Surefire L4

[Bullzeyebill]

I would opt for another KL4 (sold my other two) if I could be assured that it had a very low vf, and one of the better W bins. My KL5 has those features, I am sure. Runs just great on one RCR123, and two hours flat regulation (bounce with lightmeter) with one Pila 600P, with no heat issues.

Bill

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Thanks for the heads up, however tactical supply doesn't have the L4 available (there isn't a buy it now or add to cart button), and Optics HQ is 5% off the $165 list, which only takes $8.25 off. I will keep these in mind however.

Lighthound.com has them for 149 USD. They also have KL4's and E2 bodies.

 

[rdh226]

Surefire U2
is a GREAT multi-level (6) LED, not as bright on high as the L4, but much more versatile.

your U2 must have flat batteries then
my U2 craps all over my L4
it is about equal when you turn the U2 down to about level 4


the L4 is a great light, it was my second surefire, i still have it and still use it regularly
although my EDC light is either my U2 or strion, simply because the strion is rechargeable and the U2 is so versatile, long running and dim or screaming bright - it does both and lives on Pila's so it is cheap to run too

OK, let me qualify that...not batteries (I swapped the pairs). The U2 high (stage 6)
definitely has a brighter center torus ("doughnut") than the L4 (to the crudely-
measured tune of 130fc to 100fc), but offcenter the L4 has a much broader swath
of light than the U2 (60fc [L4 to the U2's] 20fc), and it's a wider dispersion too.

My perception is that the L4 is much better at lighting up an area (room, hallway,
cave, etc.) than the U2 with it's much more concentrated throwy (center-weighted)
beam. The (my) perception is the L4 puts out more light overall, even though the
U2 is the no-contest brightest-single-spot winner.

This did make me look more closely at my earlier attempts to quantitatively mea-
sure the lights' TOTAL output using my Simpson 408 Illumination level meter
and its diffusion filter. Looking more closely at the diffusion filter I realized that
it very strongly favors center beam, which ironically caused the U2 to score very
low. My measurements ended up comparing L4 center-weighted beam to the U2's
donut hole! NOT what I intended to measure at all! Fascinating...

-RDH

 

[Alin10123]

What model can I get one off of and where from?

I think the stock L1 uses one. I'm not positive of the model # though. I have one on my ML1.

 

[Alin10123]

Funny I have a whole bunch of SF clicks and I have never had a single one fail.
In fact i have found them to be quite robust. As was posted earlier in the thread Surefire will replace a failed switch very easily.

I didn't mean to imply that they were bad or anything. I just read about them quite a bit on here that they fail. But everytime SF will replace the switch usually with no questions asked.

With that said though, i did have the clicky on my e2e get stuck on me a few times. It took a little bit to get unstuck. But i can't say it's failed (knock on wood)

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

Hi, would this mod work on an E2L? I think they have the same clicky.

Thanks,

Yes, it does. I used the same tailcap on my E1L with the same success. Definitely a cheap way to get a two-stage switch.

 

[Sixpointone]

I've owned my L4 for about 2 1/2 years now.

I use a McE2S 2 Stage Tailcap at 22ohm.

I also have been running it off of my Pila 168S Rechargeable Batteries.

It is a great workhorse light and I've had no problems with it whatsoever.

Hope that helps,
John

 

[BBL]

I think the stock L1 uses one. I'm not positive of the model # though. I have one on my ML1.

The L1 tailcap will not fit a L4 body. Would be too nice.

 

[Darknessnomore]

My L4 came in handy today! My basement flooded from the storm and I had to get behind alot of shelving units with the wet vac. I clipped the L4 to my baseball hat. What a great light!

 

[warpdrive]

Which two stage tail cap do I need for the L4

I just want to order the right thing

I see on sandwichshoppe
"Assembled McE2S LOTC two stage switch"
"Assembled McE2S FLAT LOTC two stage switch"

Which one is better. I guess I also need to order the rubber boot also for $4
Is there anything else I need? This will work with my current L4 tailcap housing? I don't need to order a housing?

edit:
Or do I order this? This is a complete kit? Just screw it on and I'm ready to go?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=864

 

[labrat]

Re: Which two stage tail cap do I need for the L4

I just want to order the right thing

I see on sandwichshoppe
"Assembled McE2S LOTC two stage switch"
"Assembled McE2S FLAT LOTC two stage switch"

Which one is better. I guess I also need to order the rubber boot also for $4
Is there anything else I need? This will work with my current L4 tailcap housing? I don't need to order a housing?

edit:
Or do I order this? This is a complete kit? Just screw it on and I'm ready to go?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=864

That kit seems to be a complete tailcap with switch, just wonders why it has the rubber boot-cap as an option?
But this kit:
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?&products_id=398
is the two-stage-switch only, you select the desired resistance (and order the boot-cap too) and install in your z57.
Needs to have the retaining-ring filed off some(thinner) to work smooth, but easy to assemble.

 

[Art Vandelay]

Would this work?

McTC Tailcap with McClicky Switch -Black **NEW** [McTC_MCS_B] $35.00

McTC Tailcap with McClicky Switch -Natural **NEW** [McTC_MCS_HAN] $35.00

 

[labrat]

Would this work?

McTC Tailcap with McClicky Switch -Black **NEW** [McTC_MCS_B] $35.00

McTC Tailcap with McClicky Switch -Natural **NEW** [McTC_MCS_HAN] $35.00

No, those are only on-off switch tailcaps,

 

[bombelman]

Hey, just wanted to share my newest EDC:
More info here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/162146

 

[milkyspit]

...and the Seoul version, running on a single RCR123 cell rather than a CR2 cell. Bombelman's Cree, CR2 version is a lot cuter! But I'd been thinking about doing this for a while and it was seeing his that finally got me to do it. Thanks for the kick in the butt, Bombelman!

Wasabe64 made the E2LS adapter proto!

 

[louie]

Milky, how about a new thread with details on this Seouled KL4?!

Personally, I think my KL4 now has too many disadvantages compared to something with a Seoul or Cree.

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

Milky, how about a new thread with details on this Seouled KL4?!

+1

 

[bouncer]

I love mine use it constantly for two months no switch problems here

 

[louie]

Re: Which two stage tail cap do I need for the L4

I just want to order the right thing

I see on sandwichshoppe
"Assembled McE2S LOTC two stage switch"
"Assembled McE2S FLAT LOTC two stage switch"

Which one is better. I guess I also need to order the rubber boot also for $4
Is there anything else I need? This will work with my current L4 tailcap housing? I don't need to order a housing?

edit:
Or do I order this? This is a complete kit? Just screw it on and I'm ready to go?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=864

The way I think it is, the assembled switches are the guts put together, which is about 30 seconds labor over buying the kit. You have to take it apart to install it anyway, but if you don't know how it all goes together, you'll be back asking for help. The FLAT switch has a modified actuation designed for the Aleph flat tail button, which has a much shorter depth and actuation travel than the regular. The McTC is available assembled with 2 stage switch guts. That's complete and you just screw it on the flashlight. Note what the McTC looks like to see if you like it. Otherwise you need some other tailcap and switch guts. Don't forget to get the rubber button (boot). It's an option because some folks already have a Z52 tailcap and just want to replace the guts.

Note: as mentioned elsewhere, the 2 stage guts supposedly fit in the current L4 tailcap (Z57) although most say not optimally.