Pushing stock SF tailcaps in 'Lumens War'

akula88

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I'm sure this subject had been answered in a post in some other threads here or at modified lights sub-forum.
However, I can't find any definitive direction regarding these issues.



I'm trying to get a P60 drop-in and/or maybe mod'd/custom E-series head, how much drive/push (Amps) can these standard/stock tailcaps take ?? :
* 6P/9P-series : Z41, Z58/Z59
* E-series : Z52, Z61, Z68.

This may not be limited to just a single LED, but maybe triplex or quads.

If tailcaps are upgraded with McClickies (probably from Lumens Factory), what improvement factor do I expect?
 
Z41 and Z52 are twisties and they can take huge current that goes throgh them.
All other clickies are safe up to 2-3A.
LF upgrade is much better than stock clicky


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I found this old thread after I made the initial post :

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?363349-Surefire-etc-what-s-the-diff-between-SF-Z59-and-McClicky

which included this very informative response from ElectronGuru
Many excellent replies here. A bit more info and summary:

The McClicky switch was designed to retrofit the original twisty only E series tailcap.

It was only later adapted to other uses, including the Z41 by way of kit, creating the McClicky Kit

The Kit began life as alternative to buying a whole new Z59 for the many lights that came stock with Z41

At the time, Z41 were quite cheep, as everyone wanted to replace them. This has since reversed.

The resulting assembly is smaller than the Z59 and works with other tailcaps that are modeled on the Z41.

The way the kit compresses the boot against the back of the cap is more water tight than caps that install the switch from the outside.

Most switches route power through the same spring that pushes back against the button. The McClicky spring pushes a solid bar, that itself conducts the current (think draw bridge). This provides greater amperage and less resistance than switches several times larger. However, even high wattage bulbs won't tax the Z59 that hard, provided the voltage is high (9+). Where switches get into trouble is when fewer batteries are pushing less volts, creating more amps.

Lockout is a function of cutting off power (current flow), when the kit disconnects from the bottom of the body (unscrew). This depends on good coating on the inside of the cap to then prevent power from then flowing cap threads <-> body threads.

Again -- how hot can we push the stock before frying the switch? Can it handle 2.8A draw or more? how about the McClickies?
 
I know Oveready uses McClicky's in their custom E series Triples and BOSS lights, as does Tana. Okluma, Hanko, pretty much any of the custom builders as well. I remember reading 3 amps was the comfortable constant duty limit somewhere. If you need a forward clicky that will take more than that on a regular basis, maybe shoot Vinh an email and see if he can set you up. He does a forward clicky with a spring bypass, I don't know whose switch it is though.
 
Based on additional research, OR's offering specified a guarantee of up to 5 amps; while Lumens Factory products page did confirm that the McGizmo switch can take up to 6A current..

In a 2010 post, EG gave a statistics report on the McClicky :
...

With 10 months of data (Nov 09), 900+ units are now in the wild, with 4 reported failures. 1 was dead on arrival, 2 were blown with a 10 amp load, and the last was somehow crushed during installation. We've not heard of any failures during use.

I don't know about contractors, but many are in the hands of LEO's in USA, Canada, UK, Spain, Australia, Malaysia, Greece, Israel, Brazil, Russia, and Japan. Kits and preconfigured tailcaps have been shipped directly and indirectly to both Iraq and Afghanistan.

I'm not sure if there were progressive updates along the years to improve the load capability of the switch, considering the improvement on circuit and emitters, as well as the availability of high-drain 18650s.
 
I think that a general rule of keeping (continuous) amps below 2A for stock SureFire (non-Judco/Kroll) clicky, and below 5A for OEM McClickie is wise.

Above that, would be stock SureFire Twisty, FS54 / RS54 (or other FET-based switches) , and finally ZeroRez (in probably increasing order)

I think the Judco / Kroll based switches (including the SureFire versions) probably fit somewhere between those two groups, but haven't seen as much good data for those.
 
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The BOSS pushes 5 amps and I remember reading from oveready that was about the practical limit for the mcclicky.
 
Above that, would be stock SureFire Twisty, FS54 / RS54 (or other FET-based switches) , and finally ZeroRez (in probably increasing order)

Where can we get a practical FS54 / RS54 (or other FET-based switches)? The only thread I found was from Vinh's subforum, and seems too complex to install. Is there a turnkey replacement part for the innards of the Z41?

-------
Am I correct to understand that Z58/59 clicky-types on U2 and newer 1" lights offers lower Amp capacity vs a McClicky?

DSCF8995e_512_zpsrzbscy9a.jpg


Does this also applies to the smaller 3/4" lights (E-series) Z61/68 tailcaps vs McClicky module upgrades?
 
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There have been several makers of high-amp switch mods over the years, including VanIsleDSM, DellSuperman, and V54

Yes, Z58/Z59/Z61/Z68 are rated for less current than the OEM stock McClickie
 
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To put things in further perspective, the P91 and P61 Surefire lamp assembles draw well over 2 amps. I believe the last time I measure a P61 it was around 2.4A, and I think the P91 was closer to 2.7A, but I can't remember the P91 for certain. The Z58/Z59 clickies are designed to work with them. So I would expect their limits are at least 3A if not more. I think the Z49/Z48 clickies can handle even more than the Z59/Z58 clickies, though they are physically larger and have a heavier gauge spring.

I believe the limit of the Z57/Z61/Z68 (same internals) is about 2A. That is probably pushing it though for that switch. The MN03 is the highest current lamp in the E-series incan line and it draws about 1A similar to the P60 lamp assembly. The Z52 twisties are basically a block of metal with a the same gauge spring as the Z57, but appear to be made from a better spring steel. I don't really worry too much about their current ability and I don't know if they have any actual rating. Someone like Mark from LF would probably know that. Z52's have always been solid for me. I suspect they can do a ton more amps than a McClicky.
 
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