Rechargeable E2DL

[cl0123]

Without thinking about the "higher" voltages of AW RCR123 cells, I inserted two into a new E2DL and left it on for about 10 to 15 minutes. The light still works and the center has a more intense white spot when compared to another light with a P60L. Then, while looking at the red SF cells I emptied onto the table, I realized that primes are 3.0v each and the rechargeables are a bit higher.

1. Am I killing the LED head on the E2DL by using higher voltages?
2. Single 17670 cell does not fit into the E2DL tube. Is there another size that may work? Would lower (provided by 1-cell) voltages also shorten the lives of the E2DL head?

This is my first E-series and for a two cell light, it feels even smaller and "handier" than a C2/6P. Although I did spend a little actually going through the instructions manual, I did do the inevitable of trying to shake the batteries out from the tail. My Darwin moment of the weekend.

Googling around the CPF does not turn up too many useful threads. Is there any reviews done on rechargeable cells in an E2DL?

With Aloha,

Clarence

 

[Tomcat!]

Although I don't have an E2DL, I can tell you it is possible to make an 17670 cell fit a 2 cell E series body. I have an old E2e with a KL4 head on and love the big floody beam. Unfortunately it eats primaries, so after reading various threads and getting advice, I bored out the torch body with a Dremmel from the switch end of the tube and the 17670 cell fits. The fitting problem is that the last 10mm or so of the battery tube (inside behind the tailcap collar) is tapered, presumably to stop rechargeables being used. The extra width of this type of cell makes the fit impossible (and a protected one is even thicker). The trick it to proceed slowly, taking off a little material at a time, and test fitting. You need to keep the tube as circular as possible. Don't forget to clean out all the metal shavings before you let the test cell anywhere near the tube. I've read others have opted for using a stick with ever finer sand/emery/abrasive paper. This will take more time but will give a more circular finish. My light now runs on a 17670 and I never have to worry about the cost so it's no longer a shelf queen.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Don't use 2 RCR123's in there.

 

[cl0123]

Perhaps it's time to look for more batteries. Just not sure if I would like to add another type of batteries into the list. Too many chargers and battery types to keep track of.

With Aloha,

Clarence

L2, L4, L5, E2L, E2D LED, (modern cree/seoul versions)
Battery Size: 2xCR123
Regulation Type: buck
Recommended Input Voltage Range: 3.8-6V (possibly up to 9V)
Recommended Rechargeable option: haven't decided what to recommend yet.
Rechargeable alternatives:
1. 1x 3.7V protected 17670 will fit some bodies and run with diminishing output through the run, plenty of runtime.
2. 1x 3.7V protected 14670 will fit in any of them and run with diminishing output through the run, good runtime.
3. 2x 3.0V LiFeP04 RCR123s
4. 2x 3.0V "voltage regulated" 3.0V protected LiCoO2 RCR123s
5. I'm still trying to search out the truth on the 9V maximum input voltage here, some people seem to be running some of these on a pair of 3.7V RCR123s, which for a buck-regulated light would be the best option to maintain steady output while having respectable runtime.
*SF battery tubes have pretty tight tolerance, not all RCR123/17670s will fit well. No guarantees.

 

[CM]

Don't use 2 RCR123's in there.

Why? Do you have evidence (not hearsay) that RCR's are bad for the P60L?

 

[Sgt. LED]

I spoke nothing of a P60L.

2 RCR123's would be perfectly fine running one of those.

 

[CM]

I spoke nothing of a P60L.

2 RCR123's would be perfectly fine running one of those.

Ooops, sorry, I'm having a senior moment.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Hey it's cool.
We all have those.