Surefire combat rings in use*pics*

Interesting. I need to get some of those to see how good they are.

I do notice that the Kroma/U2 series unit seems to be a bit off angle for proper use of the Thorpe technique. I wonder if this would be more effective with a smaller/lighter 2x123 light.

-Steve
 
Notice the TAD T.I.D. on the front of the U2. With that on the front and that light hold technique I would think that would be awkward to control.
 
[ I wonder if this would be more effective with a smaller/lighter 2x123 light.

-Steve[/quote]
Any idea if that would fit a Novatac?
 
Notice the TAD T.I.D. on the front of the U2. With that on the front and that light hold technique I would think that would be awkward to control.

It is. When I did my pictorial post on the different techniques, the largest flashlight that I could successfully use with the Thorpe was a smaller 2x123 light like a 6P or G2.

I've tried a 9Z with it - forget it. So if a 9Z is too awkward, I can't see how a Kroma/U2 series unit can do it.
 
I would have thought they would have hot link protection enabled if they didnt want people to link to their images.

On topic...
I've never held a gun so I cant say for sure but I've never really thought of these "grips" to be an effective way of holding a light and a gun. Just my 2 cents...
 
I've never held a gun so I cant say for sure but I've never really thought of these "grips" to be an effective way of holding a light and a gun. Just my 2 cents...

Flashlight holds work *very* well.

As a comparison, this thread shows a Thorpe technique using a light that doesn't have the ring, but it's a stock SF 6P and a Novatac 120P that's in use.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2346732&postcount=18

Flashlight techniques take a lot of motor skill sets to use and to practice effectively.

The challenge for all flashlight holds are:

1) Secure the weapon properly
2) Secure the flashlight properly
3) Provide adequate cross tension to retain both the weapon and the flashlight during recoil
4) Provide proper light/weapon alignment.

Combine that with doing a room clearing exercise, and your brain does get a bit tasked. Hence why practicing it over and over and over again tends to help force it into muscle memory.

-Steve
 
I'm going to add more commentary involving this. It is, of course, my opinion, and I haven't had training on it yet, so this is somewhat of a personal conjecture.

The more I look at it (and playing with my truck based 6P that I've thrown some paracord on to simulate the ring), I don't know how well this may work.

Starting off - how the hell do you do a weapon clearing/malfunction drill with this ring? Either way you flip it, the light will interfere with pulling the slide back with your support hand.

I guess I'm going to need to do some sort of class thing with it.

-Steve
 
Starting off - how the hell do you do a weapon clearing/malfunction drill with this ring? Either way you flip it, the light will interfere with pulling the slide back with your support hand.
-Steve

They show it used on the index finger. It may work better on a lower finger, freeing up your thumb and index finger for weapon clearing. You bring up a good point though, and that's why they get big bucks for the dedicated weapon lights.
 
I've mentioned it before, but connecting things to your fingers or wrist for combat is generally unwise.

Anything that interferes with the ability to manipulate the gun and holster in an emergency is a liability. This could include thick gloves and anything hung from fingers or wrist. You may have to draw and shoot from the weak hand--not a problem if the flashlight is dropped. If the flashlight cannot be dropped? Potential life-threatening problem.
 
You could cut open the finger ring so you got some leverage but could still drop the flashlight.
 
I've mentioned it before, but connecting things to your fingers or wrist for combat is generally unwise.

Anything that interferes with the ability to manipulate the gun and holster in an emergency is a liability. This could include thick gloves and anything hung from fingers or wrist. You may have to draw and shoot from the weak hand--not a problem if the flashlight is dropped. If the flashlight cannot be dropped? Potential life-threatening problem.

That's the point I was trying to get across.

I'm sure reloading would be awkward too. A wrist lanyard is probably more effective. That way you can let go of the light and still have it attached to you.
 
If it was made of hard rubber, a bit like a snorkel mothpiece then it would still give you a good hold factor but you could flick it off in a hurry...
 
Top