PT Apex mod?

[ArisaemaDracontium]

I am looking to make my PT Apex a bit brighter. I have read on these forums about people modding their Apexes to make an "Apex +" so it sounds like its been done before. Can someone explain how this mod is done?

Can I use a Seoul P4 emitter like the one used in the EOS? Can the Apex just drive this emitter harder or is there another emitter I need to look at?

It looks like the emitter in the Apex is bonded to the heat sink how do I go about removing and replacing it? Also, can I simply use the stock optic or do I need to replace it with a reflector?

Thanks!

 

[peteybaby]

Hi there. Look at this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=141392&page=2&pp=30

And look for a detailed procedure from "Meduza".

The only things I would add are:

- Be VERY careful handling the SSC P4. I damaged mine physically by accidentally lifting/deforming the gummy dome lens on it while trying to press the emitter into place with needlenose pliers. I had to order another emitter and wait another week or two. :sigh:

- I asked a bunch of people who had already performed this mod whether they used thermal compound (like white grease) or thermal epoxy (like white grease that dries into a hard epoxy glue), because I couldn't decide which one to use. Epoxy supposedly gives you better electrical isolation than the compound. I didn't get a conclusive answer, so I tried just re-using the thermal compound that was on the original emitter. My first emitter swap failed, but I'm about 80% confident that it was because of the damaged gummy dome. However, there's still a chance that the failure was due to the un-isolated P4 emitter. Therefore, as long as you are pretty confident that you won't make any mistakes, and you're pretty sure you won't want to replace the emitter a 2nd time, I'd suggest using the thermal epoxy. That's what I used for my 2nd attempt, and everything's working fine now.

I should add that I was as careful as a surgeon the 2nd time I did the swap.

 

[cave dave]

There are a couple threads on modding the Apex. Do a search

In the pic you can see where the emitter is. It doesn't seem to be glued down, just a bit of thermal paste under it.
1) just pull it up and desolder it

2) trim or bend tabs of new SSC P4 emitter up, you don't want them to touch the metal heatsink

3) If you are going to use a reflector cut small plastic alignment tabs off. These are the little nubs at 3 and 9o'clock in the plastic around the emitter and fit into the holes of the optic holder and will interfere with the seating of the reflector.

4) make sure polarity is correct (black wire goes to side with notch). Solder the new emitter in place. Quickly test emitter.

5) Clean heatsink and put a light even layer of thermal epoxy on the bottom of the new emitter and push it back in place. Don't push too hard you want a thin layer to isolate electrical contact of emitter pad and heatsink (some debate if this is true, make layer as thin as possible)

6) Reflector is optional depending on the beam you want. There are several to choose from see PhotonFanatic sell posts.

7) Put reflector in and make sure it seats well. (see #3) (might want to do this before you glue anything.)

8) I had to glue reflector in place with homemade legs since its undersized. This is the hardest part.

9) To really pimp it out add tritium vials around the reflector or between the 5mm LEDs

 

[cave dave]

Note:
You can buy the P4 star, reflector, and thermal epoxy from one place. Photonfanatic, Also the sandwich shoppe.

 

[peteybaby]

There are a couple threads on modding the apex. Do a search

In the pic you can see where the emitter is. It doesn't seem to be glued down, just a bit of thermal paste under it.
1) just pull it up and desolder it

2) trim or bend tabs of new SSC P4 emitter up, you don't want them to touch the metal heatsink

3) cut small plastic alignment tabs off. These are in the plastic around the emitter and fit into the holes of the optic holder and will interfere with the seating of the reflector.

4) make sure polarity is correct and solder the new emitter in place. Quickly test emitter.

5) Clean heatsink and put a light even layer of thermal epoxy on the bottom of the new emitter and push it back in place. Don't push too hard you want a thin layer to isolate electrical contact of emitter pad and heatsink (some debate if this is true)

6a) Reflector is optional depending on the beam you want. There are several to choose from see PhotonFanatic sell posts.

6b) Put reflector in and make sure it seats well. (see #3) (might want to do this before you glue anything.)

7) I had to glue reflector in place with homemade legs since its undersized.

I agree with 1, 2, 4, and 5. Good points. #3 I didn't do because I just re-used the stock optic.

 

[ArisaemaDracontium]

Thanks everybody. I ordered the parts from PhotonFanatic and modified my light tonight. Went surprisingly well for only my second light modding experience (the first one being a mere 30 minutes earlier!) Special thanks to 'cave dave' for you're images and note about the polarity. I had initially started putting it together backwards, without you I would have ruined the emitter!

Last week I also added about 3 feet of cable between the lamp and the battery pack. With the significantly brighter light and the ability to store the battery pack in a backpack/camelbak or even a butt pocket, this light has become significantly more useful to me.

thanks again,

 

[bendlite]

... I also added about 3 feet of cable between the lamp and the battery pack.

What connectors did you use? I found some assemble-them-yourself connectors at Radio S**t. I was not very impressed with them.

thanks, John

 

[ArisaemaDracontium]

I too had thought about using plugs so I could install and remove this extension whenever I wanted. But in the end i had enough parts laying around the house to just get it done, and I couldn't think of a situation where I would need to remove the extra cable, so I just spliced it.

I used these little aluminum connectors my father had given me (he does some electrical work at his job). They are small tubes about 1/2" long with a divider in the middle as well as a hole.

You strip a bit of the insulation off, one of the wires, say the positive wire coming out of the headlamp stick it in this Al tube and crimp it in place. Do the same for the wire you're splicing in, sticking it in the other end of the tube. Then I dropped a little sodder in the little hole in the middle to make it a bit more secure. Finally slide some heat shrink wrap over it for insulation. Repeat for the negative wire. Then shrink wrap over the whole thing. Repeat for the other end of the spliced in wire.

Pretty crude, but it works. So far it's been totally solid.

 

[cave dave]

I got around to comparing my modded Apex to some other lights. In a bounce test the modded Apex is brighter than my moded HDS which is in turn brighter than a Novatac 120P. It is also as bright as a stock Stenlight S7.

Wow! If the 120P numbers can be relied on that means its putting out ~130 lm out the front.

 

[NoFair]

Mine does seem quite a bit brighter than a Fenix P3D

Tint is warm and in my view perfect. Got the emitters from Photonfanatic

I tested my emitters and put the best one in my HDS and one in each of my Apex'. The Pro does have slightly more throw than the normal one, but that might just be because of wear on the plastic lens on the AA one which is one of the first once released.

Sverre

 

[Avatar28]

9) To really pimp it out add tritium vials around the reflector or between the 5mm LEDs

Where (and can) you find those in the US? I may try ordering the parts to mod my apex this weekend and that would make a cool addition. I've not been especially happy with the color temp of the quad LEDs on mine but as you have noted before, the Luxeon is a bit to spotty. Also where did you order a diffuser from? I am going to be ordering a P3D (most likely) that I will be able to for throw if I need it so I would rather have a nice, floody main light on the Apex.

 

[cave dave]

When you order the LED from Photonfanatic get both a smooth and stippled reflector. Try the new LED with the various combos to see which you will like. The new LED will produce a different pattern even with the stock optic. (It has a larger die area so the beam spreads out more)

 

[Avatar28]

When you order the LED from Photonfanatic get both a smooth and stippled reflector. Try the new LED with the various combos to see which you will like. The new LED will produce a different pattern even with the stock optic. (It has a larger die area so the beam spreads out more)

Would one size reflector give me more flood than the other?

 

[mountainpenguin]

I did this last week. Not tried the modded apex underground yet but to be honest i am not sure i can see much difference. The tint is much whiter though

 

[cave dave]

Would one size reflector give me more flood than the other?

Could you define what you mean by "more flood"?

A reflector definitely has a wider spill angle then the stock optic for instance.

The textured reflector has more light in the corona, a less intense spot, and a smoother transition from spot to spill, but the spill angle is basically the same as a smooth reflector.

 

[Avatar28]

Could you define what you mean by "more flood"?

A reflector definitely has a wider spill angle then the stock optic for instance.

The textured reflector has more light in the corona, a less intense spot, and a smoother transition from spot to spill, but the spill angle is basically the same as a smooth reflector.

As in there is less of a spot and a lot more spill around it. Basically less range but it lights up the area close to you better (sort of how the 5mm LEDs on the Apex do).

 

[RGB_LED]

Last week I also added about 3 feet of cable between the lamp and the battery pack. With the significantly brighter light and the ability to store the battery pack in a backpack/camelbak or even a butt pocket, this light has become significantly more useful to me.

ArisaemaDracontium, I'm also looking at doing this mod on my Apex and have been scouring the forum for information on extending the cable in order to store the pack in a hydration pack for mountain biking.

I was thinking of cutting the cable before the battery pack, using automotive clips, then adding an extension cable so that I have the option of using the headlamp with the headband but also using an extension cable in order to hold the pack in a hydration pack. Just curious to know how you added your extension cable. Do you have any pics?

 

[NoFair]

As in there is less of a spot and a lot more spill around it. Basically less range but it lights up the area close to you better (sort of how the 5mm LEDs on the Apex do).

If you put scotch tape over the lens you acheive just this effect. Cheap, effective and reversable.

The Seoul led gives a slightly more floody beam than the Luxeon with the stock optic as well.

Sverre

 

[Avatar28]

If you put scotch tape over the lens you acheive just this effect. Cheap, effective and reversable.

The Seoul led gives a slightly more floody beam than the Luxeon with the stock optic as well.

Sverre

I was thinking about trying the scotch tape idea. My current thinking is to convert the main LED of the Apex into a pure flood light, or at least as much as I can manage, and then to use a pair of L2Ds or P3Ds mounted one one each side of my helmet to provide more mid and long range light, probably running them in high mode for the most part.

 

[NoFair]

I was thinking about trying the scotch tape idea. My current thinking is to convert the main LED of the Apex into a pure flood light, or at least as much as I can manage, and then to use a pair of L2Ds or P3Ds mounted one one each side of my helmet to provide more mid and long range light, probably running them in high mode for the most part.

If you remove the optic totally you get a pure flood beam. You loose a bit of light since the led is recessed a bit behind the lens, but it is a quick and easy thing to do.
I'd try this or tape first.

Sverre