Solving a Misfire in a Sable/Taurus...

LEDAdd1ct

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I didn't know that.

I thought keeping the RPM count down was healthier for the engine.

I usually try and keep it at 2000 RPM or lower.
 

FlashKat

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Lower RPM's are not as hard on the engine parts, but low RPM's allow for build up of carbon and other junk in the catalytic converter and other areas that need to be blown out once in awhile.
I didn't know that.

I thought keeping the RPM count down was healthier for the engine.

I usually try and keep it at 2000 RPM or lower.
 

mvyrmnd

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Lower RPM's are not as hard on the engine parts, but low RPM's allow for build up of carbon and other junk in the catalytic converter and other areas that need to be blown out once in awhile.

Low RPM's are harder on some parts like bearings. 2500-3000RPM is usually the "sweet spot" where load, power, torque and economy are at a good balance.

This is different for all engines, of course. Usually a good sweet spot is the RPM the engine is running at when in top gear at highway speed. This has to be high enough not to lug the engine, but not so high as to cause excessive wear or fuel consumption.

Personally I drive my cars based on their best torque. My Mondeo XR5 Turbo (uses a Volvo T5 motor) I drive between 2000-4500 RPM, as those are the best speeds to get the most out of the turbo.

I drive my Rav4 at 4000-6500 RPM because it's a hateful little sh!tbox with no power at all that my work provides me and I don't care for it or pay for the fuel.
 
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orbital

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+

...a few times per week, exercise that engine to keep her clean
also, avoid ethanol blend fuel if possible*

*probably the most important thing here
 

pageyjim

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I haven't read the whole thread yet but there is a great forum for Taurus/Sable car owners. http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/. They will be very helpful. With the problems you describe I would also look at the camshaft position sensor. It is a common problem on these cars and is relatively an inexpensive fix. You will find that these cars have many common problems. Usually the engine will last forever but are prone to transmission problems, rust, heater core etc. Again I strongly rec checking out the forum. Good luck, keep us updated.[h=1][/h]
 

FlashKat

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V6 & V8 engines normally don't run at high RPM. Also if an engine is designed properly lower RPM puts less load on the bearings with proper oil pressure.
Low RPM's are harder on some parts like bearings. 2500-3000RPM is usually the "sweet spot" where load, power, torque and economy are at a good balance.

This is different for all engines, of course. Usually a good sweet spot is the RPM the engine is running at when in top gear at highway speed. This has to be high enough not to lug the engine, but not so high as to cause excessive wear or fuel consumption.

Personally I drive my cars based on their best torque. My Mondeo XR5 Turbo (uses a Volvo T5 motor) I drive between 2000-4500 RPM, as those are the best speeds to get the most out of the turbo.

I drive my Rav4 at 4000-6500 RPM because it's a hateful little sh!tbox with no power at all that my work provides me and I don't care for it or pay for the fuel.
 

Deathscreton

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So I've been watching this thread for only god knows how long and it seems me and the OP are having the same issue. I have a '99 Sable GS that was sold to me under the pretenses that it was "fully functional". My friends laughed and pointed at me saying that because it was a Ford that I shouldn't have expected much. Har. Har. Har.

In any case, my car has been giving me plenty of issues since I purchased it. Most noteably three missfires, on both sides of the engine. 2 3 and 6 I believe. I've already checked the spark plugs and wires. I was gonna replace the EGR valve and ignition coil next. I was hoping it was one of those two problems.

BUT, before I even shelled out any money on this thing, stuff got worse. Gas started leaking underneathe the intake manifold. So now I've got a car the leaks gas, misfires on three cylinders, rides rough and stalls every now and then when you come to a complete stop or turn the wheel to the left or right extreme.

Personally, I want to trash the thing and just get a new car, but I don't have the cash, nor credit, nor time to do that. So I have to work with what I have.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Oh man, that sounds horrible.

I am really sorry.

Hope while you are here you get some quality flashlight reading in.

I ran two bottles of SeaFoam through my system.

After driving about 500 miles in one day (had a great tour and saw some awesome scenery)
the tank went to "E". I filled it.

When that tank was 75% full, the light came on again.

So, it appears the SeaFoam did nothing.

Oh, well.

It was on sale for eight bucks a bottle.

It was fun pouring eight dollars through a pretty blue funnel. :)

I don't know why, though. I've always found funnels fascinating.

Whenever I look at a depiction of a black hole where all the grid lines
squish together, it gives me this feeling of otherworldly creepiness...
 

Frijid

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Just a suggestion, but give a product called "star tron" a try. After i've been using it, i've since trashed my love for seafoam. You can get it at any GOOD auto parts store.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Interesting.

There seem to be a number of different formulas out there.

Can you recommend a specific product part or code...?
 

Frijid

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The one i've used is just called enzyme fuel treatment. On the initial dose it's 1oz to 3 gallons, then after that dosages run 1oz to 6 gallons. i think the bottle is 8oz's? I've always gotten mine at advance auto or kmart's. Not sure if walmart carries it. Their is like 3 formulas, 1 for gas, 1 for diesel and 1 for a tank cleaner. the one for gas is the one you'd want. It does some in different sizes and such, from a small "shot glass" size for a one time use up to like a gallon size. It's defiantly worth a shot, cause after i used it for about a month i stopped using anything else. Not to mention it was the only thing i ever used that fixed the hot start issue i had with my 85 RX-7. When it was cold, it would start in a heartbeat. when the motor was hot and set for about 5 minutes, it would start in a heart beat also. But when the motor was hot, and it sat for about half an hour, you would sometimes have to hold the gas pedal down halfway-3/4 way in and crank for about 5 seconds. I tried seafoam, marvel mystery oil, lucas, gumout, etc. nothing work. After half a tank of star tron, it cured it and the problem hasn't came back. I talked to the guy i sold it to about a month ago and he said it's still doing good, so it worked for me So defiantly give star tron a try. If it's anything "minor" you can give these "mechanic in a cans" a try. but if it's something "major" like being outta time, coil, etc then these "liquid mechanic" products may help or mask it, but probably won't cure it. If you need me to upload a picture of the bottle i'm talking about just let me know and i'll post a picture of it, but it shouldn't be hard to find. And if you go to an auto parts store, you may have to locate it yourself. I went to the stores here and asked if they sold it and the majority of the people there said they didn't sell it and had never heard of it, but lo and behold i looked for myself and they did sell it.
 
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LEDAdd1ct

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When you have the time, if you could upload a picture here it would definitely be useful:

http://postimage.org/

It is free, anonymous, and quick.

And yes, I agree; the liquid cleaners/solvents probably won't solve anything "major" but may
help loosen gunk or solve issues stemming from gunk or other detritus being where it shouldn't.
 

Frijid

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http://s9.postimg.org/lwe86azjz/0000031053fa0ef.jpg

Just had a star tron success story today. I had a pad lock on my toolbox of my truck, the key snapped inside it so i couldn't get it off. So, i had to cut it off. I remembered i hadn't started my generator up in about 6 months, so i really needed to run it and at the same time use my angel grinder to grind the lock off. (I could have just plugged it into an extension cord, but i just wanted to use the generator) So i mix up some gas and oil for it (it's a 2 cycle generator) and i pour in some fresh gas and oil. Start it up, let it warm up and i plugged a box fan into it and let it ran for about 10 minutes, just letting it run to keep it "in shape" well, i then plug in the angle grinder and turn it on, and the generator dies down really far, almost to the point of turning off. This is unusual, because i've used the grinder before when i took the generator with me to my camp when i was working on a project i was making and it handle it before. So i unplug it, and plug the fan back in and let it run some more. At this point, i thought it was just due to where i hadn't ran it for half a year. So i let it run another 10-15 minutes, plug the grinder in and turn it on, same thing. It handled the fan just fine because it wasn't pulling that many watts. the grinder pulls 550 watts and the generator can handle 800 watts. So i took the cap back off the generator, pour in just a little bit of star tron. Put the cap back on the generator, and rock it back and forth for mix up the gas and star tron. I turn it back on, hook the fan up and let it run for 25 minutes (I kept time) Unhooked the fan, plugged in the grinder and turned it on and it ran like normal. so i cut the lock off. waited about 30 seconds and hit the grinder again, and it worked perfect. My guess was the crap ethanol gas gummed up the jet or fuel line. So i turned the generator off. went back about 6 hours later and fired it back up, let it warm up, and hit the grinder again, and was just as good. I have the utmost confidence that if your vehicle is messing up do to fuel related problems, carbon, or anything related to that, star tron will fix it. I've read on their website that it will also keep your spark plugs clean. and like i said, it was the only thing that fixed the hot start issue i was having with my RX-7. And as with all cleaners, it's best to when you use them, to run them at interstate speeds to really get the stuff "flowing." I can't count how many times i've seen people pour cleaners into their gas tank, drive 10 miles, then complain the stuff doesn't work. Another thing where people mess up with cleaners is they water it down by getting gas to much. Like they fill up and pour in some cleaner. Drive about a 1/4 of the tank down, then fill back up with gas, which is just watering down the chemical. I run star tron every time i fill up. It says on the bottle over dosing isn't harmful. I've used the red stabil in the past and would have issues of the lines having a red "slime" that would get built up inside them and inside the carb. Though stabil is coming out with a new product called "360", i'm just curious as to how good it will be.
 
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Frijid

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Here is an additive desinged for compression problems.

http://www.restoreusa.com/faq.html

YES! restore, thank you. I was thinking hard last night trying to remember the name of that product that raises compression. for some reason i was thinking it was rislone. I've heard it (restore) works wonders and can even fill in holes in the cylinder walls raising compression.
 
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