proper wire to use for DIY LED projects ?

[dieselsmoke]

I'm looking to mod a couple LED torches and build a few bike lights. I already have the emitters, controllers, and housing materials, but need some insight on the proper wire to use.

In one case, I'm using a buckpuck which is pre-wired with 24 guage stranded. I've had a really hard time finding this wire, but do have some 22g solid strand from Radio Shack. Is it ok to go downstream from the smaller 24g to the larger 22g to and between the stars ?

Which is preferred for such work, solid or stranded ? I don't really understand the proper situations to use either.

And what about the insulator material ? I've seen reference to silicon being the best due to heat tolerance, but can't find such wire anywhere.

Thanks for assisting with my naive questions.

 

[Glock27]

Stranded wire will carry more current. 24 gauge stranded will carry the came current as 22 gauge solid. Stranded wire is usually more flexible.
G27

 

[greenLED]

"proper" depends on what you're doing. For the vast majority of LED mods we do, something in the 22-24 AWG range works fine.

I got spoiled and started using teflon wire a while back. It takes practice to strip it cleanly, but since the sheath doesn't melt while soldering it's really nice (nicer than silicone coated wire). There's somebody in the Custom BST section selling it, or check eBay.

I'm looking to mod a couple LED torches and build a few bike lights. I already have the emitters, controllers, and housing materials, but need some insight on the proper wire to use.

In one case, I'm using a buckpuck which is pre-wired with 24 guage stranded. I've had a really hard time finding this wire, but do have some 22g solid strand from Radio Shack. Is it ok to go downstream from the smaller 24g to the larger 22g to and between the stars ?

Which is preferred for such work, solid or stranded ? I don't really understand the proper situations to use either.

And what about the insulator material ? I've seen reference to silicon being the best due to heat tolerance, but can't find such wire anywhere.

Thanks for assisting with my naive questions.

 

[Justin Case]

The much better flexibility of stranded wire, mentioned by Glock27, IMO is very important. Solid wire has a tendency to fatigue and break (or at least weaken at the bend) when you move the wire around during soldering, assembly, etc.

Teflon insulated wire is the way to go, IMO, as mentioned by greenLED. The Radio Shack wire probably uses PVC insulation, which has a tendency to shrink/melt as soon as the wire sees the heat of the soldering iron unless you are quick with the iron. That makes neat soldering a chore and also tends to expose bare wire, which is undersirable. Stripping the teflon insulation is easy -- I use a sharp knife to cut the jacket and then just pull.

24 and 26 gauge fit the holes in the Sandwich Shoppe drivers. 22 gauge is too big. 24 gauge sometimes is too big for some of the holes.

Search CPF for "mudman cj". He sells teflon-insulated, stranded wire for a good price.

 

[dieselsmoke]

Thanks guys, I'll follow up with the teflon sheathed wire. I had the same experience with the PVC jackets shrinking in the past once the iron is applied.