Ra Clicky + High CRI led ***Done w/Pics***

[discoverEDC]

This Friday my brand new Ra Clicky will be going under the soldering iron... I like the new high CRI Seoul emitters and I'm willing to loose total output for better color rendering. I have finally adapated to the 4000 CCT as well. Wish me luck on a successful operation.

Walt


Operation complete and the patient is doing fine :naughty:

A couple of notes: As you will notice from the beamshots the output drops. The increase in color rendering was worth it to me. I await higher output high CRI emitters in the future.
Additionally, chances are good that you will destroy the emitter that came with the light if you try this :green: The emitter is almost force fit or press fit into a pocket that sits on top of the heatsink with thermal paste under it. The force of the press fit is such that it is very hard to get out. Also, I was very reluctant to scratch the anno under the emitter by prying.

Pics follow, enjoy:

Regards,
Walt

 

[Kid9P]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

Man, you got some BIG ONES buddy

BEST OF LUCK on the mod.
Make sure to take lots of pics of the process for us :thumbsup:

 

[orcinus]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

I like the new high CRI Seoul emitters...

Wha? Where? When? How? Cost?
Did i miss something? :duh2:

Edit: Nvm, found it. How exactly do you plan on recalibrating your Clicky? They've got completely different Vf and a much lower forward current. Not to mention the completely different optical properties and beam angle.

 

[tebore]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

I take it he's not going to recalibrate it.

You're gonna document your every step in big and clear pictures right? :naughty:

 

[discoverEDC]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

No recalibration I'm hoping that burst will roughly equal 90-100 lumens. I'm after the color rendering, I don't like standard SSC's anymore. Hopefully in another year or two the high CRI led's will equal today's output.

I've replaced the emitters in an HDS Basic 42 and a Novatac 120P, I don't think this will be any worse. Easier actually, you don't have to remove the light engine. Take the bazel off, unscrew the reflector and the emitter is sitting in the open. Unsolder the leads and pull strait up, only thermal paste under there. Put more thermal paste in the heatsink pocket and set the new emitter in place (observing polarity) and resolder the leads. I'll take pics but I haven't posted them before.

Walt

 

[rolling]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

I did put a CRI93 Seoul in a ARC LSH-P. They are great.

 

[SaturnNyne]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

Wow, brave indeed. I'll be watching this with great interest. When you're done, could you please stop by my registry with a quick report? I'd like to add a little note on your entry.

 

[discoverEDC]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

Wow, brave indeed. I'll be watching this with great interest. When you're done, could you please stop by my registry with a quick report? I'd like to add a little note on your entry.

SaturnNyne,

Posted at the resistry

Regards,
Walt

 

[luxlover]

Operation complete and the patient is doing fine. :naughty:

A couple of notes: As you will notice from the beamshots, the output drops. The increase in color rendering was worth it to me. I await higher output high CRI emitters in the future.

Additionally, chances are good that you will destroy the emitter that came with the light if you try this. :green: The emitter is almost force fit or press fit into a pocket that sits on top of the heatsink with thermal paste under it. The force of the press fit is such that it is very hard to get out. Also, I was very reluctant to scratch the anno under the emitter by prying.

Regards,
Walt

Walt,
May I send flowers to the FULLY RECOVERED patient? You know the kind, very colorful for the patient with a new eye! She's looking good! I echo kid9p's comment in post #2, and add that you are a wildman, which is a good thing in this case.

The hotspot beams before and after are lean, mean and clean. Plenty of sidespill, too. Is that the property of the high CRI Seoul, or your exceptional photographic skills? That sidespill will do you well, when you sneak a peek up into your chimney for Santa on 12/24. Remember that Henry recommends a Clicky as an appropriate stocking stuffer!

With the measly cost of a Seoul emitter of high standing, it is better to kill the emitter than mar the surface of the heatsink. I am wondering if having a bare aluminum heatsink surface is beneficial, when applying a new film of thermal epoxy before inserting the emitter? I would think so!

Good show, Walt. I am not as crazy as you so I will just love my Clicky "just the way she is!"

Jeff

 

[tebore]

With the measly cost of a Seoul emitter of high standing, it is better to kill the emitter than mar the surface of the heatsink. I am wondering if having a bare aluminum heatsink surface is beneficial, when applying a new film of thermal epoxy before inserting the emitter? I would think so!

Only if you want to buy a new Clicky.

If you notice in this design the area where the emitter sits is part of the body. Not a separate module like in the old EDC. The Negative contact is also using the body of the light.

If you have scratch off the anno and attach the emitter to it you'll short it.

In most cases thermal epoxy has more thermal resistance than a thermal grease/paste. I'd rely on a mechanical retention method combined with thermal grease over an epoxy method.

 

[luxlover]

Only if you want to buy a new Clicky.

If you notice, in this design the area where the emitter sits is part of the body, not a separate module like in the old EDC. The negative contact is also using the body of the light.

If you have to scratch off the anno and attach the emitter to it, you'll short it.

In most cases thermal epoxy has more thermal resistance than a thermal grease/paste. I'd rely on a mechanical retention method combined with thermal grease, over an epoxy method.

tebore,
I am embarrassed to admit I didn't know that the heatsink IS the head housing and that thermal epoxy slows down electron flow more so than thermal paste! I know that the body IS the negative side of the circuit, but a brain fart had me talk about removing HAIII anyway. This will have an impact on my imminent 2C Mag mod with a Cree MC-E emitter. Thank you for the education.

Jeff

 

[tebore]

tebore,
I am embarrassed to admit I didn't know that the heatsink IS the head housing and that thermal epoxy slows down electron flow more so than thermal paste! This will have an impact on my imminent 2C Mag mod with a Cree MC-E emitter. Thank you for the education.

Jeff

It's the same thing with the Twisty. I studied the diagram Henry had up and that's what the screw is for it supplies the negative contact from the threads/head to the module.

A mod eh Jeff? Finally getting your hands dirty. I believe the MC-E's base is neutral. The P4 & P7 have their bases connected to the positive.
I'm waiting for my MC-Es to come in to finish my mod on a U2.

Well I should mention that heat transfer is different than the transfer of electrons. Epoxy depending if it's thick enough will be an electrical insulator but still allow heat through. In my years of usage/testing on computer parts and information collected from others who were in to overclocking, most consumer grade thermal epoxy will perform worst than consumer grade thermal grease/paste in transferring heat. Military/professional/aerospace grade stuff is different and is much much expensive and harder to get.

 

[luxlover]

It's the same thing with the Twisty. I studied the diagram Henry had up and that's what the screw is for it supplies the negative contact from the threads/head to the module.

A mod eh Jeff? Finally getting your hands dirty. I believe the MC-E's base is neutral. The P4 & P7 have their bases connected to the positive.
I'm waiting for my MC-Es to come in to finish my mod on a U2.

Your Ra fun fact about the philips head screw just learned me something new.

My hands will probably not get too dirty due to the mod. My local buddy nein166 will be the principal surgeon, with I as HIS assistant. I am wet behind the ears when it comes to modding, something you already know about me.

I don't think that the U2 will ever die, due to it's Hall effect transistor method of selecting the six outputs. Brilliant idea!

So how about YOU modding your Twisty or Clicky.....or both, since you are CPF's foremost Henry products modmeister?

Jeff

 

[tebore]

Your Ra fun fact about the philips head screw just learned me something new.

My hands will probably not get too dirty due to the mod. My local buddy nein166 will be the principal surgeon, with I as HIS assistant. I am wet behind the ears when it comes to modding, something you already know about me.

I don't think that the U2 will ever die, due to it's Hall effect transistor method of selecting the six outputs. Brilliant idea!

So how about YOU modding your Twisty or Clicky.....or both, since you are CPF's foremost Henry products modmeister?

Jeff

When I get the money to be able to buy a Twisty or Clicky I'll tell ya how it goes.

There's a twisty in the BST I want to snag but alas
Strangely after seeing the new clicky out I want to get a Twisty even after I told you it's not my cup of tea.

 

[luxlover]

When I get the money to be able to buy a Twisty or Clicky, I'll tell ya how it goes.

There's a twisty in the BST I want to snag, but alas!
Strangely after seeing the new Clicky, I want to get a Twisty even after I told you it's not my cup of tea.

The old "starving student" complaint, huh?

Hey, make up your mind what type of tea you like. You are confusing me! May I pick your brain, and have you tell me why the "flip-flop" .....in one word or less? Is it the extra 1/4" of length of the Clicky, surpassing your EDC upper length limit?

 

[SaturnNyne]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

SaturnNyne,
Posted at the resistry

Thanks Walt, got your entry updated. Nice job on the swap! Do you have any estimate on the output drop?

 

[luxlover]

Re: Ra Clicky + High CRI led

Thanks Walt, got your entry updated. Nice job on the swap! Do you have any estimate on the output drop?

Me too???

 

[luxlover]

Well I should mention that heat transfer is different than the transfer of electrons. Epoxy depending if it's thick enough will be an electrical insulator but still allow heat through. In my years of usage/testing on computer parts and information collected from others who were in to overclocking, most consumer grade thermal epoxy will perform worst than consumer grade thermal grease/paste in transferring heat.

Military/professional/aerospace grade stuff is different and is much much expensive and harder to get.

Thank you for your clarification of MY last lesson, tebore. :twothumbs

Jeff

 

[carlsjrman]

When I get the money to be able to buy a Twisty or Clicky I'll tell ya how it goes.

There's a twisty in the BST I want to snag but alas
Strangely after seeing the new clicky out I want to get a Twisty even after I told you it's not my cup of tea.

Hey tebore, PM me your address and I'll send you my 85-Tr. It's got a few dings, but I think the price is right.

Don't blame me, it's all goatee's fault.

 

[luxlover]

Hey tebore, PM me your address and I'll send you my 85-Tr. It's got a few dings, but I think the price is right.

Don't blame me, it's all goatee's fault.

Ho Ho Ho....CPF style. Nice gesture Carl.

Excuse me while I contact Goatee and see if he wants to be responsible for another act of kindness. :bow:

Jeff
Poor Person