Recently was testing MAG ROP HI -- Melting!

MatajumotorS

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Oct 24, 2006
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263
Location
Latvia
I turned it on wo reflector , (because i have pastic one for now), after 15 min it was hard to touch it, not mentioning the head, and after 26min i noticed, that the lamp is not in the center! I turned off, and as fas as i could dissasambled it..

what i got:

1175463360.jpg


The lamb buttom was flat too! it's petwer melted.

How are YOU running MAG ROP HI for 50 min ???
 
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the lamp button is a high temp solder.. not pewter.. though there is lead involved. This is interesting becasue I've heard of people here building ROPs with metal reflecotrs and glass lenses with the stock switch assembly. I imagine that with a good reflector some of the heat that melted your assembly should have been directed out the front rather than absorbed into the body. All the more reason to have a high temp lamp socket (bi pin or otherwise). Thanks for sharing.
 
Most of the heat of a hotwire goes out the front, which is why the Mag623s can set newspaper on fire. I would think that by using the light without a reflector, heat that normally goes out the front end was delivered to the switching mechanism. I think you will be all right with a metal reflector and a new switch.
 
I had spare switch witch i did insert. I will wait for arriving my metal reflector and will see what then will be...

If it will be melting too, i think i will change my "modding" to ceramic socket with wa1111 bipin bulb. Then 100% there will be nothing to melt...

Maby someone with ROP could share his experience?
 
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The people who usually run the ROP with the stock switch apply some Deoxit and progold to help keep resistance in the switch down as well as heat from the resistance.
 
I have made resistance mod, in my case switch melted because of heat of the lamp. As i mesured before and after resistance of the switch, it got smaller about 5 times after mod.
 
I have a ROP...here is my setup..

-Mag 2D ROP...
-2D maglite host
-Borofloat Lens
-Camless Medium stippled reflector (.377 hole)
-Fivemega 6AA to 2D battery adapter
-6AA 2600mAh rechargable NiMH Cells (Tenergy Brand)
-Pelican 3854 LOLA bulb


I have the stock switch assembly and never ahd a problem, although I never kept my ROP on more than 10 minutes bursts...I am goign to switch to a Pelican Hola bulb once I can get a hold of one, and I am going to switch out the stock switch assembly with a modded one for less resistance which I am going to get soon in a trade...

I think that with the reflector most of that heat is goingt out the front like people have already said...Or at least absorbed by the aluminum somewhat...
 
I've been using one of FiveMega's 4x 18650 Maglites with a ROP HI lamp in it, stock switch assembly, with no problems. BUT!!! I also replaced the little nylon insulating sleeve in the socket with a Teflon sleeve that was machined from solid Teflon rod.

No problems as of yet... that Teflon has a max working temp of around 500 degrees F., and seems to do a good job of keeping a lot of heat out of the plastic. I don't know how hot the coil spring gets though, or how much of that heat is being transmitted to the contacts in the switch, but nothing's showing signs of thermal stress in the switch and I've been inspecting it carefully.
 
The metal reflector is required to both conduct heat away from the bulb to the outer body. Also, it reflects the radiated heat from the bulb forwards, instead of towards the switch as happened in your case.

Did you use the plastic reflector too? Or a glass one?
 
i am using glass lens, i should have mop metal reflector from fivemega, but because of some "errors" it did not arrive in the first package.
 

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