Sold/Expired Surefire E-Series MicroTower (E-MT) LED drop in

[KenAnderson]

One E-MT F2 please.

PM or email me with payment details.

Thanks...

Ken

 

[jsr]

Hmm, I just noticed on the list, people can request an FM module. I'd like to reserve an FM also. I really want a low output capability.

 

[koala]

Hi all,

Pre-Order list updated, no payment is required until your turn, when I have finish building yours. I will send a PM for payment instructions when ready. koala and yclo are in proper financial status so we don't need no "pre-funding". We call it pre-order list because I can only build when there is demand.

madmax718 :wave: - I am glad you voiced out your concern regarding tactical mode with the E-MT FM. The mode changing can be locked out to retain tactical function. If you don't wish to have a multi-mode drop-in, I can preset your drop-in so it is locked to 1 level. In case you get bored, you can always unlock it and change brightness. I still experimenting with different lockout sequence but don't worry it won't be like "100 clicks" to do it.

Both E-MT F1 and F2 burns warm. I think 1000mA is still alright but it will be quite uncomfortable during summer. It's very hot here lately I haven't been using my E-MT much. It's not scorcing hot but it makes my palm sweat. There is no "FM2", there's only F1, F2 and FM. FM is microprocessor controlled multi level drop in.

Sorry I cannot give an approximate answer regarding lumens and output. I am not fit because I don't have a proper measuring equipment. I shall leave it to someonelse.

jsr :wave: - I manage to get some SN100C lead free solder paste, they do help alot, thanks for your guidance. nice!

:drunk:

 

[Beastmaster]

Koala,

Please add me to the list for an F1 and an F2 tower. I have an E1e waiting and an E2e coming in via BST - so I'm looking forward to modding them!

Thanks,
Steve

 

[frisco]

Will the f1 I got from you work in a E1e with a rCR123 ????? Not to hard on the battery???

frisco

 

[kongfuchicken]

I know it's a bit late to be a pain in the neck but if possible and convenient, I'd like my F2 to have a lower driving current.
Somewhere along the lines of 400-500mA with 6V would be great for a long running light.
Thanks!

 

[jsr]

koala - no prob. The paste looks interesting. I've never used a paste with that formulation. Thanks for adding me to the pre-order list. Just to to be clear, for the FM module, I want a really bright high-mode, about (900mA max?, tho a bit hot, so maybe 750-800mA), but a dim low-mode, about 5-10 lumens. Things in between don't interest me. Looking forward to the FM!

 

[Silversurfer]

Hope this is not a problem.

I'd like to change my order to F1(x2).

Thanks.

 

[freewheelin']

Please put me down for an F1, if there's any left.

Thanx, Mike

 

[coucoujojo]

If i want a low and hight output with the F1, can i use a 2 stages tailcap?

 

[cnjl3]

This was posted on 12/12/2007:

Hello guys,
You can buy two stage switch from the Sandwichshop and get a Low and High E-MT. There, I said it, you don't need the E-MT FM to get low and high function. I haven't experimented with the two stage switch yet but it should work.

Has anyone tried this?

 

[koala]

Yo wassup ma hommies !! it's HOT in here, 41C/105.8F today

Pre-Order list updated, no payment is required until your turn, when I have finish building yours. I will send a PM for payment instructions when ready. We call it pre-order list because I can only build when there is demand.

Beastmaster - no need to mod, just replace the stock bulb with the E-MT :kiss:

frisco - no problem at all, your battery will probably be able to sustain a little bit more than 1.5C, the highest current draw(I have recorded) for F1 is about 980mA.

kongfuchicken - no worries, I will PM you custom details when I am about to build yours.

jsr - Initial plan is 1000mA max. That is because the AVR Tiny used in the E-MT FM has a 10bit ADC(1024 division) I/O and a 1.1v internal voltage reference. So I MAY be able to sense 1mA-1000mA with tolerable precision. I am NOT sure if the route I have planned will work, I need to put the thing into testing before I can confirm. Plan is fully regulated circuitry. PLEASE DON'T MOCK AT ME IF I FAIL, I am super duper noob. Most, if not all, DIY circuit boards(and a lot flashlight) you see on DX is non-regulated.

You can check out one of my early adventures with microprocessors here. As you can see the whole thing flop terribly because the silly placement(fundamental design) of the switch requiring a positive connection from the battery. Here's a better/more sensible Atmel microprocessor mod of the Fenix L1P with PWM.

Sorry, as mention in post #403 I don't have a proper Lumens measuring equipment so I can't speak in Lumens. :sigh: However, I do have a calibrated Fluke 8840 and HP 3468A bench multimeters so I can definitely speak in accurate current/mA

Silversurfer, freewheelin' - updated.

coucoujojo - Why not? at the expense of a small amount of power wasted in the current limiting resistors.

cnjl3 - nice diggin. I will let you guys know what resistor value works well. Gimme a few days. Need to dig out the switch and the resistors.

 

[Beastmaster]

The two stage switch from the Sandwich Shoppe works on every other E1/E2 based unit that I own along with Lego'ed units that I've built with the SS switch. It will work fine with the E-MT too.

-Steve

This was posted on 12/12/2007:


Has anyone tried this?

 

[luminata]

Koala, I totally missed the boat on this . I was one of the first to post interest in this and after so much time I completely lost track. Is there any chance I can get back on the list in my original spot or would I be put to the bottom for my screwup? I see things could go until early March once you go on an extended trip? Am I screweed? I was originally shooting for the F1 not the F2. Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

[piney12]

Hey Guys,

Please put me down for an F1.

Regards,

Joe

 

[coucoujojo]

Just for info how many E-MT you made per day?

 

[jsr]

koala - good luck with your idea. A 10-bit ADC gives plenty of resolution, sounds more than needed in this type of application. If what you do is considered noob stuff, I'm a retard!...tho, that may be true regardless of situation.

 

[koala]

Hello cpf!

Regarding the two stage switch from Sandwich Shoppe, I just tried mine, it is 5 ohms, it works quite well on F1 with a CR123 and RCR123. With the 5 ohms, there is a significant high and low. If it's anything higher than 5.3 ohms, it will not work. There is too much resistance in the circuit for the boost. So if your 5 ohms two stage switch is abnormally high resistance, it may only work for high level.

The 5 ohms does little on F2. There is very faint difference in high and low. 30 ohms or 60 ohms do better. I suggest 30 ohms for F2.

luminata :wave: - no worries I'll put you back up on the list.

piney12 :wave: - done.

coucoujojo :wave: - When I am free I'll make more, if not I make none. A batch was sent to Japan few days ago.

jsr :wave: - It's actually 10bit ADC + 20x gain amplification. So very low ohm current sense resistor can be used, but I am not sure if it will work as planned. I will have results in a week time or so, hopefully.

Vincent.

 

[luminata]

Thank you!!:twothumbs

 

[Unforgiven]

Continued