Romisen RC-C3 CREE
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Probedude
Enlightened
It too have one, sku is 6117.
Check out BessieBenny's thread in the review section. There's some info on it there.
Here's my info on it
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2390205#post2390205
I'll put an RCR123A in and see what I get.
Dave
Check out BessieBenny's thread in the review section. There's some info on it there.
Here's my info on it
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2390205#post2390205
I'll put an RCR123A in and see what I get.
Dave
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generic808
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I have 4 of them. They are great little lights with a great pocket clip. They run much brighter off of 3.6V RCR's versus primaries.
My3kidsfather
Enlightened
I too have just one but it's a doozy. My RC-C3 Just loves my new AW rcr123a's. Using the AW's, it is almost as bright as our P3D on high with it's primaries. And the RC-C3 likes primaries too, just not quite as bright. Fits easily in my pocket, it's my edc of choice. Always seems to impress anyone who tries it out. Get at least one. It's brighter than all my other AA's.
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Ditto. I loved it so much I ordered another. Small, crazy bright, reasonable price, and solid Romisen quality. The clip is easily removable, but I left mine on for now. A great EDC light. (No problem using Trustfire protected CR123 rechargables from DX.)
Wolf359
Enlightened
what is the runtime like with the trustfire rcr123 ?
BigBluefish
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How's the brightness and runtime on a CR123 primary?
Probedude
Enlightened
I was looking at something else and then came across my post showing the guts of the sku 6117 RC-C3
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2348216&postcount=16
As you can see there is a boost converter in there which explains why it's bright even using a primary CR123A. Since this is a boost converter and not a a boost/buck, the driver can only increase the battery voltage to the LED so when you use an RCR123A that is ~4.2V fully charged, that voltage is going pretty much straight to the LED. This explains why it's brighter on RCR123A's.
BigBlueFish, check bessiebennies thread. He has lightbox measurements.
Dave
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2348216&postcount=16
As you can see there is a boost converter in there which explains why it's bright even using a primary CR123A. Since this is a boost converter and not a a boost/buck, the driver can only increase the battery voltage to the LED so when you use an RCR123A that is ~4.2V fully charged, that voltage is going pretty much straight to the LED. This explains why it's brighter on RCR123A's.
BigBlueFish, check bessiebennies thread. He has lightbox measurements.
Dave
BigBluefish
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Thanks. I've looked through that thread many times (it's great) but must have missed that. I'll check it out.
kramer5150
Flashaholic
Can someone comment on the "feel" of the twist-switch on this light?
Is it one of those cheap-feeling twist switches... that feels like you are taking the light apart when you turn it on/off?
Also... how is the water resistance with lubed O-rings? Is it splash/heavy rain resistant?
Thanks!!
Is it one of those cheap-feeling twist switches... that feels like you are taking the light apart when you turn it on/off?
Also... how is the water resistance with lubed O-rings? Is it splash/heavy rain resistant?
Thanks!!
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Damn this light is in the post being delivered as we speak, If i'd known it had a plastic pill I would of passed on this romisen.
If this accidentally turned on in my pocket or bag I just can't see it standing up to a full discharge of a rcr123, well not without seriously killing the life of the led.
If this accidentally turned on in my pocket or bag I just can't see it standing up to a full discharge of a rcr123, well not without seriously killing the life of the led.
generic808
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There's no seperate switch for this unit. It's just two pieces, basically, the body twists to turn on. It is solid feeling; sometimes a little too hard. I lubed all four of mine and it helped a little, but it is still a pretty tight, solid twist which will not turn on accidentally. It seems sealed off very well and I'm sure it'll be at least moderately water resistant. Don't know if it can take a dunk though, and I'm not planning on finding out.
Probedude
Enlightened
It doesn't rattle - the battery is under constant spring tension. The switching is done by the tail cap contacting a metal ring on the pill since the pill itself is not electrically connected to the head tubing due to the pill being mostly plastic.
I've had it come on accidentally when in a front jeans pocket and I was sitting down. If you compress the tail and head together you can make this a momentary on light. Unscrew it a few turns and you won't have to worry about accidentally turning it on.
It is quite a solid light. I prefer clickies though and there's certainly room for one in the same length body (the 602C UF Q5 5mode is pretty much the same length light but is a tail clicky.)
I've had it come on accidentally when in a front jeans pocket and I was sitting down. If you compress the tail and head together you can make this a momentary on light. Unscrew it a few turns and you won't have to worry about accidentally turning it on.
It is quite a solid light. I prefer clickies though and there's certainly room for one in the same length body (the 602C UF Q5 5mode is pretty much the same length light but is a tail clicky.)
Vikas Sontakke
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The trouble with clicky CR123 light is that it does not fit in the font jeans pocket whereas a twisty has a hope of coming in under 68mm
- Vikas
- Vikas
Probedude
Enlightened
Well the 602C Q5 5mode has been my EDC for a few weeks, never any issue in the front pocket.
The twisty RC-C3 is 75mm in length, the 602C Q5 per DX's website is 73mm. So UF was able to do it, that or the RC-C3 is pretty long.
Where does the 68mm come from?
Vikas Sontakke
Enlightened
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I have an old $12 light insanely bright (on RCR123A) 68mm long light (DX sku 1996 http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1996
I was hoping C3 would be of that length :-(
- Vikas
I was hoping C3 would be of that length :-(
- Vikas
Probedude
Enlightened
Ahh, I see. I was confused when I got the 602C Q5 5mode and found it to be just as long (pretty much) as my RC-C3. There's a lot of wasted space in the RC-C3.
warlord
Enlightened
I was between the RC-C3 and the 602D HA-III and I went with the latter. I figure that when I decide to mod it the finish should be in better condition than if I went with the C3. Heck I already picked up a multimode driver for it...
Probedude - how do you like the Q5 vs the P4? Do you think it worth upgrading or should I do a wait and see in regards to the R2...
Probedude - how do you like the Q5 vs the P4? Do you think it worth upgrading or should I do a wait and see in regards to the R2...
Probedude
Enlightened
In my 602C Q5, the LED is being overdriven. In the RC-C3 I don't think it is overdriven, or not as hard. So making a comparison is difficult.
I REALLY like my RC-F4 and that uses a P4 but it's too big to EDC.
