Small disappointments

[Trouthead]

I was an early adopter of CFL, and aside from use in a closet I found the light to be insufficient for use as a reading lamp. When I finally found some larger CFLs that put out light equivalent to 150 or 200 watt bulbs I was thrilled. When I purchased a few different ones I found that they did not fit inside the lamp harps. So I found harp extenders and extra long harps. I thought great until I tried to use a harp extender, and have never been able to get one to stay on a lamp as they appear to be intended. I ended up duct taping a few to the various lamps, not a very elegant solution.

So now LED bulbs have kind of arrived. Lots equivalent to 60 watt but nothing I have found in the 150 -200 watt equivalent range.

How do I do the right thing and give LEDs a shot if all I can find and all that is in the major pipelines are low lumen (800 or so) replacement.

How do people read with that low light. Maybe I am getting to old, but I would like to replace everything to either LED or CFL, and still be able to read without eyestrain and squinting.

Are their any new solutions to CFLs in table or floor lamps and somehow extending the harp so the base of the bulb fits. What are others doing to use larger CFLs in lamps?

No one seems to ever discuss this. Maybe I am just getting old eyes, but 800 lumens for reading is just too little light for me.

 

[Steve K]

I think you are correct and justified to be a bit annoyed. I assume that LED lights will get to a proper 1500 lumens or so, but there are issues that have to resolved first.

My own experience is that I made a LED cluster to produce around 1500 lumens. The project used three of Seoul Semi's 8W Acrich2 modules rated for roughly 600 lumens each. The design did end up being rather bulky, partly due to my desire to keep LED temperatures down to something that would permit a long LED lifetime. My guess is that the need to have some sort of decent heatsinking and # of LEDs would make the light too large to fit into a typical light fixture.

Any chance that someone makes a "Y" adapter, so that you could fit two bulbs into a single socket? That might be the quick and dirty way to solve your problem.
edit: this is what I was thinking of....
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RN19V4/?tag=cpf0b6-20

 

[carnal]

Get a lamp like this, and put 4 60w equivalent LED lamps in it. You'll love it.

It's the ultimate for choosing your lighting level. I found 2 of these recently for $5-10 at thrift stores. I had to find my own shades, but thats nothing I can't find easy & cheap.

The lower wattage LED lamps are at this point more efficient and run cooler! I run most of my floor lamps on a single dimmer. (Auto-transformer actually)
That way you can REALLY be obsessive about controlling light AND heat.

Steve's idea with the "y" adapter is a good one too. I use them in a lamp also, not as much for getting BIG light levels, but having a night light possibility with a Feit 2w candelabra bulb. One 60w equiv and one 2w. I just reach under the shade to adjust the light level, by screwing/unscrewing.

Are their any new solutions to CFLs in table or floor lamps and somehow extending the harp so the base of the bulb fits. What are others doing to use larger CFLs in lamps?

My 150 watt CFL fits nicely in that above pictured lamp, as there is no harp above 3 of the sockets. I also have spare lamp shades, and I have been experimenting with abbreviating the cloth covering on one of them. I only left the covering on the frame where it MIGHT hit my eyes, otherwise It's just bare frame on the wall side. Light level has increased significantly, with a brighter wall. Now I'm contemplating, weather I want a NORMAL looking living room or not (with my "half naked") lamp shades. :)

These Phillips 60w equiv bulb are a killer deal for $8 now at Home Deep. They'd go just stunningly, with your new (used) floorlamps. :)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...ED-Light-Bulb-E-424382/203553310#.UsXYf9JDsRI

Brian

ps, Steve if you were going to build another Acrich2 module cluster, what would you expect to pay, and is there any competition yet for the Acrich2, that could be built, without a microscope and surface mount mumbo jumbo?

 

[Steve K]

ps, Steve if you were going to build another Acrich2 module cluster, what would you expect to pay, and is there any competition yet for the Acrich2, that could be built, without a microscope and surface mount mumbo jumbo?

My Arich2 cluster isn't the prettiest thing, but it was fairly low tech. Honestly, all I had to add was heatsinks and some MOV's and fusible resistors for protection (per the Seoul app notes). No surface mount stuff to mess with.

The creativity was just about how to fit it under a lampshade and get it mounted to a harp. Oh.. I also tried to keep everything safe in the event that one of the parts goes "poof". Glass covers over the modules, etc.
Details are on my Flickr pages:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kurtsj00/sets/72157632507952012/

cost?
The modules,Seoul p/n SMJE2V08W1P3-GA, cost about $10 each from Digikey, and the heatsinks were Wakefield 518-95AB ($5 each from Digikey)
MOV: Bourns MOV-14D201K, Digikey # MOV-14D201K-ND, $0.20 ea.
Fusible resistors: Vishay NFR 0.25W part, Digikey #PPC22ACT-ND. $0.47 ea. Vishay p/n NFR2500002209JR500.
Roughly $50 total, not counting any labor, of course. :)

I think I saw a press release from Seoul Semi that they were upgrading the modules to more efficient LEDs, or maybe they got some more efficiency from their IC.

 

[wws944]

Feit has a remote phosphor bulb that is 150w (2200 lumen) equivalent: http://www.feit.com/led-lamps/General_Purpose

They also have a 3-way version of it, as mentioned here in the 3-way bulb thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...y-150W-max-equiv-LED-bulb-supposedly-at-Lowes

The 3-way version of it at least, is available at some Lowes locations for about $40.

 

[leona912]

My LED desk light is very bright, I bought it from Amazon, it's Dimmable LED Desk Lamp, Modern Style, 4 Colors & 4 Brightness Levels. Maybe the lumen is just 800l but bright enough the natural and non-flickering light of LED lights is good for my eyes. So I like to use LED bulbs when I am reading. For your reference you can check this lamp for reference and you can check the brightness.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OYYLM8/?tag=cpf0b6-20

 

[MichaelW]

That Feit bulb, really should be labeled as a 125 watt equivalent.
It is only 150 watt, if that is 150 watt 3-way.

 

[Trouthead]

I am mostly amazed that no one seems to come up with better ideas for CFLs. Harp size is a bit of a help, but harp shape would seems to work better. smaller bases on CFL would also help. I don't particularly like the old style floor lamp, and my wife said she hated it so that's not going to happen, but it is a good idea. The next time I order from Amazon I will try the Y adapter for two bulbs in one fixture. Someone is missing the boat with table/floor lamp design.I can't believe I am the only one that hates lamps with only 800 or so lumens. Now it looks like the companies are getting ready to do the same thing with LEDs. All poorly planned. Millions spent on research and no one figures that 800 lumens in a living room is not enough, and to add insult to injury no one looks at lamp fixtures to improve the situation at a big company level. Anyone try a harp extender. What a complete joke. That is the best world industry can come up with. We have Cree, Philips and other spending millions on bulb research and no one is spending a few thousand on HARP extenders. Wow that feels better getting it off my chest!

 

[Steve K]

I haven't seen the Feit bulb in person, but when I looked up the data on the 100W version, the dimensions appeared to be adequate to fit in my lamp harp. It's probably worth dropping in at Lowes and picking one up to evaluate.

 

[brickbat]

...just be patient.

LED lamps will be offered in higher output as efficacy increases. The problem is that with the current crop of 80-ish lumen/W LEDs, higher output lamps just have too much heat to dissipate. Sure it could be done, but it'd cost so much that the market would be tiny. Yes - higher efficacy LEDs are available now, but again they aren't in the sweet spot for a high-volume consumer product.

 

[wws944]

... Millions spent on research and no one figures that 800 lumens in a living room is not enough...

If you have a local Home Depot or Lowes, there are a number of options for > 800 lumens A19 (and in some cases A21) sized LED bulbs from manufacturers including Philips, Sylvania, Feit (Utilitech), and Cree. Lots of others are available from around the web as well.

CFLs are based on fairly mature 1930s lighting technology. I wouldn't expect them to improve much. LEDs are where the action is. Still lots of room for improvements.

 

[carnal]

I don't particularly like the old style floor lamp, but it is a good idea.

You could make a table lamp out of one. Or tell your wife, a floor lamp is an acceptable vice in your life, and deal with it.

I have seen table lamps on ebay that DO have multiple sockets...

Someone is missing the boat with table/floor lamp design.

I did find some extra wide harp bases that you could install under your socket, making your LOVED harp extenders unnecessary!
They'd give you much more room for the large CFL and LED lamp bases.

http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/product/4398_wide-lamp-harp-bases-18ip

My Arich2 cluster isn't the prettiest thing, but it was fairly low tech.
Roughly $50 total, not counting any labor, of course. :)

Your Franken-emitter array is beautiful! I like the dustproofing! Looks like you've made it explosion proof!
Thanks for the parts list and supplier!

I think I might build one, but I just cant decide on wattage and physical dimensions. I think I'd aim one array UP from the bottom of the rear of the shade, and another down from the rear of the top of lampshade. That way each array would wash against the front 180 deg of the shade from both directions, before heading out to the ceiling and floor. And you'd be guaranteed to never have direct light in your eyes.

I very much like lighting the ceiling and floor with direct light. It seems that many torcheries that DO allow light to hit the floor, BLOCK more than half of it with diffusers. (this I think is very stupid) Why not just let the unfiltered light hit the floor like "old school" lampshades allow. Also many lampshades (cone shaped) have a REALLY small opening at the top. Why would one think it IS desirable to trap all that light INSIDE the shade (at the top), and not let it out to illuminate the ceiling.

I think I saw a press release from Seoul Semi that they were upgrading the modules

YES! To think you can buy TODAY an array that puts out 1350 lumens at 135L/w WITHOUT a power supply for $20 is CrAzY TaLk!!!

Spending WAY too much time on Seoul, Digikey, & Mousers websites, I boiled a little info down...
Some NEW numbers for a few acrich2 arrays...

8.7w 27k 910L 104.6L/w 46mm disc $9
10w 27k 1200L 120L/w 100mm disc $23
17w 27k 1780L 104.7L/w 80mm disc $18

the 10 watter goes as high as 1350L for 135L/w (in a higher cct)

Keep the Franken-building! Your tri emitter is museum quality!!!
It motivates me to build one, from just looking at your photos of it!
Brian

ps the link to Seoul's Acrich2 listings...
http://www.seoulsemicon.com/en/html/Product/product_view_compare.asp?catecode=100204
choose your wattage on the left column of the website

pps Lynk Labs makes arrays also, some with "warm dimming". But good luck on actually getting them to sell you one!
http://www.lynklabs.com/images/SR114-20WD-120 20W Warm-On-Dim Product Summary.pdf

 

[Fresh Light]

When I bought my house it was full of Energy Saver 55watt incans. I guess they save you 5 watts over the 60 watt bulbs. Well, I went ahead and changed them all out with 2700K CFLs. For the most part I've been happy with them with the exception of their very long warm up period. They seem to take well over 1 min before they are at full brightness. In my outdoor deck area I put up some CFL flood lights that are basically unusable in the winter when the temps drop below freezing, and winter temps do drop below neg 25F.

I bought one of the Cree LED 60W warm colorequiv from Home Depot just to try out and I've been very pleased with it. It seems brighter than the CFLs and obviously doesn't have any warm up time. Now I know Cree has fairly recently introduced their 75W equiv. I understand this light is pretty much the same as the 60w version but is driven with more current to give an extra 300 lumens. But it hasn't yet been energystar certified like the lesser version. So I understand with energy star certification the price will decrease. but it is about 24.00 now.

 

[easilyled]

Trouthead, I know very little about fixed lighting in relation to leds. (I am more excited about their use in portable applications)

I have a P60 drop-in using the MT-G2 that is capable of putting out well over 2000 lumens (I'm only using 2 li-ion cells to power it)

In addition. it produces a really nice tint (like sunlight).

If these became widely available in fixed-light applications, I have no doubt that you'd be both pleased and impressed.

 

[Trouthead]

Bought some y adapters. Pretty cheap and a good solution for at least one lamp. Also ordered (they haven't arrived yet) some extra wide harp bases. those two items along with extra long harps should allow me to get the lumens I would like with 1/2 or 1/3 the wattage. Thanks to all you guys for the ideas.

 

[Skimo]

I had a multiple arm lamp, I think 6 arms all flexible, I fitted it with LED lights, a flood light, a LED "mood" light and one or two regular 60w bulbs.

I liked it because I could go from low light to lighting up the other side of the shack I was living in and as a reader getting the right angle of a light helps reduce eye strain.