Pelican M6 LED overdriven ?

greenLED

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OK, so it took a while, but here're some answers to my questions from a Pelican rep. I asked:
1. What would be a good (safe) way to clean the reflector.
2. Using the incandescent module in the M6 LED body.
3. Fixing the rough threads on the head.

Good Day Miguel: In reply to your questions about the M-6 Flashlight, here are your answers.
You can gently wipe the dust particles from that reflector with a soft cloth or Q-tip will probably work better.

You can put your M-6 incandescent onto your M-6 LED Body it will still work. No difference and yet a slight difference as far as loading that module into the new body's shroud. Give me a call and I'll gladly walk you thru the process if it is not clear.

About the threading being a bit rough. It's just because its new. It will ware in and get smoother with use. No there is no lubricant to speak of for the rough bezel. But the proper and only lubricant you should use on your O-rings is Silicone Grease and only Silicone grease.

I think I have covered all your questions, But if you have more, Please feel free to contact me anytime.

Regards,


Nora Wainwright
Sales Technician
Pelican Products, Inc.
(800)473-5422 ext 342

Her answer to #2 is definitely not clear, but I can't deal with it right now. I know the old style incandescent fits in the LED body (tried it myself). I read elsewhere on the site that to fit the new incandescent assembly you need to remove the reflector and spring, and some discussion about "new" style bodies with/without lamp assembly threads (can't remember the details now). I haven't verified these last two claims myself.
 

357

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I just got my fourth and fifth Pelican M6 LED.

My new black one has a different style of holster. The holster has an extra container for spare batteries. How cool! However, it does make carrying a bit less easy. I like the addition of the battery holder though. It also came in a box, instead of the plastic wrap.

My new silver M6 LED doesn't have the new holster and didn't come with the box.

Of my 5 Peli M6 LEDs, 4 are WHITE...to the point that every other flashlight I compare them to looks tinted. My one silver M6 LED has very slight green tint, but its only noticable when comparing it to the other 4 Peli M6 LEDs (the black ones). I assume its a fluke of random chance that my only silver one is slightly tinted other than white?
 

The_LED_Museum

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My silver one has a slight greenish tinge to it; really only noticeable when comparing it with other LS lights. I don't have a black one though, so I cannot perform a comparative analysis of any type.

To put this thread on the topic it started with, mine consumes 485mA from the two CR123A cells that came with it.
 

Aten_Imago

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JK
RE:"I've heard this said before, but it does not seem logical. Why would the amount of money spent on batteries make the cost of a new flashlight insignificant? That's analogous to saying the money one spends on gas for an automobile makes the cost of a new one insignificant."
That is a very apt observation on your part JK but the analogy is not correct since the initial cost of most cars generally exceeds the fuel costs over the life of a car. In a business model where the expendible component (fuel or battery) bust be constantly replaced- in a product that has a long life (1-100 years) but where the initial cost of the product is relatively low ( compared to other durable goods such as washing machines, cars etc); the commulative cost of refueling will indeed exceed the original cost of the product by many times.More simply put, the original cost of a product that is intended to be used a long time is only relevant from the point of view immediate affordablity not long term affordability. This business model was really developed by the Gillette company in recognizing that 1) Men were really pricing shaves not razors or blades and 2) Selling a million Gillette razors was really a way to sell millions of razor blades and even more shaves. Notice how Surefire sells a brand of their own batteries? Its the same logic. The interesting part is the disposability of the flashlight due to technological improvements. Harware redundancy was really the invention of the Computer industry. The model at work there is not only a business model, but a cultural and psychological one as well. If you can convince people that they can't be happy without having the latest version of something, then It doesn't even matter that they'll never run a product out of warranty or into the ground- they'll be buying a new flashlight every time you offer an improvement and long befoe thier current model has exceeded its usefullness. It's the insanity of our consumer culture that encourages and supports this Psychological Replacement Model.IMHO, the best values therefore are middle range products that offer the middle or higher performance for an average cost at half or more of the total projected lifespan of the premium product. The worst values therefore would be top-of-the-line and bottom-of-the-barrel as they would see under-utilization and over-utilization respectively. So the most profitable and valuable flashlights to users as contrasted with collectors are the ones that offer this ideal compromise.That explains why M*G has enjoyed so much success (in the past) whilst other makers have either served a small niche or a large market for disposables.
 

gadget_lover

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While I think ATEN has summed up the phycology behind the way people act (in general) the average person, if they are forced to thimk about it, look at the immediate purchase price and projected life as being much more important. Long term costs are seldom thought about.

Most people would be appalled to realize that if they sell their car after driving only 75000 miles that they would have only used it for 1800 hours if their average speed was 40mph. Only 1153 hours if it was driven exclusively on the freeway.

So a flashlight with a 500 hour LED life used around my house will last for decades if used a few minutes a month. The same flashlight would be unaccesptable for use by a security guard on a beat who uses it for 8 hours a night.

Bringing it back on subject... It does look like it is over-driven, just like my LED Sabrelite. The converter would have to be only 30% efficient to deliver only 1 watt to the LED.

I have to wonder if they are really using Lux III as if they were 1 watt LEDs. You can always just replace the enitter with one of your own choosing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I like the pelican's anyway.


Daniel
 

3rd_shift

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The lux3 is only 5 bucks more than a lux1. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
That would make sense since it would cut down on the number of warranty returns.
I have a pair of ledlenser v2 powerchip 3n cell lights with "1 watt powerchip"
I smashed in the "try me" dimples on every package on the rack to find out which was the brightest. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
I found 2 out of over 50 (yes I was there a while) that stood out as the best $40 values. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Most of the others were either dim, puke green or puke pink. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smoker5.gif
The 2 I found were whiter and much brighter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
These things have also allowed about 700ma of current through them with 3 rad shack 360mah N cell nimhs many times already and they still havn't failed yet, or gotten any dimmer as I can see.
Runtimes are about about 30 minutes per charge at full brightness, dimming afterwards.
These are also about the same color as some of the earlier lux3s were. (I got these last January)
I gotta wonder if some of us with "1 watt emitters" may actually have underdriven 3 watters for reliability and quality sake.
Whether Pelican did that for real or not is another question. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif
Since some of thier products do end up in the hands of security personnel like myself, I would sure hope so. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
 
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