Single Cr123 flashlights max mA?

iocheretyanny

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I noticed Gdup is max 700mA, Quarks are driven at a max 700mA on 1 cell.
Are there flashlights that drive harder on single CR123 cell?

Is there a good reason why a higher drive level is not used for max level?

on multi level lights I would want the max as high as possible - kind of like the HDS only guaranteed 20 minutes run time on MAX level...
 
You can get 1A from some of the single level drivers from the Shoppe.

ARC mania's gotten ~1.5A from a CR123A with his recent drivers.
 
The C2H I had was driven at 1.38A. It only lasted 20 min. before the battery protection kicked in.
 
Lumapower D-Mini EX draws over 2 Amps from a 16340 cell. I'll have to check it with a CR123 and see what it draws. I'm pretty sure it's the brightest 123 cell size light you can get right now.
 
I don't know of single cells trying to max out the current consumption...

But I do know that using the MN21 in the M6 your pulling 2.5A from cr123A and from those of who did made MN21 runtimes...I'm guessing thats the upper limit of CR123As [~1.75C]

the old TW4 setup [E1e+ KL4] drew about an amp
 
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I'm not sure what current the led is driven at on high but the Deerelight C2H is the brightest Single CR123 light I've seen or own. It drains battery juice faster than Dracula on steroids. I'm hoping Deerelight comes out with a new pill.

Bill
 
I have both the C2H and the D-Mini EX. The C2H isn't even close. Of course, the D-Mini EX has an MC-E emitter, so it isn't a fair fight, but the original question was highest max current in a single cell light and did not specify the emitter :D
 
I have both the C2H and the D-Mini EX. The C2H isn't even close. Of course, the D-Mini EX has an MC-E emitter, so it isn't a fair fight, but the original question was highest max current in a single cell light and did not specify the emitter :D

True, he did say single CR123 not Single die emitter! ;)

Bill
 
Uh oh. I spoke too soon, bragging on my D-Mini EX.
With a brand new, 4Sevens CR123, the D-Mini EX only draws about 330mA.
It's a blazing 2A with a rechargeable cell, but with a CR123 it is not in the running for this contest.:(
 
Uh oh. I spoke too soon, bragging on my D-Mini EX.
With a brand new, 4Sevens CR123, the D-Mini EX only draws about 330mA.
It's a blazing 2A with a rechargeable cell, but with a CR123 it is not in the running for this contest.:(

With the RCR123 how hot does it get on high?

Has anybody posted beamshots?
 
Using a new CR123, my Jet II Pro I.B.S. draws about 2.06A. But my Jet II I.B.S. (non Pro) only draws about 1.1A.
With rechargeable cells, my Jet II Pro I.B.S. draws 1.4A and my Jet II I.B.S. draws 720mA.
My Eagletac T10C draws 1.6A on the CR123 and 880mA on a rechargeable 16340.
I don't have my C2H available to test right now.
 
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With the RCR123 how hot does it get on high?

Has anybody posted beamshots?

Heat should not be an issue in the D-Mini EX running on a RCR123 because the battery will die in 10 to 15 minutes anyway:laughing:
Lumapower posted a beamshot in their forum thread about this light. You get an intense, fat hotspot with a very slight darkspot and a huge, bright, absolutely perfect spill beam.
 
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Heat should not be an issue in the D-Mini EX running on a RCR123 because the battery will die in 10 to 15 minutes anyway:laughing:
Lumapower posted a beamshot in their forum thread about this light. You get an intense, fat hotspot with a very slight darkspot and a huge, bright, absolutely perfect spill beam.

I don't suppose there is any protection to prevent overdraining your RCR's?
 
Using a new CR123, my Jet II Pro I.B.S. draws about 2.06A. But my Jet II I.B.S. (non Pro) only draws about 1.1A.
With rechargeable cells, my Jet II Pro I.B.S. draws 1.4A and my Jet II I.B.S. draws 720mA.
My Eagletac T10C draws 1.6A on the CR123 and 880mA on a rechargeable 16340.
I don't have my C2H available to test right now.

Please help me understand, when you say it draws 1.6A on CR123 that is from the battery? is there a different curent for the LED?

I guess I am confused - the Quark is rated at 700mA - is that at the battery or at LED? is there a difference?
 
Yes, I am measuring battery current. The LED current is different.
There is a regulator circuit between the battery and the LED. Each flashlight manufacturer will design their regulator around their own unique requirements. Some focus on max power; getting as much light as possible at the expense of efficiency. Others focus on getting longer runtime, or adding features like strobe.
But, in general, when comparing a group of lights designed to work with the same battery configuration, the battery current is a strong indicator of the light intensity.
Measuring the LED current is a far more accurate way of comparing lights, but it takes a lot more work since you have to unsolder the LED and insert a low resistance ammeter in series.
Measuring battery current and knowing battery voltage, you can calculate the total power dissipated by the light. Some of the power is lost in the regulator circuit, but most should be getting to the LED.
 
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