PD20 head with LD10 body

[superpila]

Hi,
I've purchased an LD10 spare body for my trusted Fenix PD20. This was supposed to transform my EDC into an actual LD10, or at least this is what the shop's website states.
When I run the two setups, It seemed to me that they were producing the same output on turbo mode. So I measured amps at tailcap for both configurations and got the following results on a fresh CR123a (3.12V) and AA alkaline (1.52V).

PD20 with PD20 body: 0.97A
PD20 with LD10 body: 2.02A

This means that both configurations drive the head at 3 Watts regardless of the cell (and frankly this is what I was expecting)
This also means that PD20 on an LD10 body outputs 180 lumens, making it a pretty powerful AA-size flashlight!
I'm really happy with this setup, and I plan using this from now on (pd20 body is too short for my fat hand )

By the way, while I understand that NiMh or Lithium cells are the way to go, just for sake of curiosity, do you think that pulling 2 amps from an alkaline AA is safe?

 

[Gunner12]

It's safe but the battery won't take that for long.

The 1 AA setup should be dimmer, since the alkaline battery sags in voltage at those currents and the circuit is less efficient at lower voltages.

 

[jankj]

Swapping those voltage-sagging alkalines with a low self discharge nihm (such as sanyo eneloop) you should really notice an increase in performance. Such as less output drop during the (short) liftetime of the battery. Nihm perform MUCH better than alkaline in high current applications.

 

[pinecone]

Hi,
I've purchased an LD10 spare body for my trusted Fenix PD20. This was supposed to transform my EDC into an actual LD10, or at least this is what the shop's website states.
When I run the two setups, It seemed to me that they were producing the same output on turbo mode. So I measured amps at tailcap for both configurations and got the following results on a fresh CR123a (3.12V) and AA alkaline (1.52V).

PD20 with PD20 body: 0.97A
PD20 with LD10 body: 2.02A

This means that both configurations drive the head at 3 Watts regardless of the cell (and frankly this is what I was expecting)
This also means that PD20 on an LD10 body outputs 180 lumens, making it a pretty powerful AA-size flashlight!
I'm really happy with this setup, and I plan using this from now on (pd20 body is too short for my fat hand )

By the way, while I understand that NiMh or Lithium cells are the way to go, just for sake of curiosity, do you think that pulling 2 amps from an alkaline AA is safe?

If I might ask, where did you buy the LD 10 body? I'm getting ready to buy an LD20 and I want PD20 body to use with it.

However guess I could also buy a PD20 and hope to find a LD20 body. I'm new to this and assuming all these combinations would work.

 

[Abyssos]

pinecone,

I bought my PD20 and LD20 body and tailcap from Lighthound (http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix_c_76-4-0.html). I was also wanting a LD10 body but they didn't have it.

Love the LD20 body on the PD20 head. I am using Nimh cells and not feeling guilty eating through the batteries.

Hope this helps.

 

[pinecone]

pinecone,

I bought my PD20 and LD20 body and tailcap from Lighthound (http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix_c_76-4-0.html). I was also wanting a LD10 body but they didn't have it.

Love the LD20 body on the PD20 head. I am using Nimh cells and not feeling guilty eating through the batteries.

Hope this helps.

I'm confused. Your original post said you bought a LD10 body. You are now saying you have a LD20 body? I couldn't understand how you were getting a single AA cell to output as many lumens as a single CR123.

Regardless, I'm assuming the LD and PD components are all interchangeable and it's interesting to hear your comments. Anyone with info on this please chime in and give me some help. I'm about to place an order and don't have a clue..

Jerry

 

[Abyssos]

I'm confused. Your original post said you bought a LD10 body. You are now saying you have a LD20 body? I couldn't understand how you were getting a single AA cell to output as many lumens as a single CR123.

Regardless, I'm assuming the LD and PD components are all interchangeable and it's interesting to hear your comments. Anyone with info on this please chime in and give me some help. I'm about to place an order and don't have a clue..

Jerry

pinecone,

Superpile bought a PD20 and LD10 body.

I bought bought a PD20 and LD20 body and tailcap.

PD20 is a 1x CR123a light
LD10 is a 1x AA light
LD20 is a 2x AA light

But they all use the same head. The body tubes are interchangeable. You can play LEGO as you wish. The tailcaps are not interchangeable between the PD and LD series.

 

[Spence]

Lighthound emailed me that they now have LD10 bodies in stock and I'm ready to order one. I have new LD20, PD20 and PD30 lights. I'm a little confused. Maybe it's simpler asking what combinations DON'T work together? I planned on swapping My LD10 onto the LD20 head and tail cap. What benefits do you get using the LD10 body with the PD20 head and will the PD20 tail cap work with it?
:thinking::candle::sick2:

 

[pinecone]

pinecone,

Superpile bought a PD20 and LD10 body.

I bought bought a PD20 and LD20 body and tailcap.

PD20 is a 1x CR123a light
LD10 is a 1x AA light
LD20 is a 2x AA light

But they all use the same head. The body tubes are interchangeable. You can play LEGO as you wish. The tailcaps are not interchangeable between the PD and LD series.

Sorry....got messed up on who was posting. I'm new to Fenix lights and find this quite interesting on the mix and matching. Kind of surprised the tailcaps of LD and PD won't match up.

 

[EPVQ30]

a PD20 can't become a LD10 nor a PD30.

 

[Gunner12]

a PD20 can't become a LD10 nor a PD30.

It can't be a PD30 but it can be a LD10. The PD30 uses a buck circuit but the PD20 uses a boost circuit. Driving 6v through a light meant for 3v and below is bad for the light. For it to be a LD10, you'll also need the talicap.

 

[pinecone]

OK this all makes sense to me. But in Superpila's op he mentioned both single CR123 and AA applications were drawing 3 watts. This doesn't surprise me but it does surprise me he states he is getting same light output.

The LD10 is advertised turbo mode at 120 lumens and the PD20 at 180 lumens. It sure seems the 3 volt battery would provide a higher output than the 1.5 volt application at a shorter runtime.

I got a lot to learn about these led's!

 

[superpila]

After further investigation I can confirm what I wrote in the first post: When fed with a single AA cell, PD20 seems to draw 3Watts, regardless of the battery chemistry. So far, I've tried Alkaline and Energizer Lithium, and Ampere reading at tailcap times battery voltage always makes 3 watts in the end.
Another thing worth pointing out is that not only PD20 running on a AA on turbo mode seems to give the same output of CR123, but it also seems noticeably brighter than my PD30 at HIGH, which should have approximatively the same output of the actual LD10 on turbo, and barely distinguishable from PD30 on TURBO.
Now I'm really curious what the wattage of the real LD10 on turbo is. If someone owns it and can make measurements...

BTW, I bought LD10 body from the Photon Shop: http://www.thephotonshop.co.uk/

 

[pinecone]

After further investigation I can confirm what I wrote in the first post: When fed with a single AA cell, PD20 seems to draw 3Watts, regardless of the battery chemistry. So far, I've tried Alkaline and Energizer Lithium, and Ampere reading at tailcap times battery voltage always makes 3 watts in the end.
Another thing worth pointing out is that not only PD20 running on a AA on turbo mode seems to give the same output of CR123, but it also seems noticeably brighter than my PD30 at HIGH, which should have approximatively the same output of the actual LD10 on turbo, and barely distinguishable from PD30 on TURBO.
Now I'm really curious what the wattage of the real LD10 on turbo is. If someone owns it and can make measurements...

BTW, I bought LD10 body from the Photon Shop: http://www.thephotonshop.co.uk/

Since the PD and LD heads are the exact same head why would you expect different wattage in the real LD10 light from your PD20 head/LD10 body combo using the same battery?

By the way, the reason I'm so interested in all this is I'm getting ready to order these lights. Can't decide which combo I want. I'll have to work it around the PD20 as you can't seem to buy that body by itself.

thanks for all the info

Jerry

 

[superpila]

Since the PD and LD heads are the exact same head why would you expect different wattage in the real LD10 light from your PD20 head/LD10 body combo using the same battery?

By the way, the reason I'm so interested in all this is I'm getting ready to order these lights. Can't decide which combo I want. I'll have to work it around the PD20 as you can't seem to buy that body by itself.

thanks for all the info

Jerry

I got mine from the photon shop: http://www.thephotonshop.co.uk/
I got PD20 and spare LD10 body+switch, and I'm planning to purchase an LD20 body too. If you don't plan using these lights at the same time, buying a single head and different bodies saves you some money.
As far as the amp reading is concerned, I don't know what to say: I simply read 2.0 amps. for 1.5 volts and 1.0 amp with 3.0 volts. I'll post pictures next week (don't have the PD20 now).
In any case, I definitely recommend this setup: being able to swap between AA, 2xAA and CR123 like some cheap DX flashlights, while retaining the Fenix quality, to me is really a plus.

 

[DHart]

I think I'm inching closer to pulling the trigger on a PD20 & LD10 body. This will be my first Fenix. I think it's about time for me. :thinking:

 

[MichaelW]

If you use alkaline cells, Fenix's decision to increase the output of the LD10 turbo {if indeed such a change was made} to match LD20 & PD20 is irrelevant.

With one AA alkaline [LD10], if you want regulated output then you should limit yourself to medium output at most.
See graphs.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175758
With two AA alkalines [LD20], if you want regulated output then you should limit yourself to high output at most.


Now if you want to use a NiMH AA, lithium AA, or split a CRV3 [the old very expensive way to have the turbo mode of L1D match L2D & P2D], have at TURBO!
Lithium AAs would be even more expensive now if the output was increased, and runtime was decreased.

 

[DHart]

Now if you want to use a NiMH AA, lithium AA... have at TURBO!

Oh, I like those AA cells, if you can go that route. These lights can't handle Li-Ions, can they?

 

[Marduke]

Oh, I like those AA cells, if you can go that route. These lights can't handle Li-Ions, can they?

They operate in turbo/strobe/sos only. No low modes.

 

[DHart]

Fenix has such a challenge in today's competitive market to upgrade their lights up to running on Li-Ions (with full features) and offering a l....o....w low. Anyone have any idea if this is something they are likely to offer anytime soon? That's all it would take to make me a Fenix owner. The competitive brands which do offer those features are winning my business (and draining my wallet!) big time.