problem with fenix L2D

[bananajoe]

Hi to everybody! I am new in CFP, and I hope this huge resource can help me with a problem that disappoints me very much.

I own a fenix L2D (first series, those with 135 lumens max output) and it worked finely until the day one of the AA batteries poured some acid out. Since that day, after cleaning everything inside the L2D body, the Turbo mode doesn't work correctly.

I wrote Fenix people to ask what to do, and they suggested me to clean with alcohol. This therapy works so-and-so because i have to be very precise in positioning the head to get the right result.

Anyway, I fear the acid damaged the metal ring (smaller thickness than original) on the driver base that should make contact with the flashlight body when the head is completely screwed tight.

I tried to use a piece of aluminium foil (the one you use in the kitchen...) to test if a correct contact was the problem, and the test was succesful: with a proper contact restored, it works fine.

Do you have any suggestion about how to restore the metal ring thickness and still mantain the 2 operation modes capacity of the flashlight?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Niconical]

Normally for such a situation, there are the usual things that would be suggested. In this case though, you've done everything right already.

I would suggest that you make sure the contact in the head and the end of the body tube are completely clean and smooth and dry.

Then you could try using this product on the contacts.

Sorry that's all I have to offer, but like I said, you have already done all the right things!

Finally...... :welcome:

 

[MWClint]

You could try to build the thickness back up carefully with some solder and then clean it up with a small file.

 

[jankj]

Anyway, I fear the acid damaged the metal ring (smaller thickness than original) on the driver base that should make contact with the flashlight body when the head is completely screwed tight.

I tried to use a piece of aluminium foil (the one you use in the kitchen...) to test if a correct contact was the problem, and the test was succesful: with a proper contact restored, it works fine.

Hm... try finding a metal disk (metal ring) with inner/outer diameter about the same as the body. The disk should slide easy into the head (i.e. just a fraction smaller than the threads). This may or may not do the trick... At least the turbo mode should work OK when the head is thightened.

One possible side effect is that the disk may rattle when the head is loosened. This may or may not cause the turbo mode to flicker on/off.

Another possibility: I assumed you have cleaned the top of the body? Sand it carefully, removing any residue on the surface, but not the metal itself.

 

[crazyk4952]

I believe most major battery manufacturers will replace a device that their batteries damaged if you can prove that it was not your fault. It may be worth visiting the battery manufacturer's website to see if they have such a guarantee.

 

[Marduke]

Several options

1) Explain what happened and ask the battery manufacturer to cover the damage caused by the junk cells. They will most likely send you a check for the cost of the light.

2) Make sure that metal contact ring AND the top end of the body tube is completely clean. Some residue may need scraped off.

3) If #2 fails, you could place a very small ring of solder onto the PCB. Make sure none of it contacts the threads, as you will loose all the lower modes if that happens.


And for all cases, do NOT use alkaline cells in high quality lights. They will not perform as well, and leaking will cause problems as you have seen. A good light deserves good batteries. I recommend getting set up with some LSD (low self discharge) NiMH cells and a basic smart charger. You will be much happier with the improved runtime, brightness, and economy (much cheaper than using alkaline cells). A basic LSD NiMH + smart charger setup is only $15-25, and pays for itself the first 10 times you use it.

 

[Search]

Also, if you stay in contact with the place you bought the light from and continue to go through the steps to see if it's fixable, the warranty will replace it if you and they are unsuccessful.

The Fenix warranty covers this I'm almost 100% sure. I only skimmed. Use it, break it, ask questions later.

 

[bananajoe]

Thank you everybody! I am grateful to all these suggestions.
A couple more explanations about my situation: the warranty expired already, so I have to all by myself. Moreover, I see veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeery low success probability in asking for refunding to the cell manufacturer since in my country (Italy) there are loose conditions on such manufacturer/customer things...

Anyway, I'm trying some options, most likely a metal ring, just to try and see if it works. Perhaps I can have access to some "conductive glue" (I discovered this morning a friend may have it because he works in instrumentation electronics :twothumbs )

Let's see

 

[Jarl]

Fenix will charge for parts beyond 1 year, though this shouldn't be that much (haha?). Conductive glue may or may not work- for something to be labelled as conductive, it doesn't really need to have that good a conductivity. IMO a ring of solder is probably your best bet.

 

[Marduke]

For future reference, it may be best to purchase from dealers who offer an unlimited lifetime warranty, such as Fenix-Store

 

[bananajoe]

Fenix people are very kind and assistance service is wonderful... :twothumbs
They gave me the information I needed, they explained me the correct way of using sandpaper to restore contacts (the one I used was wrong and so the head-side of the body surface wasnt' perfect as it should have been ) and now my L2D seems to recover from its illness ...

Thanks a lot again to everyone!