q3 mod?

strideredc

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
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474
Location
UK
Dear all cpf'rs

I am new to moding but have a old nuwai q3 and was hoping to put a better led in it. Can someone tell me what I need to buy and from where and what kit I will need to do this. I have the usual soldering iron ect ect

And what gain in power could I expect to see?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

:)
 
First of all, Welcome to CPF!
The Q3 is relatively easy to open and easy to mod.

To open, you will need to use one or both of two methods: Either heat it to soften the bezel threadlock (usually by putting the head in a plastic bag and boiling it) then use insulating gloves to open it while still hot, or use strap wrenches. I used strap wrenches as it took less time, but you have to take some time to get them set up tightly so they will grip the head and bezel properly. It's not easy the first time, but just keep cinching the straps tight and you will get there. Putting rubber cement on the head greatly helps grip, then you can peel it of afterwards.

Once remove the bezel you will see a Luxeon star in the head and the back of the nice aluminum reflector in the bezel. You may have to unscrew a plastic retaining ring to get the light engine out. Once out, you will see it is easy to desolder two wires and replace the star with a new one.

Where to get stars? Look on the Dealers page, Group Buys, and Custom/Modified B/S/T. There are several members selling emitters and stars. Stars will be far easier to replace. High flux bin Luxeon3's will be a small improvement as Q3's are usually S-bin. U-bin will work nice.
<added> What bin do you have? Look at the back of the star, there will be a code starting with five letters. The first four are the bin code. In the Q3, the first letter will most likely be an S. That is the flux code for brightness. The later in the Alphabet, the brighter it will be for a given wattage.
Larger improvement will come from Cree XR-E or Seoul Semiconductor P4. If you find a star of what you want, then it will be relatively easy to replace and re-assemble.

Cree XR-E will most likely require you to grind a few tenths of a mm off the back of the reflector to fit and focus. Try without grinding first, then try grinding off a tiny amount at a time until you get what you want. Take too much off and you may have loss of contact problems and have to start shimming up to get battery contact again. You will need to unscrew the reflector from the bezel with snap ring pliers or thin tipped needle nose pliers inserted into the two holes you see on the back of the reflector, OR just grab the cylinder on the back of the reflector with regular pliers.

Seoul P4
is easier since it is more like a Luxeon light pattern, but you may find that removing 0.75mm from the back of the reflector still helps. Again, try grinding less first until you get what you like. Again, take too much off and you may have loss of contact problems and have to start shimming up to get proper battery contact.

Edison Optio Also makes a star something like the the Lux star that should work and put out as much light as the Cree XR-E and Seoul P4. Same install and mod steps as the Seoul.

There are lots of old threads about modding the Q3. Try looking using the Google search box at the top of every page. Many people have posted pictures, tips, and results.

Good luck!
 
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Thanks guys! I try to help others as much as I have benefitted from the knowledge here.

Should I have posted each paragraph in a seperate post to boost my post count? :grin2:
 
:crackup:LOL and willing to risk another post here to tell you how much that made me laugh.

OK, maybe I could contribute something since I have modded my Q3 extensively as well, but I don't wish to compete for most helpful here.

You will definitely see a big gain in output by upgrading the LED and the LED will even use a little less power because of the lower Vf. As far as which LED to choose, that depends a little on what you are after, since they tend to give different looking beams. I was drawn to the Seoul because I intend to have a Millermods Arc AAA Cree for flood and I wanted my second EDC to fill the other end of the ol' needs spectrum. So, the Cree will put out almost as much light with more in the spill. Most people find the spill very usefull and the throw to be about the same as the Lux III they retired. The Q3 has a reflector that works very well with either of these LEDs, though it doesn't maximize throw of the Seoul. I haven't seen much on the Edisons, and there are many more places I am aware of to purchase premium bin Seoul P4s or P4 bin Crees, so I would choose them for that alone.

Other things to consider when selecting the LED include:

-the need to prevent a metal reflector from shorting the Cree LED electrodes on top and frying the converter board,
-needing to clip the corners of a Cree emitter (if you choose not to use a star - mounting the LED directly to a big heat sink will keep it cooler),
-preventing the Seoul emitter from making electrical contact with the heat sink (again, not for stars),
-the more vulnerable lens on the Seoul LEDs.

I was worried about the gummy lenses, but I managed not to ruin mine. And another advantage to these mods is the potential for much longer runtimes if you have a low setting via converter board or two stage switch. I also recommend against running these lower Vf LEDs in direct drive with a 3.7V RCR123, and IIRC the stock Q3 board does just that on these higher voltage batteries. It would drive a P4 something like 50% over the upper limit given by Seoul for example.
 
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Nice addition mudman.

I added some bin info to my original post to be more complete.

Copied here:
Blindasabat said:
<added> What bin do you have? Look at the back of the star, there will be a code starting with five letters. The first four are the bin code. In the Q3, the first letter will most likely be an S. That is the flux code for brightness. The later in the Alphabet, the brighter it will be for a given wattage.
I don't know much about Cree and Seoul Semiconductor (SSC) bins, so I dared not add. All I do know is that P4 is warmer (more incan-like yellow than Cree P3, and P4 has sub-bins WC (coolest, more blu-ish) through WD, WG, and WH (warmest, most incan-like yellow).
Otherwise, ask who you are buying them from.
 
I don't have any Cree or SSC stars yet, so I haven't done that mod, but to give you an idea of what to expect from a mod, here is one pic with a stock Q3 (this one had an SYAL, I think) and one with the same Q3 with a TW0H star. From there, you could step up to a U bin Lux III then from there, you could step up to the Cree or SSC. Both of these shots are using fresh primary CR123 cells. There's an even bigger improvement going from primary to R123 cells and I would expect more of an improvement going from the TW0H to the SSC than from the SYAL to the TW0H.

Going from the stock SYAL on a primary to an SSC P4 on an R123 would be literally like night and day which is pretty impressive considering how many of us 'oldtimers' thought the stock Q3s were very usable when they first came out.

Stock%20Q3%20SYAL.jpg


Modded%20Q3%20TW0H.jpg
 
I received m Q3 from a seller here last week. I finally got around to doing it tonight.

Strap wrenches to break thread lock. Clean crap out of threads.

Unscrew black plastic ring with open needle nose pliers. Remove pill.

Desolder old star, Solder in a new SSC P4 Star from Photon Fanatic's Dealer buy.

Add thermal compound to the edge of the star where it meets the standoff.

Turn ring down snug but not tight.

Turn reflector toward Emitter. notice which way emitter is off-center. The "dot" in the SSC emitter I consider 12:00 for reference. Remove reflector, nudge star in the compensating direction. Recheck then tighten ring when happy.

Reinstall head tightly.

Done - Enjoy

No mod to the reflector was necessary. No shimming the emitter height. The star was as drop-in as it gets.
 
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glockboy said:
Here my 2 cent.
Boil the Q3 head to open it.
Get the Cree xre star.
Get the McR-17XR at http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_50_64&products_id=725
Replace the Lux with the Cree, take the Q3 reflector out and drop in the McR-17XR, tighten the head and you'll get the very bright Q3.

Won't the McR-20 fit in a Q3 as well? I was thinking of getting the Seoul version of this reflector from the Shoppe for more throw...but not if it won't fit!
 
Not sure about the Mc reflector, but the IMS20 reflector definately makes it more throw-oriented.
 
thanks to all!!!! fantastic response!
i will let you know how i get on
thanks again
matt
 
I am still waiting on the good Cree star for my Q3. It may provide better throw than Seoul. And Seoul works better on Mag reflector.

I tried mini mag lens on Q3 but found it too big. I wonder if it can be grinded down. Has anyone done it, and does it take long? Also it is about 30% thinner so the star has to be pushed forward.
 
moraino, the stock Q3 reflector will work extremely well with the XRE after slight modification. What you'll need to do is file down the small end in order for the XRE metal ring to slide up into the reflector.

Pics and measurements for focussing the XRE (emitters and stars) are detailed here.

Happy modding!
 
mosport,

Thanks for the thread you posted a while ago. It is a very uniq method of providing sort of variable height for the heatsink support. Great brain.

You mention the lens of 22.2mm x 1.5mm compared to my mini Mag glass lens of 22.5mm x 0.8mm. Mine doesn't fit. Do you remember where to get yours as I am reluctant to grind down mine to fit. I am too lazy. Thanks.
 
Moraino, you might have luck finding a 22.1-2mm mineral crystal lens at the watch/jewellery kiosk/store at the local mall.

Many of the small watch places carry a full stock of all the common sized watch crystals and will often offer "on the spot" scratched crystal replacement service when you are there getting your old watch battery replaced.

Bring the Q3 bezel in with you so they can find the best fitting lens.
 

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