SureFire C2 w/ 2SM Deree Module - only 1 mode works

[RichS]

Anyone have any ideas of how I can get both modes to work on my 2SM Deree module with my C2?

I got my C2 Centurion tonight (awesome light BTW), and put my Dereelight 2SM module in it with the batteries positive toward the tailcap. I turned it on and it worked, but only in low mode. Momentary action worked as well, but twisting the tailcap full tight still only activated the low mode. I assumed the spring wasn't being fully pressed against the center contact on the pill, so I put a small ball of aluminum foil inside the spring. Turned it on and bam - high mode!

Unfortunately I can't get both the high and the low modes to work on the C2. I tried using a little less foil so there was more space between the foil and the center contact post, but still only high mode activated.

A couple of shots (those Deree modules do have one bright hotspot!):

 

[Mercaptan]

From Deree's website:

• change level by twist head, tighten on high, loose on low
• can lock on any stage
• positive towards tailcap

That means you won't be able to switch modes by the tailswitch. I hope you knew this when you bought it. The M in SM stands for Manual, in that the modes are not changed digitally (i.e. tailswitch) but rather through a manual manipulation of the module itself (i.e. tightening/loosening the head).

Try unscrewing the C2's head a little bit while the pill is on to see what happens.

 

[RichS]

From Deree's website:

• change level by twist head, tighten on high, loose on low
• can lock on any stage
• positive towards tailcap

That means you won't be able to switch modes by the tailswitch. I hope you knew this when you bought it. The M in SM stands for Manual, in that the modes are not changed digitally (i.e. tailswitch) but rather through a manual manipulation of the module itself (i.e. tightening/loosening the head).

Try unscrewing the C2's head a little bit while the pill is on to see what happens.

Thanks. I understand how the module works - I have both their digital and manual modules. If you connect to the tip of the spring on the module you get low, and when it compresses and makes contact with the center post you get high.

I was hoping that the tail cap on the C2 (being a twisty) would have enough distance to connect for low, and then further twisting would push the spring further to make contact with the center post to give me high. Unfortunately this isn't working for me. If I twist slightly, I get nothing until I twist enough to get high.

I tried unscrewing the head, and even if I just slightly unscrew it, it turns off completely. It's probably because it's breaking contact due to it's anodized threads - so that's not an option. Come to think of it, the tail cap threads are also anodized (for lock-out), so screwing/unscrewing is also going to be completely an on/off situation. And the rear button doesn't have enough travel to activate the low and then high modes.

So it's a single mode...that works too!

 

[Mercaptan]

I wonder if you could clip the spring length so that the distance of travel between 'low' and 'high' mode is small enough to compensate for the limited, bared contact surface of the C2.

*shrugs*

 

[jsr]

You need to short the LED Module's spring to its center post. Try soldering a small wire from the spring to the center post, or any other method of shorting it. But this way, you'll only get high (which may work for you as it doesn't sound like you *need* 2-modes).

Otherwise, another (more permanent) thing you can try is shorten the spring on the LED Module so that it requires less travel to contact the center post. You may need a spacer to lengthen the batteries, or increase the length of the SF tailcap spring. But even then, it will be between the spring rate of the SF tailcap spring vs. the LED Module spring. Whichever is stiffer will compress the other first and you still may not get both modes. Unless you replace the tailcap spring with a very stiff spring.

 

[Paul5M]

Thanks. I understand how the module works - I have both their digital and manual modules. If you connect to the tip of the spring on the module you get low, and when it compresses and makes contact with the center post you get high.

I was hoping that the tail cap on the C2 (being a twisty) would have enough distance to connect for low, and then further twisting would push the spring further to make contact with the center post to give me high. Unfortunately this isn't working for me. If I twist slightly, I get nothing until I twist enough to get high.

I tried unscrewing the head, and even if I just slightly unscrew it, it turns off completely. It's probably because it's breaking contact due to it's anodized threads - so that's not an option. Come to think of it, the tail cap threads are also anodized (for lock-out), so screwing/unscrewing is also going to be completely an on/off situation. And the rear button doesn't have enough travel to activate the low and then high modes.

So it's a single mode...that works too!

Cool! That's a clever design :thumbsup:
I need to get one of these.
I think, you'll need a clicky tailcap Z48/Z58 for it to work properly.

 

[RichS]

Cool! That's a clever design :thumbsup:
I need to get one of these.
I think, you'll need a clicky tailcap Z48/Z58 for it to work properly.

I think this might be exactly what I need. Does anyone know if the Z58 has enough travel for this application? It seems like the momentary on will bring the light on low, and then fully depressed and clicked on will bring the light on high with this module - which would be perfect! Does anyone have the Z58 tailcap that can confirm the travel distance?

 

[Paul5M]

I think this might be exactly what I need. Does anyone know if the Z58 has enough travel for this application? It seems like the momentary on will bring the light on low, and then fully depressed and clicked on will bring the light on high with this module - which would be perfect! Does anyone have the Z58 tailcap that can confirm the travel distance?

It's not what I meant. You'll still need to loosen/tighten the head to change lo/hi.

 

[RichS]

It's not what I meant. You'll still need to loosen/tighten the head to change lo/hi.

Ok, I'm really confused - sorry for my ignorance. But I don't think I will be able to loosen/tighten the head because if it is loose at all the light won't come on because the connection is broken. How will a different tail cap change this? I can see how a tail cap button with larger travel will first activate the light (low), then push the spring far enough forward on the pill to touch the post and activate high. What am I missing here?

 

[Paul5M]

Ok, I'm really confused - sorry for my ignorance. But I don't think I will be able to loosen/tighten the head because if it is loose at all the light won't come on because the connection is broken.

Unless your lamp has no outer spring.

 

[RichS]

Unless your lamp has no outer spring.

Unfortunately for me in this case, unlike SureFire modules, none of the Dereelight modules have an outer spring.

 

[Paul5M]

Unfortunately for me in this case, unlike SureFire modules, none of the Dereelight modules have an outer spring.

In this case, you have to go to plan "B"
.
.
.
Shock isolated bezel (M2 bezel/Z32)

 

[RichS]

In this case, you have to go to plan "B"
.
.
.
Shock isolated bezel (M2 bezel/Z32)

Sounds like a plan, thanks. I really like the look of the M2 bezel anyway. I had a hard time deciding between the C2 and M2, but went with the C2 because you get more spill (reflector closer to surface). I really didn't care for the look of the Z32 bezel when I looked it up.

Any idea where I can get an M2 bezel? I couldn't find it listed anywhere on SureFire's website.

 

[Paul5M]

In this case, you have to go to plan "B"
.
.
.
Shock isolated bezel (M2 bezel/Z32)

You'll have to mod the bezel (remove the foam) and install an outer spring on the lamp. I think the shock isolated bezel is deep enough.

 

[dmz]

You can just get a Dealextreme drop in for a low price:

Ultrafire Cree, Regulator, Reflector 1x18650 2xCR123A Lamp Assembly
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1343
$9.87 accepted voltage: 3.6V ~ 9.0V 900mAh regulator board

3W Cree, Regulator, Reflector 1x18650 2xCR123A Module Set
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1447
$11.95 accepted voltage: 3.6V ~ 9.0V 900mAh regulator board
The original $12.50 one.

DX 3W Cree Module CM1
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3214
$11.18 3.2V~9.0V Input
Beamshots + review at: http://www.lightreviews.info/reviews.html

SSC 42180-T 3W Emitter Reflector Driver Module
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4068
$12.54 Input voltage: 3.7V ~ 8.0V Current: 900mA

3W Cree Drop-in Module (supports Surefire 6P)
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6090
$10.14 3V~18V

Cree 5-Mode Emitter Reflector and Driver Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4296
$13.35 Typical driving voltage: 3.7V (maximum voltage: 4.2V. Do not exceed.)

Cree Drop-in Module for Surefire 6P
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6076
$10.00 Voltage Range: 2.9V ~ 9V

Cree Drop-in Module
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7162 - Thanks Legtu
$12.48 Ultrafire 4-Mode 3.7V~6V

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Go to this thread for more info:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=184749

 

[RichS]

Thanks DMZ, I appreciate it. I wanted to use the Deree module mainly because of the nice big and deep reflector, and because I have two spare 2SMs since I recently purchased and am using the 3 SD modules in my Dereelights.

The module is working fine on high mode, and I think by adding the outer spring I'll even be able to get both modes out of it. I'm going to call Surefire this week and see if they'll send me one.

I appreciate all the help. :thumbsup:

- Rich

 

[dmz]

I found this thread:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=171979

With the SF M2 bezel, spill is somewhat limited due to the reflector seating very deep in the bezel. On a C2 bezel the spill availability in much more improved as the reflector is further near to the window.


Does a SF M2 bezel have significantly less spill than a C2 bezel? Any one have beamshots?