Surefire G2 Explosion

3000k

Newly Enlightened
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Jan 25, 2009
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Well I have a Surefire G2 with a P61 lamp and I didn't lock out the tailcap enough so it ended up turning on in my pocket. By the time I pulled it out ouf my pocket it was untouchable and ridiculously hot. The light was no longer working and I figured I would let it cool down before I remove the batteries but in that time one of the batteries vented and blew out the lens then made a hissing noise. The lamp itself did not blow out but is a bit discolored. I put it all back together with fresh batteries and it all works now but the bezel, lens, and lens retainer are all a bit warped.

I realize having it in my pocket would make it get hotter than usual but would would be the maximum normal runtime you could use this without warping?

Oh and no pics, everything is back in one piece anyways.
 
-Never mix new cells with used ones.
-Never deplete the cells completely, once the lamp starts to dim, even the slightest bit toss'em.
-Use the SF LOTC. Its patented by Paul Kim, it works, its part of why you pay a premium for a surefire.

You and your family jewels got lucky today.... really lucky. Thank goodness you were not hurt.

Run times will vary with cell type. I can't remember what the P61 current draw is but run times in minutes will be approximately:

(Current draw / cell capacity) x 60 minutes

Note however for safe use you should never deplete the cells 100%. So the equation is:

((Current draw / cell capacity) x 60 minutes) x .70 (approx)
 
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I know the runtime is 20 min but I don't see light lasting that long without overheating. The light was only in my pocket for 10-15 minutes and those were fresh cells.

What is a SF LOTC?
 
I'm sure glad you didn't get burnt! Not the best place to wind up roasted! I am a little bit confused. Many articles warn of not over discharging Lithium batteries. I have also read many posts of regulated lights and how good they are because they keep the light bright until all the energy in the battery is exhausted! Which is it? Use them up until the battery is empty or not? Lots of posts tell of using unregulated lights first for bright light then many hours after the light starts to dim. With modern unregulated LED lights, the LED will produce a lower level of light for many hours after the battery is almost depleted and the voltage lowers significantly. Someone please explain this contradiction.
 
Good thing you took it out in time... I personally never carry a light with litiums in my pocket... jewels are worth more than flashlights.
 
I was actually driving at the time. I already tossed the batteries. The battery closest to the lamp is the one that vented, it had dark scorch marks around the holes. The light now rocks back and forth when you put it bezel down. It is hard to see the warpage in the pics. These are the best picks I can do.

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Did the cells leave residue in your light? Specifically maybe a black powder? Do you believe there were flames?

Seems like we've had a lot of "disasters" lately... the AAx2 NiMH, the AAA alkaline, and this 123x2... Sure makes for an interesting hobby don't it?
 
I'm sure glad you didn't get burnt! Not the best place to wind up roasted! I am a little bit confused. Many articles warn of not over discharging Lithium batteries. I have also read many posts of regulated lights and how good they are because they keep the light bright until all the energy in the battery is exhausted! Which is it? Use them up until the battery is empty or not?

My understanding is that with rechargeable lithium, you do not want to ever go below 2.5 volts per cell. To be safe and for the cells to last a long time, consider the minimum to be 3 volts per cell.

However, I was under the impression that with lithium primaries, you could safely drain them all the way. There are even threads here talking about "battery vampires" where people move almost depleted cells into lights that will finish them off. I COULD BE WRONG ABOUT THE PRIMARIES! But that was my understanding.

It could be the op used cheap cells or they were at different states of charge (mismatched). That and the high current draw of the P61, along with the extra heat generated by being stuffed in a pocket, etc.

3000k, what brand cells?
 
If its a P61s, like all incans, it will get very hot. All my incan p60 dropins are uncomfortably warm to touch after 4/5 minutes continuous on. It wouldn't surprise me if the air temp in the battery tube was upwards of 80/90 degrees after that long of a confined run.

That, together with the high current draw = :poof:

Look at it this way, now you've got an excuse to buy a glass lens, more scratch resistant and more light output.
 
Careful, the chemicals that primary lithiums vent are toxic. Scrub your light and hands really well and make sure you ventilate your car.

What brand were these?
 
To clarify, the batteries were surefire primaries. There was some dark gooey residue in the light and the outside of the reflector tinted brown. It was starting to burn me in my pocket while I was driving on the highway so it took me some time to get it out of my pocket. When I took it out I saw there was no light coming from the bulb and since it was too hot to handle I dropped it onto the passenger seat. A minute later the bezel ring and lens blew out with a bang towards the passenger door. It then smelled so I rolled down the windows. I cannot really tell if there was flamage or if it was just the color of residue, either way I got the light cleaned up. Oh and the bezel or flashlight head was melted to the body so it took alot of force to unscrew and the bezel has a flat spot on it. The lens retaining ring doesn't screw in too nicely either but at least it isn't stripped.

I think the high temp might have caused the battery to vent.

I am thinking about buying a new one with a M60WLF.
 
It wouldn't surprise me if the air temp in the battery tube was upwards of 80/90 degrees after that long of a confined run.

Look at it this way, now you've got an excuse to buy a glass lens, more scratch resistant and more light output.

I have doubts about a glass lens, as it is I think the head is too warped.

My pockets are very thick, the light was basically melting.
 
Well since it happened with SF cells, send it back. Not only will they (most likely) take care of it for you, they might appreciate the opportunity to figure out what the true cause was.

Now go out to the trash and dig out those batteries! They'll want those too for sure!
 
Definitely call Surefire! They will take care of you! I've melted a couple of Lexan windows using HOLA's and they have replaced both - no question. Let them know you were using the P61 and a SF battery vented. I'm confident they will make it right.
 
Well since it happened with SF cells, send it back. Not only will they (most likely) take care of it for you, they might appreciate the opportunity to figure out what the true cause was.

Now go out to the trash and dig out those batteries! They'll want those too for sure!

Crap I never thought of that. :duh2: The batteries are long gone but I think I will give Surefire a call tomorrow.
 
Sounds like one lesson we all need to learn from the recent events is that you should always save any batteries and other residue from an exciting flashlight event.

The flashlight explosions are probably part of the run up to 2012 armageddon. 2004 tsunami, 2005 Katrina, 2010 Haiti earthquake, Saints winning the superbowl, Chile earthquake, flashlights exploding.

The fabric of reality is coming apart. We're all going to die. Well, at least we'll have good lighting to observe the events.
 
Thanks for sharing your story with us. This should really be in the battery safety section (PM sent to Silverfox to move it).

This is one of those understandable exceptions where you had little time/options because it happened while driving on the highway. For future reference, you should toss the light out the car window, hopefully towards the sides, then pull over, and walk back to find it.

When you take the time to read about the toxic fumes and possible issues, consider that you have used up one of your lifelines. The only resolution of this type of problem is a lock-out tailcap where it cannot come on while stored, and check your cell voltages to stay in a more conservative range of battery use.

It is the most unusual to have this happen with SF Primaries, but with a continuous on-drain, it can happen to the best quality cells.

Personally, I would not continue to use a light that had this happen to it. If SF replaces the entire light, and you get a lock-out tailcap, then fine. You may also want to read up on the dangers of the Lithium fumes in the battery safety section.

Again, thanks for sharing this event. The entire community benefits from it.
 
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