Sold/Expired Perfectly Anodized ARC MOFO-CLICKY FOR SALE In stock!!

[Bullzeyebill]

Will, as long as we are confessing, I am the one (the other one) that has height issues, and the one (other one) with intermittent circuit issues. I too am using a First Run, and with a custom circuit (flupic). My solution is to remove the McClicky and trim the spring to reduce pressure on battery. I am using a RCR123, OAL is same as a Surefire CR123. I really like the MOFO, which will provide low switch resistance, and of course, tail stand ability.

Bill

 

[nekomane]

Got home today to find the package stuffed in the mailbox.
Nice, very nice :goodjob:

 

[Reima]

Got mine today.
RC

 

[yaesumofo]

Hey guys Just a shipping update I am out the door with this weeks shipment.
My next ship day is next wednesday.
I am glad you guys are receiving these overseas.

I have a question for you one lucky person received a part that I did not mean to ship. It is the part pictured above somewhere that doesn't have any anodizing around the switch it just has chem film and has a sort of golden color.
I really like that unit and did not mean to ship it out.
If you are the lucky person who received that part and you would prefer to have one with the complete coat of anodizing let me know and I will trade you I will even throw in something cool for your trouble.
There were 2 oddball units that came out of the anodizing bath. That was one of them the other came out a grey color and looks really cool against the dark ARC anno.
Normally I keep the oddball units since they aren't first quality units.
My hope is that these give you good service for many years to come.
Thanks for the support.
yaesumofo

 

[liqht]

thank you yaesumofo for the bonus cr2 pack. (i was one of the lucky 20.) that was a really nice thing to do and i very much appreciate it.

 

[reptiles]

Very nice looking.

But forgive my memory... how do I know if my ARC LS is first run or not?

Regards,

Mark

 

[yaesumofo]

The first run parts had a 2 part head and FIRST RUN is etched onto the bezel.
yaesumofo

Very nice looking.

But forgive my memory... how do I know if my ARC LS is first run or not?

Regards,

Mark

 

[nekomane]

First Run shown on Right

 

[AvroArrow]

Just got my 2 mofo clickies and bonus cr2 tail today. Man these are really nice. The anodizing perfectly matches my LSL head. Adding the clicky does make it bigger, almost the same size as my HDS I think (I'll check when I get home), but what a difference in the switch. No way I'm going to accidentally turn this baby on in my pocket (which is a good thing).

Now I'm going to have to unwrap my FluPICs and SSC P4s that I've got sitting around and build myself a light engine worth of this clicky. Thanks again for the bonus offer and following my mailing instructions!

Now that I'm home, I took a pic of some lights for a size reference:

 

[Uriah]

I got mine today and it works Perfectly!!!!
Thanks Again

 

[yaesumofo]

All current orders have shipped.
I await your reports and photos.
Yaesumofo

 

[karlthev]

My photo "skills" are at best, questionable. I think some of the previous pictures do this fine piece the accolades it deserves. This tail displays some of the finest annodizing I have ever seen and I have a number of nice custom and production lights. Now, I must tell all here and say that I wasn't that pleased with my first MOFO-CLICKY--no matter what I tried, I seemed to have some dang problem or another. I'm not against fiddlin' around but, I was encouraged to send it back to Yaesumofo. I did and received my fine replacement today. So?? So, it works as well as it looks--fantastic on my two of my Mosport modded LSs and on other LSs straight from the factory!! So? Well, you'd better get 'em while they're still available!! Tailstand if that's what you wish. More dependable operation. Perfect match to the LS. Nice job, very nice job!!:twothumbs

Karl

 

[stldnder]

I apologize in advance, but will this fit an Arc 4+? I own an Arc LSH-S, and know it will work on that. I just purchased an Arc 4+ (thanks again, Carpe Diem!), am waiting on its arrival so I can't currently compare it to the LSH-S, and am unsure if the 4+ is considered an LS.

Any information is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[yaesumofo]

Unfortunatly the MOFOCLICKY will not fit an ARC 4 flashlight.
It will work perfectly with your ARC LS.

Thanks Karl. Sorry we had such a hard time getting that first one going.
Yaesumofo

I apologize in advance, but will this fit an Arc 4+? I own an Arc LSH-S, and know it will work on that. I just purchased an Arc 4+ (thanks again, Carpe Diem!), am waiting on its arrival so I can't currently compare it to the LSH-S, and am unsure if the 4+ is considered an LS.

Any information is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[karlthev]

I need to give a bit of clarification here. While I did indicate that the annodizing is some of the best I have ever seen (could very well BE the best!), I see that I didn't identify that the knurling is not only useful but far superior to the original Arc LSs and, as all of you should realize by now, I am a bit of a fan of the LSs. I have always found that the knurling on the LSs tended to be a bit more decorative than useful. With the addition of the MOFO-CLICKY I think you will all notice an improvement in the grip--"purchase"--on your Arc LS.:bow:


Karl

 

[AvroArrow]

...I see that I didn't identify that the knurling is not only useful but far superior to the original Arc LSs...Karl

^ What he said. I knurling is just about perfect for grip. Not too decorative, and not too aggresive (like the HDS I have), just the right balance.

I do have one question though. I'm not very familiar with the Aleph/McClicky stuff but I was browsing around and found the McE2S 2-stage switch. Would the McE2S fit in place of the McClicky? And would it work with the stock Arc board?

 

[mahoney]

""Would the McE2S fit in place of the McClicky? And would it work with the stock Arc board?""

I have been pondering about this very same question.

First, the part I can answer.

The first run LS board is a voltage boost board. It will get dimmer with a resistor in the circuit. I have not played around enough to dial in a value yet for an optimal 2 stage, but it will work.

The first run hybrid and all the second run (LS2, LSH, LSL, LSHP, etc.) use a Badboy circut, and it will also dim nicely with a resistor in series. Anywhere between 5 and 22 ohms should work, depending on how dim you want the first stage to be.

Would it fit? That will depend on 2 things. How the z-axis space allotted for the McClicky threaded area (about 6mm needed) compares to the z-axis space required by the McE2S (about 6.5mm needed) and how big the diameter of the hole in the aluminium ring that provides continuity for the McClicky is. I suspect the problem, if any, will lie here. The battery end of the McClicky will fit in a 12mm hole, the McE2S requires a 13mm hole.

Yaesumofo will have to answer that part for you.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Get a Flupic for that First Run and you will have three brightness levels. That's the way mine is set up, with Bombelman's help. Works great with MOFO, but I can't twist MOFO all the way down. I still have not cut down the spring, but it does not seem a priority to me.

Bill

 

[yaesumofo]

In all of my test units and stock units the MOFOClicky screws all the way down. I don't understand why yours dont. If you aren't concerned neither am I.
I have a couple modded arc lights which have piglets the added modes are very useful.

I don't believe there a way to convert the McClicky which I am using to a dual mode switch. These units are sealed (more or less) and just about any effort to open them or alter them in any way destroys them.
One of the reasons I set the system up they way I have is so the switch is totally protected from any impact. they are protected internally by the continuity ring and externally by the boot guard which also prevents unintentional engagement of the switch. I have been EDC ing one of several units every day for a few months and have never hed the light go on accidentally ever. On my test unit I carry it in my pocket with keys and other objects. So far I am extremely pleased with the durability of the type III finish. Normally brights appear in the areas of knurling first. so far I haven't seen any of this.
Don't get me wrong carry it in your pocket with other hard objects and sooner or later the finish will wear down.
In the few months I have been carrying my test bed arc/piglet/mofoclicky light this has not happened yet. Thanks Karl for the complement about the finish and the knurling.
Yaesumofo

Get a Flupic for that First Run and you will have three brightness levels. That's the way mine is set up, with Bembelman's help. Works great with MOFO, but I can't twist MOFO all the way down. I still have not cut down the spring, but it does not seem a priority to me.

Bill

 

[AvroArrow]

I don't believe there a way to convert the McClicky which I am using to a dual mode switch. These units are sealed (more or less) and just about any effort to open them or alter them in any way destroys them. <snip>
Yaesumofo

Ok, I just wanted to check. Being unfamiliar with the McClicky/E2S, I thought that they might be interchangeable and would make for an easy 2-stage switch when running the stock Arc board (non-1st Run). I haven't had the time to complete my FluPIC mods yet, so that's why I was asking about the McE2S. Since you've confirmed that it won't work it seems like I'll need to finish up my mods sooner rather than later.