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Sold/Expired Surefire E-Series MicroTower (E-MT) LED drop in

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ampdude

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I have a few questions,


Will these have markings on the tower so you can distinguish one from the other without too much trouble if you order both? And so that you don't get them mixed up someday?

Also, will these fit in the SC3 spares carriers? It looks like they should, and my Lumens Factory bulbs do.

And, why is it necessary to use 4.0V or more to get the full potential out of the EMT F2 when the LED forward voltage is going to be much less. With the typical older Surefire LED head like the KL1 or KL4 you can get the full potential out of it with just a single 3.7V lithium ion cell, like the 17670 or RCR123A, while still using two primary lithium OR lithium ion cells if necessary.

Thanks
 

koala

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Hi ampdude,

By looking at the tower from the bottom PCB you shall be able to tell which is which through the inscriptions. I don't know who would be silly enough to make these towers and not mark them right. The pads are actually Gold Immersion RoHS but they look silver in the picture.
8gjj5nk.jpg


I am sorry I don't have SC3 carriers nor LF bulbs so I can't tell for sure. The E-MT compared to MN01/2/3 looks like this...(from the first post)
53tqi36.jpg


The E-MT F2 is a buck only circuit whereas KL1, KL4 is buck-boost topology(maybe SEPIC). My understanding is that buck-boost converters are less efficient that a single topology circuit. The Surefire KX series are now single topology and no longer buck-boost configuration. If I have made a buck-boost E-MT then there will be only 1 model for sale.

I should not say this but... I am a efficiency freak(not that E-MT are super efficient), I went though lots of parts, the inductors are low mOhm(less resistance) also capable of ~4x the current of the Rebel, and I use low tolerance ceramic caps for best temperature rating and lowest ESR. The PCB tracks are design wide and thick to carry lots of current and reduce resistance. Although the later may not be that crucial. I use only premium parts which is kinda costly.

The upcoming E-MT FM is microcontroller based, it will be buck-boost configuration, it will come later next year.

As mention in my previous post(#185) the E-MT will light up even at 2.4V but it is dim. 4.0V is the minimum voltage where the buck circuit kicks in.

Hope this helps.
 
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KevinL

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I would love to try one!! I'll take an E-MT F1.

2 hours in regulation with 1 hour fade is enough for me. That's what my current KL1 does. I want a bit more light than the KL1, RB100 would be great. And it would fit in all my 'exotic' Surefire E1e's which do not have a matching KL1/KX1 color. I want to EDC a E1e-HABK.. maybe this will let me do it :D

Wow.. 80-100 output lumens from such a small light. Never imagined it would even be possible. RB100's are 100 (LED) lumens at 350mA but we will be driving a bit harder than that, it could easily make 80-100. WITH 2+ hour battery life. Phenomenal!

And thanks for sticking to the SIMPLE UI: I would rather have NO variable power than have to click through all the unwanted ones to find the level I want. As for throw, Executive-series lights are more floods. One can always substitute the stock or LumensFactory lamps in when throw is needed. Besides, I get out my D3+SRTH+MN16 when I need THROW :D

Your beamshots remind me of the KL4. This could be a KL4'ish beam.. very nice.

Didn't know you are a Canon 30D user as well :thumbsup:

Cheers to Koala and yclo for raising the bar yet again!! Instead of looking at the RB100 as 'just another LED' or 'how can I shoehorn this into an existing design' they have instead looked at it from the "What does this new emitter make possible, that has never been done before or could not have been done before?" perspective. :bow: :bow: That's the spirit of REAL innovation!
 
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koala

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Hi Kevin,

You have raised a few important questions, I hope the others can read this.

2 hours in regulation with 1 hour fade is enough for me. That's what my current KL1 does.

I didn't try to match the runtime of F1 and KL1, what I did was to tune the circuit so there is a balance between the output, runtime and heat. Please don't think that the E-MT is a alternative to the KL1. They are totally different animal. KL1 has a custom designed TIR optics, where as E-MT has a reflector which is not designed for the Rebel. It is also the biggest pitfall of E-MT.

You will not be happy if you think the E-MT will work like KL1. Sorry that it doesn't.

Wow.. 80-100 output lumens from such a small light. Never imagined it would even be possible. RB100's are 100 (LED) lumens at 350mA but we will be driving a bit harder than that, it could easily make 80-100. WITH 2+ hour battery life. Phenomenal!

Actually there are a lot of Chinese lights which are cheaper, they are "advertised" to have very high output in the +100 Lumens range. The reason I didn't release any Lumens specs that's because I don't have proper equipment to measure the output.

E-MT F1 has a runtime of 2+ hours with a fresh Panasonic CR123. Expect even higher output with a RCR123.

And thanks for sticking to the SIMPLE UI: I would rather have NO variable power than have to click through all the unwanted ones to find the level I want. As for throw, Executive-series lights are more floods. One can always substitute the stock or LumensFactory lamps in when throw is needed. Besides, I get out my D3+SRTH+MN16 when I need THROW :D

That is exactly why we have a drop in that requires No Modifications at all but as mention above, the pitfall is the big disadvantage here. The E-MT FM will have a really simple UI, maybe just Low and High.

Your beamshots remind me of the KL4. This could be a KL4'ish beam.. very nice.

I just got back from yclo's cave/workshop/camp. We met up to QC bare towers. I also made him hunt for his KL4 buried among all his stash. The beam is totally different.

I have tried to describe the E-MT output many times but failed terribly. I try again. Think of the E-MT as a bare emitter plus smallish reflector. So you got lots of spill and small hotspot. It works really well for short range, and during candlemode, nothing comes close to the wide-angle reflector of E Series. I can hardly find another light that can flood a room this good. So it's a good close range light, very useful for working under the table, in the car cabin, in the closet, your bedroom, etc.

Didn't know you are a Canon 30D user as well :thumbsup:

yclo is a Nikon D80 user, he takes nice pics.

It's still too early to tell whether this will suit many people. Only a few friendly members from the last Melbourne group meet tried it. I just hope that my posts could relay information to people who are interested without misunderstanding.
 
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dizzy

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WOW , am I to late to get in on this?

If not, I would be in for an E-MT F2 driven as hard as you are willing to go.

Great job on this, as if you didn't already know.:)
 

koala

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WOW , am I to late to get in on this?

If not, I would be in for an E-MT F2 driven as hard as you are willing to go.

Great job on this, as if you didn't already know.:)


Hi dizzy,

unfortunately, yes you are a bit far down the queue, so you may get the E-MT next year. Good news is next year is not too far away!

Vincent.
 

ampdude

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The upcoming E-MT FM is microcontroller based, it will be buck-boost configuration, it will come later next year.


Thanks koala, that one sounds more up my alley. I'm not as concerned about the efficiency, as about versatility.
 

KevinL

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Hi Kevin,

You have raised a few important questions, I hope the others can read this.



I didn't try to match the runtime of F1 and KL1, what I did was to tune the circuit so there is a balance between the output, runtime and heat. Please don't think that the E-MT is a alternative to the KL1. They are totally different animal. KL1 has a custom designed TIR optics, where as E-MT has a reflector which is not designed for the Rebel. It is also the biggest pitfall of E-MT.

You will not be happy if you think the E-MT will work like KL1. Sorry that it doesn't.



Actually there are a lot of Chinese lights which are cheaper, they are "advertised" to have very high output in the +100 Lumens range. The reason I didn't release any Lumens specs that's because I don't have proper equipment to measure the output.

E-MT F1 has a runtime of 2+ hours with a fresh Panasonic CR123. Expect even higher output with a RCR123.



That is exactly why we have a drop in that requires No Modifications at all but as mention above, the pitfall is the big disadvantage here. The E-MT FM will have a really simple UI, maybe just Low and High.



I just got back from yclo's cave/workshop/camp. We met up to QC bare towers. I also made him hunt for his KL4 buried among all his stash. The beam is totally different.

I have tried to describe the E-MT output many times but failed terribly. I try again. Think of the E-MT as a bare emitter plus smallish reflector. So you got lots of spill and small hotspot. It works really well for short range, and during candlemode, nothing comes close to the wide-angle reflector of E Series. I can hardly find another light that can flood a room this good. So it's a good close range light, very useful for working under the table, in the car cabin, in the closet, your bedroom, etc.



yclo is a Nikon D80 user, he takes nice pics.

It's still too early to tell whether this will suit many people. Only a few friendly members from the last Melbourne group meet tried it. I just hope that my posts could relay information to people who are interested without misunderstanding.

OK, OK, I hear you ;) I understand you don't want to disappoint anybody. I'm sure you won't and that most people buying into it will know that this is a mod with limitations as imposed by the mod.

This drop-in is NOT a substitute for any other known light, it has unique characteristics of its own. Probably going to be a very floody light with a tiny hotspot. That's quite OK with me. I think what you are trying to say is that the flood will be EVEN BIGGER than anything we've seen so far, almost like a bare emitter, and only a tiny portion of light will be caught by the reflector. THat's OK with me too!! :D

I will use it in place of a KL1 if I like it.. that's my individual preference. I'm not expecting it to work like a KL1. But from the facts you state here (2+ hour runtime, flood beam) it seems to fit my needs. My old 3rd-gen KL1 (Lux1 high dome, NX05) is scheduled for retirement and I am looking for a suitable candidate. That decision is entirely up to me when I find something that looks good, don't worry about it. I know the replacement will not be another KL1 - if I wanted exactly a KL1, I would just plonk a SSC P4 emitter into my existing KL1 and be done with it :)

Thank you for being honest about the lumens. I should also state that my figures are ESTIMATED lumens based on my guesstimation and the drive current, I just wanted a rough guide to estimate brightness before I received my E-MT.

(PS: the D80 is a nice camera too.. very capable. If I shot Nikon I'd probably own the D80 or D200/D300.)
 
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frisco

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Nice!

I love nice smooth Floody beams! Most practical general purpose light for most tasks. That, along with good run time is a winning combination!

Pointy throw beams tend to be for newbies and those few that actually need it. In most cases a pointy incan beam reaches farther.

Can't wait to have my E2D with this LED mod!

Is this going to be an on going product? If I like, will I be able to by more?

Thanks, frisco
 

X_Marine

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Jan 15, 2007
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Houston, Tx
Wonderful news on the progress.

I just have to commend you on all your explanations to members who may have expectations that just can't be met.
You have done an admiral job of explaining what to expect and also have been very careful as to not taking credit inappropriately.

I have the feeling you are just going to have to suck it up after these are delivered because it seems you have done an extraordinary job of research and development. These are really looking like a great alternative for many.

Great job & communication. :twothumbs

Anxiously awaiting PM.
X..
 
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