Refinish Polished Ti Light??

[GVS_Lakers]

Is it possible to put a Ti head and battery tube back on the lathe to get it back from a hi-polish finish, or could someone recommend a technique to accomplish something similar? I find the hi-polish to be too slippery, I want the original milling texture back.

 

[tx101]

I no expert, but I would try bead blasting

 

[GVS_Lakers]

My experience with bead blasting is it really picks up dirt and fingerprints...:thinking:

 

[precisionworks]

, I want the original milling texture back.

You'll never get that EXACT finish without remachining the parts. Each machine tool produces a finish that varies with speed, feed, depth of cut, and type of tool used - almost like a finger print.

I would try bead blasting

You may like that. The surface is a subdued, nonreflective finish. Chris Reeves uses bead blast for his Sebenza folder handles (the blades are stonewashed in ceramic tumbling media):

If you don't have abrasive blasting available, a maroon ScotchBrite pad will knock down the slick finish & give a bit better grip. If that's still too fine, try 600 grit wet-or-dry, then 400, then 240. Somewhere bewteen those grits will probably be as close as you can come to what you want.

 

[tx101]

My experience with bead blasting is it really picks up dirt and fingerprints...:thinking:

I think your thinking about something else

Have you seen McGizmos personal Sundrop XP

look here, its the third photo

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=203816

 

[GVS_Lakers]

I have owned Sebbies, and that finish isn't too bad. I guess it would depend on the media used when blasting.....I might be open to the possibilities. The light I am speaking of is in fact a PD, could it be chucked back up and have a few thousands taken off....of would that require a special fixture to accomplish?

 

[jch79]

Man, I have a bunch of bead blasted Ti lights, and they don't pick up ANY dirt or especially finger prints - it's the total opposite IMHO.
john

 

[GVS_Lakers]

So what media would be best for a light texture, where could one get it done?

 

[Anglepoise]

Is it possible to put a Ti head and battery tube back on the lathe to get it back from a hi-polish finish, or could someone recommend a technique to accomplish something similar? I find the hi-polish to be too slippery, I want the original milling texture back.

Yes.....It is possible and easy. I would recomend that you stay away from bead blasting. This will show scratches more easily.
What might suit you is a finish that has been rubbed with a 'Scothbrite' pad available in most hardware stores. A lathe makes the work easy, but you can also do a very nice job by hand. Do not rub up and down.....go around and around the circumference.
Below is a pic of TI straight off the lathe with a 'Scothbrite' finish

 

[GVS_Lakers]

Yes.....It is possible and easy. I would recomend that you stay away from bead blasting. This will show scratches more easily.
What might suit you is a finish that has been rubbed with a 'Scothbrite' pad available in most hardware stores. A lathe makes the work easy, but you can also do a very nice job by hand. Do not rub up and down.....go around and around the circumference.
Below is a pic of TI straight off the lathe with a 'Scothbrite' finish

Do tell where that light came from, I love it.:twothumbs

 

[tino_ale]

Man, I have a bunch of bead blasted Ti lights, and they don't pick up ANY dirt or especially finger prints - it's the total opposite IMHO.
john

Yup, I would totally second that. Only drawback of beadblasting I see it scratches will probably be more prone to be noticed

 

[chipwillis]

I like that light:twothumbs

 

[darkzero]

I also do not recommend bead blasting the entire light unless you are after that look. I would only prefer the clip to be bead blasted as it is stock.

I too would recommend the burgandy or gray scotchbrite or 600-800 grit sandpaper.

 

[GVS_Lakers]

I also do not recommend bead blasting the entire light unless you are after that look. I would only prefer the clip to be bead blasted as it is stock.

I too would recommend the burgandy or gray scotchbrite or 600-800 grit sandpaper.

Oh wise one, will you take on this tedious task for me?


:wave:

 

[PhotonFanatic]

I have owned Sebbies, and that finish isn't too bad. I guess it would depend on the media used when blasting.....I might be open to the possibilities. The light I am speaking of is in fact a PD, could it be chucked back up and have a few thousands taken off....of would that require a special fixture to accomplish?

To specifically answer your question: Yes, the piece can be be held, most likely with either an expanding collet or expanding mandrel, and a couple thou removed fairly easily.

 

[precisionworks]

The light I am speaking of is in fact a PD, could it be chucked back up and have a few thousands taken off?

It can be done, but isn't going to be inexpensive. The correct way is to take the light to a CNC shop that has a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine) - the CMM has a touch probe that scans all X,Y and Z contour info into the machining center. From that, they write a new program that follows the exact same contours as before, ending at -0.001" less on the radius (-0.002" on diameter). Setup for removing such a small amount isn't quick - add up the CMM time, program writing time, physical machine setup, actual machining, etc., and you have 2-3 hours @ $100/hour.

 

[GVS_Lakers]

I will be happy with just the cylindrical surfaces re-machined, wouldn't need the flutes re-done. Looks like I found a volunteer to do just that, and for a VERY reasonable price..:twothumbs

 

[darkzero]

Oh wise one, will you take on this tedious task for me?


:wave:

Of course I was not originally that volunteer & I don't have a lathe. Since I was doing work to it anyway, here you go....

My untouched 8 flute EDC is on top, your refinished 6 flute is on bottom.

That nasty scratch on the side (pictured below) along with all the other noticeable scratches are all gone. I don't have access to bead blasting for the clip but I gave it a nice brushed finish. It's no longer slippery just like you wanted. I really like this satin looking finish better than the polished look.

I centered the emitter, added a glow oring, & bumped it up to 750ma. The heatsink was previously just sitting in there loose with thermal grease. It's now epoxied in place.

Hope this suits your needs. Can't wait to do mine now. :wave:



Before:

After:

 

[GVS_Lakers]

Thank you very much for your efforts Will, it has been a pleasure working with you......I am sure this will not be the last time either :naughty:

 

[precisionworks]

& I don't have a lathe.

Nice work, darkzero:twothumbs

Without a lathe, how did you produce such a uniform finish???