Personalizing D10/EX10, NOT upgrade

[TOTC]

But what ever you do don't put the powder in your hair gel/wax or any where near your pillows or sheets and blankets because its a b!@tch to get off.

I learned this on the night i received my glow powder.

HAhahahaha, wanted to be the big hit at the club?

Sounds like a fun prank to pull on someone... the color of the powder would easily mix into a lot of hair products without notice. Then the lights go out....

 

[Centropolis]

I have GITD sheet on the button. Works well, glows all night, much cheaper than Trit. Will eventually mix some GITD epoxy and put it in a circle around the button. The glow sheet I have now has wimpy glue and only lasts a month or two before it falls off.

When you do mix that GITD epoxy project....can you also document the steps and share them with all of us. I would like to know how you do that. I've seen pictures of people doing that but never found out what to bought to get the right mix.

 

[Centropolis]

A word of advice to the dude buying glow powder.I did the same thing and thought it would be fun/cool.Glow powder is cool on torches and keys.

But what ever you do don't put the powder in your hair gel/wax or any where near your pillows or sheets and blankets because its a b!@tch to get off.

I learned this on the night i received my glow powder.

Back on the topic now,:thumbsup:i put a gitd o-ring on my EX10.(as you can see in mt display pic)

What size of o-ring is that between the and the reflector?

 

[cave dave]

The GITD o-rings are all pretty much useless. I wouldn't trust them to be as waterproof as the stock and they don't glow long. The powder mixed with epoxy is the best way to go. Do a search.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Well you want to know, here you are.

Glow Inc's V10 Ultra Green Glow Powder and Devcon 2-ton epoxy mix from Walmart.

DON"T use anything faster setting. Mix the epoxy in a plastic baggie then pour in the powder. Use as much powder as you like but you will reach a point where the mix gets sludgy and gritty, then you have gone too far and need a bit more epoxy.
It is not a precise operation, you just have to try it and get a feel for it. Don't be afraid of it!
When you have it all mixed up in the baggie cut off the corner of the baggie and squeeze for application. Don't touch it for at least 2 hours and it will look pretty good.
The key to a good glow job is in the prep work and steady hands. If you screw up just be sure to remove it before it sets up totally. You will feel the mix heat up as the reaction happens that solidifies it.
Don't take too long for application.............

 

[Centropolis]

Well you want to know, here you are.

Glow Inc's V10 Ultra Green Glow Powder and Devcon 2-ton epoxy mix from Walmart.

DON"T use anything faster setting. Mix the epoxy in a plastic baggie then pour in the powder. Use as much powder as you like but you will reach a point where the mix gets sludgy and gritty, then you have gone too far and need a bit more epoxy.
It is not a precise operation, you just have to try it and get a feel for it. Don't be afraid of it!
When you have it all mixed up in the baggie cut off the corner of the baggie and squeeze for application. Don't touch it for at least 2 hours and it will look pretty good.
The key to a good glow job is in the prep work and steady hands. If you screw up just be sure to remove it before it sets up totally. You will feel the mix heat up as the reaction happens that solidifies it.
Don't take too long for application.............

After you finish mixing the epoxy, it is 'soft' enough so that when I pour in the circle, it'll settle itself totally flat eventually before drying?

I will try to find that stuff at Walmart....but Walmarts in Canada sells very different brands. We also don't have those nice Coleman CREE products in our Walmarts.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Devcon 2-ton can be bought on-line as well.

Yes after a quick mix it will be soft enough to flow into the circle and settle in nicely. Just don't mix too vigirously or you will get bubbles.

 

[shadeone]

heres some added glow-rings i just got... the one around the center is very tight and i can expect it to break very shortly with some average use im guessing... the one in the back piston area fits perfect and is glued down just in case. doesnt glow very long though... these glow-rings were bought from the cpf marketplace and i dont remember waht sizes i used. i just got the one-of-each sample pack and used what fit!

shade

 

[ruriimasu]

shadone,
those are nice. how long did they glow? i used GITD paint from a local store and made a mess out of my D10. I am now waiting for my order of GITD powder from glowinc. :scowl:

 

[shadeone]

well i havent charged them using sunlight since ive been in my nice cool basement all afternoon and now its dark...

i charged them using a 75 watt lightbulb for 30 seconds and they seem to glow for about a minute and then fade fast. still looks cool though..

shade

 

[yaesumofo]

You could have a slot milled in the bottom of the piston for a tritium insert. McGizmo did this. A clip would make a nice addition.
I don't recommend gold plating because you would have to strip the anodizing and this would cause the light to malfunction.
You could remove the piston from the body of the light use some liquid polymer clay mixed with Glow In the dark powder and bake i. This would be a very nice GITD option.
Yaesumofo

 

[yaesumofo]

As an experiment I broke out my Liquid polymer clay strontium aluminate mixture. I removed the piston, the O-ring, and wiped all lube off of the body.
I carefully put a few drops of the GITD mixture into the Groove between the inside edge of the tail section and the inner lip where the piston button is exposed.

I baked the part for 15 minutes and removed it from the oven. Let it cool. re assembled the light and now I have a D10 that has a tail glowing feature.
It looks like this:

Yaesumofo

 

[ruriimasu]

Yaesumofo,
thats nice. i wanted to do when my GITD powder arrives. but i will be using epoxy with the powder. did you put any white base before you dripped the mixture to the light? is there a need to do it? i was told by a local vendor who sells GITD paint that i needed a white base for the paint, and i used correction fluid and made a mess out of my D10.

 

[TOTC]

White base makes a big difference in my experience. I used GlowInc products a while back on some old Fenix lights I had to make a tailcap donut similar to above. The first one used no base but on the second I used a white base. The difference is very noticeable in brightness as well as how smooth the glow is (the one without the base looks grainier).

I just used white-out (correction fluid) for my white base and it worked fine for me. Not sure why it was such a mess for you but I had success with it on my Fenix.

 

[ruriimasu]

I did my epoxy-powder mix. i used a 5min devcon epoxy and let it cured for 8hrs. it is still kind of sticky. could it be because i used too little amount of hardener? i used 2 drops of resin to 1 drop of hardener as i thought it might dry slower so i had more time to handle it.

 

[NetGod3Com]

ruriimasu:

Resin and Hardener should be mixed in equal portions, If you need more working time, just buy a different grade of epoxy.

 

[greenLED]

I use darkzero's GID+epoxy recipe for all my GID mods.

Not on D/EX10's, but I shared the same concept of making glow rings around the switch button in this post.

A couple of pics:

 

[yaesumofo]

I never have. I don't use epoxy much.
I use a mixture of strontium aluminate and Liquid polymer clay.
If you get the mixture right after baking at just under 300 you get a nice hard GITD rings around the switch.

I know I am probably the only person out here who uses this technique.
What can I say I am not a big fan of playing with Epoxies.
The stuff I use has no smell is non toxic for the most part and is hard in 15 minutes. and I am not working against a clock it only goes hard when I bake it.
For me it is win win stuff.
Oh and I can remove it pretty easily too.
one big negative is that it doesn't wear as hard as epoxy. That said I have found that weather it is the stuff I use or epoxy I don't use it in hi wear areas, so it isn't an issue.
To answer the question in my applications I have never even heard of a white base application. sounds like just another step and more work.
Yaesumofo


quote=ruriimasu;2566614]Yaesumofo,
that's nice. i wanted to do when my GITD powder arrives. but i will be using epoxy with the powder. did you put any white base before you dripped the mixture to the light? is there a need to do it? i was told by a local vendor who sells GITD paint that i needed a white base for the paint, and i used correction fluid and made a mess out of my D10.[/quote]

 

[ruriimasu]

ruriimasu:

Resin and Hardener should be mixed in equal portions, If you need more working time, just buy a different grade of epoxy.

hi.. what will happen if i use less hardener? where i live, they do very limited types of clear epoxy and devcon 5mins was all i could find. there was a 20mins but it was 20mins.

 

[StarHalo]

Any particular reason you guys aren't just using the glow paint? It's made from the same material and has the same glow/brightness rating, I'd think it'd be a lot easier to just paint the interior grooves..