*for submission into review forum*
UPDATED 29th July 08: RUNTIME GRAPH HIGH
SOME ADDED INFO:
I realise i forgot to add that its a reverse clicky, modes go
mid-low-hi-strobe. Reverse enables you to click on, and half press to the mode you want.
The new King Power K2 arrived via DHL, very fast! i wasnt expecting it so soon.
Here are the Manufacturor Specs
K2 Special Features
Special bezel
1. Graceful crenelated head
2. Tough glass lens with AR coating
3. Special designed deep reflector-throw great beam; can shot 150 meters.
Stable and high efficient circuitry
1. Digitally controlled stable AA circuitry with constant brightness
2. Turmeric PCB- anti abrading and durable
3. Mid/low/high/strobe without SOS-easy to operate and practical
Outlook and Structure
1.Graceful streamline design
2.New designed skid-proof structure on body tube
3.Type III hard anodized finish in black-60 microns
4.Input voltage: 0.8v-4.2v; fit for many kinds of AA batteries
Some additional features of K2
. Aircraft aluminum housing
. Four output levels
. Able to stand on tail
. Waterproof
Power: 88 Lumens/6 Lumens/180 Lumens/Strobe
Burn time[FONT=宋]:[/FONT]5.5 hours/120 hours/2.2 hours
Lamp: one 3W Cree Q5 LED
Battery: 2 AA size batteries
Length[FONT=宋]:[/FONT]151mm
Diameter[FONT=宋]:[/FONT]25mm
Weight: 100g (except batteries)
My Observations
-The clicky in this light is very tactile, very positive feeling, although some my find it a little hard.
- The body is extremely thick. 5mm at the head and 2mm at the Tail!
thats extremely thick. That makes this thing extremely rugged. The anodizing is smooth, nothing wrong with it as far as i can see.
- This is a very important factor for me. The Tail and the Head threads come to a definite stop, Meaning, when you screw it on, these dont "go further" and the stop a definite place...
- Its bright! i dont have any other 2 x AA lights to compare it, but its at least as bright as my P1D- Q5!
- The Levels are pretty good too. First level is its 80lm one, which is plenty, second level is the Low, its lower then the Low on my ML1 which according to milky is in the vicinity of 5-10 lm.
-The Beam on the Light is the only real place that might have problems. Its got that dreaded Cree ring, and thats due to the Smooth reflector more then anything.It honestly doesnt bother me, and if youre used to the cree ring, its really nothing to worry about it.
- The tint is Pretty Neutral. YMMV
Just general Picture
Beatmshots
Taken with the K2 running on Powerex Imedion 2100mah NiMh
K2 left, Tk10 right both on max
Same shot, lower exposure
My observation, the Tk10 edges out the hotspot of the K2 on high by just abit. But, the Tk10 is definetly brighter. How do i know? two tests.
Ceiling bounce, hard to see but i thought things were brighter with the Tk10, but, then i came up with the idea of both extremely close to the wall.
K2 on left, Tk10 right...low exposure
its surprisingly close! my K2 is definetly an over achiever.Its hard to see, but im still gonna stick with my Tk10 as being brighter, it was more painful to look at the Tk10 when i took that picture then the K2.
K2 LOW vs ARC-DS
Its an acceptable low as far as I'm concerened.
Looking for Throw?
K2 Max vs Tiablo A9 Max(2 x RCR123A low exposure)
*NOTE*
As most of you know by now, I dont own any sort of "Acceptable" camera, as such i cannot count my Low exposure by "stops" How do i do my low exposure? well, i take advantage of the shutter lag of my cell phone, i shine a bright light into the arperture, When i click, i quicky turn of that light, and move it away, so that its still adjusted exposure for that brightness, when its taking the beam shots. I am including this information because i know it will matter to some HOW i took those shots. I WILL get a DSLR one day...hopefully...maybe if i stopped spending everything on lights..
If you want, you can request Beamshots Against:
P1DQ5
Tiablo A9
Malkoff M60
DX R2 drop in
Arc LS-s
ROP-HI
Longbow Micra
Arc- CS
P60
Lumen Factory 320 lumen
LF2X
Kaidomain V4
the long awaited runtime graph
this is on high, the max brightness mode.the y-axis are lux numbers, but dont compare them to anything, they are relative only to how i am measureing it.x-axis is the time, i did 30 second intervals. Also note that when the graph hits zero, its still emmitting a usable amount of light, but its too little light for my lux meter to catch after my diffusing set up. My Observation, is regulation up to about an hour or so before it falls. YMMV, but it shouldnt vary too much..
like all other flashaholics, im very happy to see that straight-ish line, they got regulation right!
Crenshaw
UPDATED 29th July 08: RUNTIME GRAPH HIGH
SOME ADDED INFO:
I realise i forgot to add that its a reverse clicky, modes go
mid-low-hi-strobe. Reverse enables you to click on, and half press to the mode you want.
The new King Power K2 arrived via DHL, very fast! i wasnt expecting it so soon.
Here are the Manufacturor Specs
K2 Special Features
Special bezel
1. Graceful crenelated head
2. Tough glass lens with AR coating
3. Special designed deep reflector-throw great beam; can shot 150 meters.
Stable and high efficient circuitry
1. Digitally controlled stable AA circuitry with constant brightness
2. Turmeric PCB- anti abrading and durable
3. Mid/low/high/strobe without SOS-easy to operate and practical
Outlook and Structure
1.Graceful streamline design
2.New designed skid-proof structure on body tube
3.Type III hard anodized finish in black-60 microns
4.Input voltage: 0.8v-4.2v; fit for many kinds of AA batteries
Some additional features of K2
. Aircraft aluminum housing
. Four output levels
. Able to stand on tail
. Waterproof
Power: 88 Lumens/6 Lumens/180 Lumens/Strobe
Burn time[FONT=宋]:[/FONT]5.5 hours/120 hours/2.2 hours
Lamp: one 3W Cree Q5 LED
Battery: 2 AA size batteries
Length[FONT=宋]:[/FONT]151mm
Diameter[FONT=宋]:[/FONT]25mm
Weight: 100g (except batteries)
My Observations
-The clicky in this light is very tactile, very positive feeling, although some my find it a little hard.
- The body is extremely thick. 5mm at the head and 2mm at the Tail!
thats extremely thick. That makes this thing extremely rugged. The anodizing is smooth, nothing wrong with it as far as i can see.
- This is a very important factor for me. The Tail and the Head threads come to a definite stop, Meaning, when you screw it on, these dont "go further" and the stop a definite place...
- Its bright! i dont have any other 2 x AA lights to compare it, but its at least as bright as my P1D- Q5!
- The Levels are pretty good too. First level is its 80lm one, which is plenty, second level is the Low, its lower then the Low on my ML1 which according to milky is in the vicinity of 5-10 lm.
-The Beam on the Light is the only real place that might have problems. Its got that dreaded Cree ring, and thats due to the Smooth reflector more then anything.It honestly doesnt bother me, and if youre used to the cree ring, its really nothing to worry about it.
- The tint is Pretty Neutral. YMMV
Just general Picture
Beatmshots
Taken with the K2 running on Powerex Imedion 2100mah NiMh
K2 left, Tk10 right both on max
Same shot, lower exposure
My observation, the Tk10 edges out the hotspot of the K2 on high by just abit. But, the Tk10 is definetly brighter. How do i know? two tests.
Ceiling bounce, hard to see but i thought things were brighter with the Tk10, but, then i came up with the idea of both extremely close to the wall.
K2 on left, Tk10 right...low exposure
its surprisingly close! my K2 is definetly an over achiever.Its hard to see, but im still gonna stick with my Tk10 as being brighter, it was more painful to look at the Tk10 when i took that picture then the K2.
K2 LOW vs ARC-DS
Its an acceptable low as far as I'm concerened.
Looking for Throw?
K2 Max vs Tiablo A9 Max(2 x RCR123A low exposure)
*NOTE*
As most of you know by now, I dont own any sort of "Acceptable" camera, as such i cannot count my Low exposure by "stops" How do i do my low exposure? well, i take advantage of the shutter lag of my cell phone, i shine a bright light into the arperture, When i click, i quicky turn of that light, and move it away, so that its still adjusted exposure for that brightness, when its taking the beam shots. I am including this information because i know it will matter to some HOW i took those shots. I WILL get a DSLR one day...hopefully...maybe if i stopped spending everything on lights..
If you want, you can request Beamshots Against:
P1DQ5
Tiablo A9
Malkoff M60
DX R2 drop in
Arc LS-s
ROP-HI
Longbow Micra
Arc- CS
P60
Lumen Factory 320 lumen
LF2X
Kaidomain V4
the long awaited runtime graph
this is on high, the max brightness mode.the y-axis are lux numbers, but dont compare them to anything, they are relative only to how i am measureing it.x-axis is the time, i did 30 second intervals. Also note that when the graph hits zero, its still emmitting a usable amount of light, but its too little light for my lux meter to catch after my diffusing set up. My Observation, is regulation up to about an hour or so before it falls. YMMV, but it shouldnt vary too much..
like all other flashaholics, im very happy to see that straight-ish line, they got regulation right!
Crenshaw
Last edited: