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Shoppe is up. What would you like to see on the Sandwich Shoppe?

dat2zip

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 5, 2002
Messages
3,420
Location
Bay Area
We have had request for new LEDs.
Is there interest for optics as well?

Other suggestions? Please post.
We will look into some new products.
 
Loose forward clicky switches that will handle 3A and not cost a mint.

XML's, cool and neutral.

Triple and quad XPG stars-Carlco optics to match.

P60 empty pills and reflectors.

That's a start-no one wants Luxeons any more!

Rich
 
Larger reflectors than the McR27s. Speaking of which, when do you expect to have more stock of McR20s?

I'd love to see you come out with some 2.5-3A buck drivers that can be used in P60 drop-ins. I know that there are thermal limitations to using such a thing in a P60, but, I have my own solution to that problem.

How about a 1.5-2A boost driver that would fit a P60?
 
P60 driver. Can you be a little more specific?

What is the dimensional requirements? A P60 is what battery configurations?

Wayne
 
I would like to purchase high CRI emitters above 90 CRI and around 5000K CCT. Namely xp-g, and nichia 119
 
Those new U2 binned XM-L's at 5700K, cutter has them.
R5 XP-G's of various tints, particular interest for me would be 2C/2D ish tint.
 
P60 driver. Can you be a little more specific?

What is the dimensional requirements? A P60 is what battery configurations?

Wayne
Wayne, they're nominally 17mm in diameter, have a negative ring and a positive contact on one side with the circuitry on the other. Height is not critical up to about 5 or 6mm. Typical batteries could be anything from a single CR123a (3V) to three 18650s (12.6V fresh off the charger). Most buck drivers support down to about 3.3V, leaving out the CR123a primary users. Your GD series boards would be perfect if they were 17mm in diameter for those folks who want to run a single 18650 or CR123a primary.
 
A 17mm diam GD would be great for single Li-ion applications. A 17mm SOB would be great for multi-cell lights. Higher power would be nice for the XM-L (3A) and even the XP-G (1.5A). An incandescent driver would be "hot" (for C and D Mag mods)!
 
at about the possibility of a brass ring to adapt the 14mm drivers to a 17mm space? I was thinking of doing this for the drop-in that I'm going to be making for my G2.
 
I know it's asking a lot, but I think many people would like to see a 17mm or 18mm driver with a positive contact spring (to clear components that would likely have to be on both sides of the board) that would buck at least 2 Li-ion (preferably 3) cells to drive an XM-L (or other single die) at 2.5-3 amps. Of course, some people will want multiple levels, but many would be happy to have just 1 if that is all that can be easily arranged.
 
at about the possibility of a brass ring to adapt the 14mm drivers to a 17mm space? I was thinking of doing this for the drop-in that I'm going to be making for my G2.

The challenge with a brass ring is that several components on the 14mm drivers like the BBNG, GD, and SOB are very close to the board edge or right on the edge. Instead of going with a workaround solution that risks shorting out the driver, I'd prefer a ground-up solution based on a new 17mm diam design. I know you can move some components slightly in-board, which I've done with the inductor on the SOB for example, but there are still other components close to the edge.

Plus, thermal management is that much more challenging with the smaller 14mm boards. It can be tough enough with the bigger Sharks and Blue Sharks.
 
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let me be very specific: :)

High CRI XPG: Put it on a 14mm star.

Cutter has the bare led not on star. This the Highest kelvin High CRI XPG available. The rest are too yellow.
This is the highest Bin High CRI XPG, the R2 Bin.
This will be hot!
XPG R2 bin High CRI 80 CRI, 4000K Neutral: XPGWHT-H1-000-00EE5

Better yet, develop a Copper star & mount it on it, you are back to bleeding edge :devil:


 
The challenge with a brass ring is that several components on the 14mm drivers like the BBNG, GD, and SOB are very close to the board edge or right on the edge. Instead of going with a workaround solution that risks shorting out the driver, I'd prefer a ground-up solution based on a new 17mm diam design. I know you can move some components slightly in-board, which I've done with the inductor on the SOB for example, but there are still other components close to the edge.

Plus, thermal management is that much more challenging with the smaller 14mm boards. It can be tough enough with the bigger Sharks and Blue Sharks.

Good point.

I wonder what happened to the beginning of my previous post?
 
I second Mudman's request. Also, I would like to see more of the PTS-2 D sized heat sinks become available. I'm having a hard time finding the right sink for a triple XML mag D mod...
 
Besides the xml stuff and optics, I would love to see an input filter setup for automotive uses. A lot of people want to make their own stuff for use on 12 volt auto stuff. Working with the 12volt charging system can be "swingy"...

SOOO many people in the motorcycle world are chomping at the bits for LED auxillary and driving lights because of the low current draw and sorry charging systems on most bikes!
 
Completed mule heads with High CRI Nichia 083 or 119 LEDs. Single mode. Usual grey anodize
 
XM-L TIRS please! Also, U2 bins XM-Ls on any sized star... Triple XM-L round 20mm PCBs... Efficient buck drivers that can handle 12-18V @3A...

:D

Please... :D
 
How about some updated A19 light engines? They haven't been updated for years
Top bin XP-E or XP-G would be nice. single mode
 
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