Review: Milkyspit's L5 P7 mod with custom firmware

mcmc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 23, 2006
Messages
1,865
Hello,

My first review in a looong time.

Here is a light I commissioned from Milkyspit with my favorite light - the L5 - and a custom firmware for his splendid Acorn driver designed by yours truly.

3112834138_cb5bd3607a_o.jpg


Specs:
- Seoul SSC P7 CSXOI emitter
- L5 host: bored out head to accomodate new reflector and driver, and also body bored to take 18650
- McR-38 reflector: cut down to fit head, and used with a write-right on the lens
- Acorn driver set up with custom firmware, and direct drive
- Output: ~3 lumens on low, 700 lumens on high at beginning of output curve, 550 lumens toward end of output curve (estimate based on my discussions with Milky, and my observation)
- Runtime: 1.5hr+ on high

3112834204_6d5fff3a2d_o.jpg




Firmware:
Basically I wanted to be able to accomplish two things:
- Direct access to any level, from any level
- Use of 'manual strobe' (being able to tap the light quickly in succession, without changing modes on accident)

The way I got this to work was the following:
- 5 levels: 4 brightness levels, 1 regular strobe
- To access any level, tap (length < .25sec) X number of times, then press (length > .25sec) to reach X level (1 - high, 2 - med-high, 3 - med-low, 4 - low, 5 - strobe)
- If number of taps exceeds 5, nullify counter and do not change level on subsequent press - the 'manual' strobe

Milky coded the firmware just as I liked, and though I would have liked the top three levels to be spread out more (i.e. so that the gap between the top three levels and the lowest would be smaller), the three brightest levels are visually spaced equally from each other (taking into account the logarithmic nature of lumens output v/s visual brightness), and Milky also did a great job ekeing out the lowest possible low from the P7, so he did a great job on selecting the levels for this new firmware. Next time I might just ask him to add another level, between levels 3 (med-low) and 4 (low). Probably makes sense since the high is so high. Milky also set the strobe to a very nice and disorienting level.

I love this firmware, because for all intents and purposes, it makes the light behave as close to a single-stage light as you can get from a multi-stage light with single-button interface. I love the simplicity of a single-stage light, the fact that you can hand it to a non-flashaholic and it will behave as they would expect - click to turn on, click to turn off. No crazy mode-changing. Here, since the "tap" time length is relatively short (.25sec), if you click the clicky fully, it will always take longer than .25sec, so you never run the risk of their switching modes, as long as they click the light - which almost everyone will. And if needed, I can also strobe the light manually, should the situation for it (hopefully not!) arise.

Being able to access any level from any level, also means that I can hold the bezel to my body (so that no light escapes) and can tap-tap-tap-click to get level 3 (for example), each and every time - without having to look at what mode it's in, cycle through different brightness levels, etc.

I feel like this firmware setup has its merits and wanted to share that with everyone too =) Does anyone else out there find that this might fit your needs?



Beam:
Now, on to discussion about the beam and performance! I had the chance to take this on an outdoor camping trip, and I was BLOWN AWAY. It is so bright on high, that it illuminated an area 150' wide and 200' in front of me with no problem. I provided enough light for 40 people on a wide trail all by myself. Seriously. What a crazy light =)

As far as runtime, I ran it on that camping trip on a 17670 just out of curiosity, and it ran for over an hour on high with that battery, so the 1.5+ hr figure I got was a guesstimation for the 18650. Once I have a chance to run a real-world runtime with the 18650, I will update that figure - but I have a feeling it will run even longer than that.

Now, the beamshots - sorry, nothing adventurous, just indoor beamshots. The exposure was locked from shot to shot, and white balance was set for daylight.

Level 4 - Low
3112003127_50d05f9b72_o.jpg


Level 3 - Med-low
3112003191_678abc1fb2_o.jpg


Level 2 - Med-high
3112003259_03fa86c89d_o.jpg


Level 1 - High
3112834888_c78341f89f_o.jpg


The beam is very wide, as you can see, and it has a brighter area in the middle - but in practical use the hotspot is not very defined, and it feels more like a very steroidal L4. I think the brighter middle area translates to further reach in the middle of the beam, when used outdoors - if that makes sense. Rather than having the narrow pencil-beam hotspot many Lux-based lights can have.

Here is a beamshot showing the color performance, again on daylight wb:

3112003367_7f89efd88a_o.jpg


For comparison, here is the same shot but with my new U2by2 High-CRI SSC S2 light (review to come), with same exposure and white balance:
3112003477_32ff33000a_o.jpg


Finally, the Blokus box with the room's tungsten lightbulbs:
3112835048_5be086aa54_o.jpg


The L5's color is very neutral, and outdoors it does very well even with brown leaves and green grass. It is a great all-around tint.


So, there you have it. A fantastic, bright, bright mod, well-heatsinked with a custom sink by Milky, well put-together, useful levels, and just an amazing wide area flamethrower in your pocket. Milky does great, meticulous work that he stands by, and he is also a very nice fellow to get to know. Also, he does this full-time and I think he's one of the most innovative and painstakingly detailed modders around. Highly recommended!
 
Last edited:
Yeah, ain't she a beaut, guys? And of course there are all the great things about the L5 itself that didn't go mentioned - the multiple hand positions, the cool look, etc. SF + Milky = awesome.

Outdoorslight, not sure - I suspect I may like the warm 5A tint available for MC-E's better...but as far as beam profile, not sure? Would love to find out though =)
 
Nice light :thumbsup:
But the UI rocks. Great thinking. I have been looking for a good transparant multi-level UI like that. One that acts like a single level light until told otherwise. The truly straightforward best is the U2, but that requires two hands and dedicated hardware setup and can not easily be applied to upgrades like this UI can. I think there would still be instances of non-CPF types to accidentally activate high via a clumsy tap-press, but this is better than most. It says a lot that it is close to the HDS/Novatac UI.
 
Hey Blind! =) Long time no see.

Thanks - I really feel like this f/w shines because of the one-handed multi-level use. And, in a < 1.5sec sequence, from off, you can be at any light level, which the new Novatac f/w has for high, but not for the other levels.

Originally I wanted to use the HDS f/w or something very similar, but I ran it by Henry and as we discussed it, it was clear that this wouldn't be a good idea. I ran this firmware's behavior by him, and he gave it a clean bill of health as different enough. It does take an extra tap or few, but it's also expandable to more levels, and if you don't like strobe, you could take it out, etc. In general it acts more like a 4-level, since I rarely use strobe, which is why I made it the five-tapper.

Definitely, you are right that an agile-fingered person would be able to still change modes on you. However, most of the time I am lending the light to people on full power - and if you tap-click, then you're still on full power, which it seems is what most people do, so there's a little inadvertent extra 'protection' there =D

But definitely Henry of HDS is the man for thinking of the original f/w style to be able to access all the other levels from any on level, and I think it was for economy of presses that he did his f/w the way he did - you can get to any of the other three levels within 3 or less button taps/presses. Amazing and groundbreaking idea, and one that inspired me.
 
Also, one reason I requested the tap time length to be so short, is that I noticed a lot of non-flashaholics, due to Mag's great switch, know about momentary, so they'll use momentary a couple times, click it, then use momentary again, etc. But I figure few people will only blink it on, and instead use momentary for longer than the .25 seconds in most cases. I also like to use momentary, the whole 'tactical' thing, and without really thinking about it, I can also use it as a single-stage and not worry about changing modes - the extra 'protection' mentioned above applies here as well.
 
Hi mcmc! I've been around! :candle: Just not quite the five posts a day I used to do.

I agree - the < 0.25sec tap timing is a big part of the reason it works so well. Elements of the UI have been used elsewhere, like the tap length in the venerable Striker VG and HDS simple momentary (I have my HDS set up that way) but you (and Milky - I won't discount his genius; I have and enjoy several of his lights) put them together so well in one beautiful light. Yes, a very, very nice looking light. The L5 bezel is styling tour-de-force.
 
Thanks JetSkiMark! =)

Yeah...I know what you mean. However, I think reprogramming is fairly quick, since he already has the f/w set up. The longer projects I think are ones where he has to send the head out to get machined by an outside shop, or a build that he is unfamiliar with because he hasn't used that particular host much. Both were the case with this L5 and it took me a while =D

If you do get the UI though, let us know how it works out for you!
 
How much did this project cost you? Do you think Milky would be interested in doing another? This light sounds better than my M6 - brighter, multistage, longer run time, fits in the pocket. I'm not familiar with the batteries. They are rechargeable? How many charge cycles do they typically hold up for? Cost? Thanks for the help and congrats on the light.
 
Watching the kids today... 2 of 3 have been home sick, and I'm Mr. Mom, and Mr. Modder, all wrapped up in one! :eek:oo: Anyway, I'm pretty darned late in getting here but wanted to offer some comments in hopes they might still be useful.


Excellent light and outstanding work on designing the UI.

I would like to have one of my Acorn drivers programmed your way to try it out. But I hate to wait.

If all I need to do is reprogram an Acorn driver, the turnaround time would be very quick... in most cases I'd have the driver reprogrammed within 24 hours of receiving the light. Not sure if that qualifies as not keeping you waiting, but maybe it helps. I'll overnight the light(s) back to you, too, if you wish and have the additional postage in your budget.


How much did this project cost you? Do you think Milky would be interested in doing another? This light sounds better than my M6 - brighter, multistage, longer run time, fits in the pocket. I'm not familiar with the batteries. They are rechargeable? How many charge cycles do they typically hold up for? Cost? Thanks for the help and congrats on the light.

Frank, I'd gladly build another if you wish. Or build something different... you're the boss! Price will depend heavily on the details of what we put together, but in general I could make a ballpark guess this sort of build will cost you at least $100 and in all likelihood will be less than $300. That's a wide range, admittedly... I mention it mainly because I'd rather estimate high and come back with a lower final cost, rather than the other way around.
 
Watching the kids today... 2 of 3 have been home sick, and I'm Mr. Mom, and Mr. Modder, all wrapped up in one! :eek:oo: Anyway, I'm pretty darned late in getting here but wanted to offer some comments in hopes they might still be useful.




If all I need to do is reprogram an Acorn driver, the turnaround time would be very quick... in most cases I'd have the driver reprogrammed within 24 hours of receiving the light. Not sure if that qualifies as not keeping you waiting, but maybe it helps. I'll overnight the light(s) back to you, too, if you wish and have the additional postage in your budget.




Frank, I'd gladly build another if you wish. Or build something different... you're the boss! Price will depend heavily on the details of what we put together, but in general I could make a ballpark guess this sort of build will cost you at least $100 and in all likelihood will be less than $300. That's a wide range, admittedly... I mention it mainly because I'd rather estimate high and come back with a lower final cost, rather than the other way around.
Please clear your mailbox, Scott, or send me a link to your email address.
 
Top