Samsung 18650 - 26C test

old4570

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Is it a genuine Samsung ? I sourced it from Ebay and ? Seems to perform ok so I would guess its the real deal ...

I do like the performance curve .. and those last two chinese cells were rather good , but I think the Samsung has a slightly better curve ...
:whistle:
 
FYI these batteries should charge up to 4.3V. When charged to 4,2 they have only 2,6Ah.

Samsung also makes 3000mAh 18650 cells that needs to be charged up to 4.35V.
 
FYI these batteries should charge up to 4.3V. When charged to 4,2 they have only 2,6Ah.

Samsung also makes 3000mAh 18650 cells that needs to be charged up to 4.35V.

These are the 2600mAH cells. They should only be charged to 4.2v.

Samsungs 2800 should be charged to 4.3v and the 3000's to 4.35.
 
You are right. I don't know why I thought that you've tested 2800 version :laughing:
 
Is it a genuine Samsung ? I sourced it from Ebay and ? Seems to perform ok so I would guess its the real deal ...


That line cracked me up! :crackup: You never know why cells end up on fleabay. :thinking:

Anyway, nice job there, old. :thumbsup: What would be interesting, is if you retested a lot of these cells you have after 50 or so cycles. I mentioned recently in another thread, that somebody did such a test a few years ago here on CPF. The results were noteworthy, because the difference between inexpensive cells and cells like Samsung's only became evident after a number of cycles. Initially they all performed pretty well, but after 50 cycles or so, the inexpensive cells suffered significant loss of capacity, and the "big brands" did not. I for one, would be curious if this still applies.

I think part of the problem with testing new Li-Ion cells is that unlike nickel based cells, whose performance actually improves during the first 50 cycles, Li-Ion cells are downhill from the start. Testing and comparing cells that have been in use for a while paints a different picture, where Li-Ion's are concerned.

Keep up the good work!

Dave
 
I ordered a CBA III so I'll be getting it soon. I plan on doing a lot of tests with various cells. I was curious about the difference in quality over time between well known brands and cheapo X-fire type cells.
 
That line cracked me up! :crackup: You never know why cells end up on fleabay. :thinking:

Anyway, nice job there, old. :thumbsup: What would be interesting, is if you retested a lot of these cells you have after 50 or so cycles. I mentioned recently in another thread, that somebody did such a test a few years ago here on CPF. The results were noteworthy, because the difference between inexpensive cells and cells like Samsung's only became evident after a number of cycles. Initially they all performed pretty well, but after 50 cycles or so, the inexpensive cells suffered significant loss of capacity, and the "big brands" did not. I for one, would be curious if this still applies.

I think part of the problem with testing new Li-Ion cells is that unlike nickel based cells, whose performance actually improves during the first 50 cycles, Li-Ion cells are downhill from the start. Testing and comparing cells that have been in use for a while paints a different picture, where Li-Ion's are concerned.

Keep up the good work!

Dave

Well , so much counterfeit out there , but this looks to be the real deal , and I thought I might be taking a chance buying from India :grin2: , but looks like good feedback for the seller with this one ...

Its not cheap , but it is cheaper than the AW2600 , but its not a protected cell , which for some ? Does not worry me though , protected or unprotected , its a darn good 18650 and Im happy to put it to some use ..

Actually , if your interested
 
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......but its not a protected cell......


Yeah, well, that's actually a good indicator that it might be genuine. As I've stated many times on the Forum, there are no manufacturers that I'm aware of that manufacture individual cells with protection circuits. As far as that goes, most refuse to sell individual cells period, except to pack manufacturers and distributors. Cells with protection circuits, have had them added on by distributors.

Dave
 
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These are the 2600mAH cells. They should only be charged to 4.2v.

Samsungs 2800 should be charged to 4.3v and the 3000's to 4.35.

What kind of charger would be needed to charge to 4.35v? I guess my PILA IBC will not do this, right?
 
these are exactly the same with the oens I pulled out of am ASUS laptop battery...for waht is worth...
 
I've pulled these from a few HP Mini's aswell. They're my battery of choice if I'm taking them from a laptop. I've had a solid 2C discharge from them with no hassles, many times.

I'd like a few more... I don't suppose there a few more on eBay?
 
Does anybody know what the mfr date code "8B2" translates to? If they're not 5 years old or something, I may obtain a few of these. Actually, I'm overstocked with 18650's right now, but.......:)

Sorry for getting OT, old. :(

Dave
 
What kind of charger would be needed to charge to 4.35v? I guess my PILA IBC will not do this, right?

I have seen Li-on chargers that go to 4.35v out there. It was from a factory though.... I don't know of a distributor.

Other advanced hobby chargers or bench chargers may have the ability to fine tune the charging voltage.

If you just use a standard charger though and charge up to 4.2v for a 3000mAH Samsung cell, you'll loose out on 10-15% of the batteries capacity, but the cycle life will be better.

I recently ordered a set of 2, RCR123 batteries that include a charger. The batteries are VERY unique for LiCo cells. They have a maximum charging voltage of 4.6v, and a minimum recommended discharge of 2.4v.
 
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Does anybody know what the mfr date code "8B2" translates to? If they're not 5 years old or something, I may obtain a few of these.
Maybe 2008-something? 26D is the current model of Samsung 2600 mAh 18650.
 
Maybe 2008-something? 26D is the current model of Samsung 2600 mAh 18650.


I think the "26D" just refers to the particular model of the cell. The standalone "8B2" or "6B1" etc. is the date of manufacture. I think that's what you meant though. It could be year/month/week, I suppose. February 2008 wouldn't be too bad, I guess.

Dave
 
old thread, but thought I'd put this in here since this thread is the first result when I search for samsung 18650 date code.
■ Lot marking : There are two lines on the cell metal can as follows.
Line 1 : 1128 --- 1st digit: line number ( "1" means Line No. 1)
2
nd~3rd digit: Model Name ("12" is INR18650-15Q)
4
th digit: Year ( "8" is 2008)
Line 2 : 4E1C5 --- 1st digit: Month ( "4" is Apr. ; A is Oct., B is Nov., C is Dec)
2
nd digit: Date ("E" is 15th day ; 1, 2 is 2... , 10 is A, 11 is B…)
3
rd digit: Serial No. of winding
4
th digit: Reel No ( "C" is C reel ; A is A reel, B is B reel, ... F

source: http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/6615.pdf

sorry for necropost.
 
Another "26C" question, as I just pulled nine out of an old Mac laptop battery -- one around 3.8v, and the other eight slightly over 4v as found.
All charged ok without heating up, on an Intellicharger I4. But they must be rather old, can anyone read these codes?

On the pink wrapper:
ICR18650-26C
SAMSUNG SDI
812

underneath the pink wrapper, visible through it:
K9F3
H781
11D21

I ask because I know li-ions do go downhill whether used or not -- I used to see 3 years as their usable life, though I gather that these may still be useful
(in one of the recommended power banks that handles discharge protection)
I know not to use these unprotected cells in lights without built in protection, and I don't have any multiple-li-ion lights.
 
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