Stiff SF E2E switch normal?

[GreenArcher]

Hello all,

I am new to the forum and recently bought several flashlights. Two of them are the SF G2 Yellow and SF E2E-HA. After playing with the two lights, it is really annoying me now that I have to put extra pressure on the tail-switch of the E2E to keep it momentarily lit. I can barely use my pointing finger and thumb to sustain the pressure for more than 3 seconds without the lit flickering (too much work to maintain the pressure). It seems to be a lot more tiring the the G2 switch. Is this normal?

The SF G2 that I have requires very little pressure to light up. A tap on the tail switch is enough for it. The required pressure can easily be maintain by my pointing finger, more so with my thumb.

I would estimate that the E2E requires at least 5x more pressure than the G2 to maintain the momentary on. I have to use the lower part of my thumb instead of the pad to apply the pressure. However, the E2E tail switch is at least 3x easier to rotate.

Btw, I made sure that the switch is rotated enough to almost engaged the light to ON when comparing both. I noticed that this affects how much pressure is required.

Ian

 

[flownosaj]

[ QUOTE ]
GreenArcher said:
Btw, I made sure that the switch is rotated enough to almost engaged the light to ON when comparing both. I noticed that this affects how much pressure is required.


[/ QUOTE ]

Well, a quarter turn counter-clockwisefrom the "on" position should make a pretty easy momentary "on". Being that you've already done that, the only thing I can think of is to make sure that the head is tightened all the way down. After that seems to be a call to SF and in the words of someone more knowledgeable than me,"explore your options."

-Jason

 

[SUREFARC]

The E1e switch is even stiffer. I don't like it and am waiting for the clickie.

 

[shrap]

My E2e switch is also quite stiff. It makes me wonder if CombatGrip Surefires are also stiff: it would be difficult to use them in the "syringe" grip.

 

[artar]

same here too. my E2e switch is very stiff. no need to lock-out.
in comparison, my E2 (not e) has a very easy switch.

 

[sunspot]

I use the twist style on my E2e and the momentary on the G2. You are right in that the E2e tailswitch is to stiff.

 

[SteveD]

My E2e switch is stiff, unless I turn in the cap until it almost lights - then it is very easy. I like it stiff most of the time because I use a full grip, and I don't want it turning on unintentionally.

I think they are meant to be stiff. If I understand correctly, the syringe grip was meant to be used with the combat/weapon lights that have the rings. Even then, you activate the light by pullin it into your palm. This is much easier to do than pressing with an outstretched thumb.

 

[chamenos]

shrap: the switches on the combatlights is the same as the other two cell surefires with the exception of the E series. the spring is much softer and easier to press than the E2/E2e switches /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

steved: actually pressing the switch with your thumb is easier than pulling it into your palm with the surefire/roger technique. having a lotc on the E series lights is actually a bit redundant, considering how stiff the springs are. the only advantage is the added water-resistance /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[stangster]

What's wrong with it being stiff? In a pressure situation, with all that adrenaline pumping through you, you're going to be glad it's stiff.

 

[GreenArcher]

So I get the feeling that it is normal for the SF E2E to be stiffer than other Surefires. I was kinda hoping it would be like the G2. I can see how it may be different since the E2E is a higher end flashlight than the G2.

 

[shrap]

GreenArcher,

The E2e is not a "higher end flashlight" than the G2, in terms of the spring stiffness.

chamenos has stated that the G2 would have a more similar switch to all the non-E2e lights, such as the c2, m2, etc.

The stiffer spring is probably because the E2e wasn't designed primarily for 'tactical' considerations, and may be simply dropped in a pocket or purse, where a softer switch would cause the light to turn on, causing damage to both the light and things near it.

It sounds like Surefire had a few complaints about the original E2's switch, and changed it for the E2e.

 

[pahl]

Interesting post, I just posted a photo request of a E2e next to a G2 and also asked about the switch. Then I read this post.
I really like the switch on my G2. Reading this post makes me wonder if I would like the switch on the E2e or not.
I guess there is only one way to find out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[chamenos]

shrap is correct....having a stiffer spring was more of a design decision rather than a more expensive option /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[llvo]

The E1e/E2e already have lock-out function. Why stiff?

My KL1 flickers whenever I press the button: due to bad connection created by stiff spring

 

[shrap]

Locking-out the light is not an option if I have to do it every time I put the light in my pocket, bag, purse, etc.

I have no problem with the stiff switch. It's not too much trouble to twist the switch to get constant on. I'm afraid a clicky would cause me to leave the light constant-on more, and use up more 123's.

My E2e also flickers, but it's due to my thumb getting tired. Your KL1's flickering may also be caused by the regulation to the LS. If the batteries are tired, the regulator struggles to get enough juice from the batteries, and thus flickers.

 

[brightnorm]

Re: Stiff SF E2E switch normal? *DELETED*

Post deleted by brightnorm

 

[kz1000s1]

I've also used the Brightnorm fix on my E2e and L1. It does help. My 6P also has a lighter spring. My theory is that the larger models can get away a lighter spring because the larger body diameter can better protect the button from accidental activation.

Can't wait for the clickie. The one I tried at the SHOT Show wasn't very stiff.

 

[emann]

I have no problems with my E2e. Maybe some of you just need to exercise those fingers a little more often. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

 

[chamenos]

[ QUOTE ]
kz1000s1 said:
My theory is that the larger models can get away a lighter spring because the larger body diameter can better protect the button from accidental activation.

[/ QUOTE ]

it could be that the stiffer spring is necessary because the LA does not have a spring like the P60/P61 LAs. as such the tailcap spring of the E2e probably has to be stiffer in order to support the weight of the batteries and ensure good contact. in the other surefire lights, any slack the tailcap spring exhibits can be taken up by the LA spring...just a theory /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

if you try taking a multiple D or C cell (ideally 3 or more) light and hold it by the head whilst swinging it downwards hard, the light will go off for a fraction of a second. the E2e spring was probably made stiffer to avoid this. with springs oh both ends, it probably wouldn't matter even if the springs were not stiff at all.

 

[Kill-O-Zap]

What I find really STINKS about the E2e switch (haven't tried other Surefires) is not so much the stiffness of the spring, but the fact that the light is on only when the switch hits bottom. If you let up at all, the light goes out. To prevent flickering, you have to press down very hard, so as to be sure you never lift off at all; there's no "leeway". This does not have to be the case, and in fact, is not the case in with most clickies. Every clickie I've tried feels better in "momentary" mode than the E switch does. By far (IMO).

Like everyone else, I anxiously await the E series clickie. I just hope it's not a bulky monstrosity; no bigger than the LOTC, I hope. Otherwise, I'd probably rather have one of McGizmo's Kroll for E series.