ssc p7 questions

Vin and Iout are specced ok, but I've got no idea if this one actually delivers. If it matches its specs, just heatsink it and you're set. I've got no idea how you'll control it; hopefully it won't be too ugly.

Anyone else? I haven't used this one myself.
 
Vin and Iout are specced ok, but I've got no idea if this one actually delivers. If it matches its specs, just heatsink it and you're set. I've got no idea how you'll control it; hopefully it won't be too ugly.

Anyone else? I haven't used this one myself.

Control it? I thought the driver regulated the current? So this wont do the trick huh? Sorry for the stupid questions. Im still wet behind the ears

;)
 
Go with a D bin P7 if you can.

And yeah that set up will work great for you. The SB board controls current, it is a good board to work with. The wiring is pretty straight forward.

Go with 3 batteries. It will run a long time with 3 D nimh's.

Any P7 heatsink will work well, H22, britelumens, etc.

This same set up with an SST-50 will do better :) just a hint. same everything just a different led and heatsink. Cost is close, but a bit more.
 
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I might have a problem. The light is husky 2 d cell not three. Will 2 d batteries provide enough current to power the p7?
 
Put 2 li-ions in it and a buck driver and you're good.
that shiningbeam driver is really good.
you could also just make yourself a spacer and put a 18650 in your mag.
 
Buck driver would be your option with 2 cells but then running it at any decent amount of amps goes out the window. The majority of buck drivers out dont work as well as we would hope. And you have to change your battery type to Lion.

If you have a 2 cell husky light the first thing I would say is just get a 3D mag for 20 bucks it will be easier than redoing all of your planning on this build. Then you can fit 3 cells and you are back where you need to be. And I know that 20 bucks is a lot these days...
 
what about if used an AA to D adapter. it holds 2 aa's so I would be looking at 4.8 volts
 
You can put 3 C nimh cells, and make a sleeve to keep them from rattling
 
I might have a problem. The light is husky 2 d cell not three. Will 2 d batteries provide enough current to power the p7?

Using this light rather than a Maglite may be a bit more challenging, since there are several ready made parts to mod a maglite, and none to do this one.

current yes, voltage no

What he said.

Put 2 li-ions in it and a buck driver and you're good.
that shiningbeam driver is really good.
you could also just make yourself a spacer and put a 18650 in your mag.

I realize what is being implied here is a buck driver or the SB driver, but just to be clear do not use 2x li-ion with the SB driver.

The SB driver is one of the best, and the cheapest P7 drivers available. 3.6-4.8 volts is best with this driver.

what about if used an AA to D adapter. it holds 2 aa's so I would be looking at 4.8 volts

Most of the 2 AA adapters I have seen are 2 cells in paralell not 2 cells in series, so its likely that you would only get double the run time and not double the voltage. What adapters specifically are you talking about?

You can put 3 C nimh cells, and make a sleeve to keep them from rattling

This is a good solution, but it may not work in the Husky light the way it does in a Mag. Even in a Mag in order to use 3 C cells you have to recess the tail spring.

A couple of other thoughts on modding this light if you decide to go ahead with it.

I have not modded a 2 D husky, but I would imagine its about the same as a 2C. I have done one of these, and if I recall the existing led is on a fairly thick aluminum heat sink that is screwed into the head. I recommend getting p7 on a PCB and using thermal epoxy to glue it to the factory pill. There may be a ring on the top of the factory pill that you will have to grind down to get the PCB of the P7 to sit down flat, I don't remember though.

To get the voltage of the light up to where it needs to be there are several good options.

Your idea of the AA adapters is good if they are serial. If not Kaidomain sells some low grade 3AA to 1 D adapters if you want to go cheap. I dont recommend them though because of the high resistance (they dont allow a lot of current to pass through). Use 2 dummy AAs and 4 NIMH.

There are also some quality 6AA to 2 D adapters available on CPF that may fit your light.

Finally if you have any li-ion cells like an 18650 or a C li-ion, one of these and a spacer would also work fine.

Hope this helps.:D
 
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thanks for the input everyone. found a 3d maglite at Lowes for 15.88. Now my dad might have a 4d mag lite. should I use the 3d or 4d?
 
3 D is plenty big for what you are doing. If you use the Shiningbeam driver, and get 3 D nimh cells you could run it on MAX for 4 hours. On low you could turn it on, and come back a couple of days later and your light would still be on:twothumbs.
 
So I have not purchased any parts yet (still researching). Now here's my question. If I use the driver from sb max current output is 2500 but If I drive the led directly I could provide more current. So will I notice any difference from 2500 mah to 3000mah? Also what about run time?
 
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Go with the SB board, replace LED- and LED+ wires with 24 gauge wire. The small gauge wire that comes pre-soldered on those boards is just one more source of added resistance. That should get you up to 2.8A. If you want more, order some AMC7135 boards from DX or Kaidomain, and pull one of the 7135 chips from that board and stack it on top of a 7135 chip on the SB board. That should get you up to roughly 3.1-3.2A @ the tail cap. You're using more energy, so runtime would decrease.
 
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So I have not purchased any parts yet (still researching). Now here's my question. If I use the driver from sb max current output is 2500 but If I drive the led directly I could provide more current. So will I notice any difference from 2500 mah to 3000mah? Also what about run time?

No you will not really see a difference with your eye usually. P7 reaches its max output pretty close to the 2.5 the SB board puts out. It is actually more than 2.5a so dont be discouraged by the "rating".

I used this board unmodified with a slave 1400ma board and it did 4.2a. So that says that the SB board 2.8a.
 
Thanks for the quick replies ti-force and Mettee. The two of you answered my only concerns I had left about this mod. Now Its time to make my purchase.

My purchase list

1. Mag 3d lite from lowes 16.88
2. shining beam driver 6.95
3. Deluxe Mag D heatsink / P7 DSWOJ combo $43.00 from brite lumens
4. NiCd D Size 5000 mAh Rechargeable battery Button from 4.54*3 http://www.all-battery.com/
total about 80.55 :faint: This is an expensive mod.
 
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