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SR 450 A "volume control"

artec540

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 7, 2008
Messages
276
I've just received my SR 450A and I'm wondering if anyone else has the same concern?
The knob that controls the light level, the volume control so to speak, seems vulnerable to me. I have no idea how stalwart the spindle is but the knob sticks out a lot and I'm afraid of breaking it off, bending it or committing some other form of mayhem to it. When the light arrived I started thinking of ways in which the knob could be protected and wonder whether other owners, or buyers, agree and/or think such protection would be desirable or necessary?
It appears that SR 1500 has two such knobs. I have no idea whether they perform two different functions or if we have two knobs doing the same thing?
I wouldn't presume to do a review and look forward to reading one when some-one posts one.
 
I haven't had to much though on my Peaks about that, true it does stick out a bit but on the SR450A the heat sink fins kinda protect it in a way. the only concern i ever though of is the play in the knob that it kinda wobbles a bit. Most of the time i have a lanyard on mine and my thumb is resting on the knob.
 
The knob has a smaller turned internal bore diameter of 0.375 inches to a depth of 0.125 inches. That fits onto a brass
part with a 0.370 diameter projection, that brass part is press fitted into the aluminum electronics housing. The pot is
screwed into that same brass part. When everything is assembled we then fill the inside of the electronics
compartment with a heat conductive epoxy. In two years of manufacture, we have never had a problem
with that method of assembly. The pot has an internal silicon o-ring around the shaft and we put in an additional
o-ring that also serves to add additional drag to the control. If it didn't wobble it wouldn't turn.

The SR1500 has the same light output control as the smaller FR series and the SR450. The additional control is
the power on/off switch that is opposite of the light control. That way when you hold the SR1500 with your thumb
on the light control, your fore finger can be on the on-off switch.

Curt
 
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Curt, I'm having trouble visualizing what you're describing. Do you have a cross-section image of the assembly you could post? I think this is one of those situations where a picture is worth a thousand reassuring words.
 
The knob has a smaller turned internal bore diameter of 0.375 inches to a depth of 0.125 inches. That fits onto a brass
part with a 0.370 diameter projection, that brass part is press fitted into the aluminum electronics housing. The pot is
screwed into that same brass part. When everything is assembled we then fill the inside of the electronics
compartment with a heat conductive epoxy. In two years of manufacture, we have never had a problem
with that method of assembly. The pot has an internal silicon o-ring around the shaft and we put in an additional
o-ring that also serves to add additional drag to the control. If it didn't wobble it wouldn't turn.

The SR1500 has the same light output control as the smaller FR series and the SR450. The additional control is
the power on/off switch that is opposite of the light control. That way when you hold the SR1500 with your thumb
on the light control, your fore finger can be on the on-off switch.

Curt


Hi Curt.
Thank you for your nice clear explanation, which I understand.
I guess I'm not worrying about normal use, but more about dropping the light, or bashing it against something, in a way that would have no ill effect if there were no volume control or if the volume control were a control ring round the light body. From the dimensions you gave, and from the fact that you've had no-one bending the stem, I guess I'm worrying about nothing.
I like the sound of the controls on the SR1500, but then I've always hated tailcap switches..... in fact the placement of the volume control is one of the reason I bought the SR 450. If you offer a shorter version of the 1500, I might get one instead of the 450..... Do you plan to?
 
The problem is with batteries, with the FR1200, two 18650 batteries are marginal. With the power draw requirements
of the SR1500, two 18650 batteries will not work. Three in a row with a narrow battery compartment and a large head
might look funny. The 26 mm batteries do not have a button top, so they would have to be welded together and have
a dedicated charger. Three 18650 batteries in a parallel configuration would require a special battery holder and the
battery compartment would be 2 inches in diameter. The 'M' cell that we are using is explosion proof and is of industrial
quality, unlike all of the cheap 18650 batteries. The 17670 batteries do not have the capacity.

Other than an SLA battery, that is about that. Any ideas?

Curt
 
The problem is with batteries, with the FR1200, two 18650 batteries are marginal. With the power draw requirements
of the SR1500, two 18650 batteries will not work. Three in a row with a narrow battery compartment and a large head
might look funny. The 26 mm batteries do not have a button top, so they would have to be welded together and have
a dedicated charger. Three 18650 batteries in a parallel configuration would require a special battery holder and the
battery compartment would be 2 inches in diameter. The 'M' cell that we are using is explosion proof and is of industrial
quality, unlike all of the cheap 18650 batteries. The 17670 batteries do not have the capacity.

Other than an SLA battery, that is about that. Any ideas?

Curt[/QUOT

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. If we need three 18650s, I take it they are wired in series? What about putting them in the holder side by side by side, two of them heads up and one head down, then you don't need a cartridge, you just need really clear labeling. The Neofab Legion II works like that. I have one and would be happy to lend it to you if that would help? The battery housing is fat, yes, 41.4 mm (1.64 inches), but for myself, I'd much rather have that a battery tube long enough for three 18650s.
What do you think?
 
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