Question for you guys who pot electronics

[munkybiz_9881]

I have a board driver that is cracked and broke some solder traces. I can repair it, but need to re-enforce the board so it wont flex anymore.



Can I pot the board with standard 30 min epoxy? or is 30 min epoxy too conductive?



All I need to do is add strength to the board, no thermal conductivity is needed



Thanks in advance

 

[shao.fu.tzer]

I can't believe no one has answered this... I would say you're fine unless there's some kind of metal content in the epoxy - IE - don't use conductive epoxy - which brings me to a question that I've been mulling over in my head for approximately 3 minutes - does anyone here have any experience with conductive epoxy? I regularly quick fix things with aluminum tape when I don't feel like heating up the soldering iron or when I'm experimenting and don't want to damage components by excessive soldering and desoldering. So I started thinking... What about conductive epoxy as an alternative to solder? Would the conductance be too low?

 

[ironhorse]

I have used conductive epoxy at work.
If you can, avoid it.

 

[Rej]

I have used JB Weld( JB Quick & Regular) on our Powder Coating High voltage (85KV) - Low Amps (100ua) boards & HV Mulitpliers with No problems -> it is NON-Conductive electrically in these conditions anyways, and extremely strong.

 

[VidPro]

i donno if you would really call what i have done, POT or just make a mess that cannot be undone.
but i would far rather use JB now than clear epoxy, even though the JB non kwik can have a lot of metal it in, has not been a problem.
the clear, fails many different ways, but when it is making ice bricks (led blocks) and stuff it is the only way to go, all yellowed and bla, even then there must be far better epoxies than the stuff that comes in the normal stores.
that clear stuff falls off, bows and bends , sinks, and everything that can go wrong does, then over time it doesnt hold anything either , cant reallly figure out what it IS for