the L2D bodies when the light is on Turbo. I use the L2D body when I am planning to use the light for long periods of time, simply because I have quite a few Eneloop and Titanium 2100 low self discharge NiMH rechargeables - hence with the L2D body, I can use the light for hours of guilt free light because I am able to use rechargeables. I also like the larger body of the L2D if I am using it for a long time...it's easier to have a good grip on the longer body. The low self discharge NiMH batteries help because even if I don't use the batteries for a month, they still have 90% of their charge left in them. Excellent stuff overall. So

I would definitely recommend the P2D over the P1D. It's still small enough for EDC, plus you have the lego set options to use other batteries for your long-term guilt free lumens.

 

[Khaytsus]

Some dealers like Lighthound in the US and Qualityflashlights in Europe sell P2D standard versions with OP reflectors at the same price as the normal smooth reflector types (e.g. $ 52).

OP reflectors take indeed away some throw but in return you have a much more enjoyable beam. I got two CREE lights with easily changeable reflectors (Lumapower D-Mini and M3) and in both cases I made a direct comparison after which I never went back to the smooth reflectors.
IMO you enjoy a thrower for the first week after the purchase, then when you want to use your flashlight in the real world you need more flood.

Aah, interesting. I got mine from Fenix-Store, didn't look elsewhere.

BTW, the throw on this is very similar to my previous EDC (still EDC at the moment), an E1e with a McLux with 3W Luxeon. Plenty of side light around the hot spot for me.

However, you could very well be right, I might would enjoy an OP better, as I doubt you lose that much throw. Perhaps my next light!

 

[Derek Dean]

Oh I didn't know that (can you buy the body separately?)... I thought the P2D CE would be a great EDC (with a P1D CE as a backup light on my keyring) but my EDC would need AA's as I can get them late at night or in out of the way service stations (everyone has AA's) where as CR123's would be harder to find. If it can do both that's the best of both worlds!

It's just a shame the AA tube is butt ugly.

https://www.fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=27_39&osCsid=ab6fdd04e7e481de026720b65b6270ae

Yep, I didn't like the look of the 2xAA tube at first either, however... it is now one of my favorite, and most used lights. Definitely an excellent value, and with the lego aspect, being able to have 3 different battery configurations is a wonderful bonus.

 

[GregWormald]

Martin,
I have an HDS B42 that I have had upgraded to a Seoul (HDS-S, and now about a 85-100 lumen light), and a new PD2-CE tr (textured reflector). The length of the two lights is the same while the whole Fenix is slightly smaller in diameter than the narrowest portion of the HDS-S.
The low of the P2D is not as low as that of the HDS-S and is non-adjustable. The high of the P2D is about the same as the high of the HDS-S, and the turbo of the P2D is brighter than the HDS-S. The beam patterns are pretty well the same. The P2D is now my most carried light.
Greg

 

[Art Vandelay]

Considering that fenix-store only carries the textured reflectors now,...

No, they have both kinds. You can get the standard smooth reflector with great throw, or the textured option. You can decide which one you prefer.
https://www.fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22_55&osCsid=a288b92861ace3d9e8f0ff661fde1f72
https://www.fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22_68&osCsid=a288b92861ace3d9e8f0ff661fde1f72

 

[MartinSE]

Thanks for your comments.

What motivates the difference in price between the lights?
Do they have different beam patterns? Can somebody who has both lights give a description of the beams, please? Does the p1d-ce have the same issue about flashing at max brightness on start-up I've been reading about?

Cheers!

 

[MartinSE]

Another question, is one of them easier then the other to open up and modify with new LED?

Thanks all.

 

[half-watt]

Thanks for your comments.

What motivates the difference in price between the lights?
Do they have different beam patterns? Can somebody who has both lights give a description of the beams, please? Does the p1d-ce have the same issue about flashing at max brightness on start-up I've been reading about?

Cheers!

the beam patterns look roughly similar to me. since brightness levels in any mode don't match each other precisely, brightness differences may influence my visual perception in this comparison.

not sure how other people's units compare as i've only seen mine.


regarding that annoying "flash"...

no, well sort of...

here's what i mean,

the P1D-CE does NOT have the same flashing brightly issue as the P2D-CE. Why? because the P1D-CE does NOT start at a low level, it starts at its Primary ~72Lm (Mfr. claimed) output level, then moves to its Maximum output level of ~135Lm (Mfr. claimed), and then its third level is its ~12Lm (mfr. claimed) Low output level.

this being the case, you must go through the higher levels to get to the lower level, making any very brief flash a moot point, as even using a Leef body with McClicky tail switch, which allows faster movement through the P1D-CE output levels via very quick, partial depressions of the tail button, causes the higher levels to output for longer than that startup "flash" some complain about.

now, to the "sort of" part of my opening statement on the "flash"...

i can see an extremely quick flash when i get to Low. however, it is so brief and is so "overshadowed", so to speak, by having to go through the Primary and Maximum output modes to get to the Low output mode, that i don't find it anywhere near as objectionable or annoying as in the P2D-CE. IMO, it's really very minor due to the need to put out some bright light in Primary and Maximum for moments that are just a shade longer than the annoying flash.

it makes that flash really a moot point, IMO. you've already blasted your eyes with two bright flashes that last just a bit longer (assuming you change modes very quickly) AND much brighter than that annoying flash. that "flash" is insignificant in the P1D-CE and literally pales by comparison.

did i make this clear? hope this info helps.

 

[onthebeam]

I want a light that starts in low so it sounds like the P2D is the one. But what's with this annoying flash I've heard reference to? Do all of the P2Ds exhibit this behaviour, or just some? If so, that is truly BIZARRE and can only be seen as MAJOR engineering flaw.

I know there are many P2D owners out there and that Doug at FlashlightReviews loves it. So why isn't EVERYONE complaining about it if it's such an annoyance?

 

[Art Vandelay]

I want a light that starts in low so it sounds like the P2D is the one. But what's with this annoying flash I've heard reference to? Do all of the P2Ds exhibit this behaviour, or just some? If so, that is truly BIZARRE and can only be seen as MAJOR engineering flaw.

I know there are many P2D owners out there and that Doug at FlashlightReviews loves it. So why isn't EVERYONE complaining about it if it's such an annoyance?

Maybe they haven't noticed it. Once it is pointed out, it's easier to focus in on it like a laser. The P1D does it too, if you haven't noticed.