Surefire M3 right for me?

[prop]

Hello all

Im currently on the fence regarding a SF M3 buy from the classifieds. Im an LEO and the light will be used as my primary duty light when on nightshifts. Im still a flashlight newbie, so bear with me if i ask some stupid questions.

The thing is that i already own a 6P with a Malkoff M61 drop-in which im VERY happy with. 2 days ago i also bought a Z2 host from the classifieds so i could see if the combat-grip was for me. As a backup i carry a E1B which im also very happy with.

Regarding the M3...ive always liked the looks of it but how much will i gain in terms of performance if i buy it? The 60/20 min battery time is REALLY putting me off and so are the sensitive incandescent bulbs. I have to pay for my own batteries, so runtime is a factor. I do realise that incan will never match LED in terms of runtime, but is the M10/11 so much better then my M61?

Is it possible to pop a bulb it just by dropping the M3 on the pavement or am i worrying to much?

I heard the throw on both the M10 and M11 is pretty similar, only difference is the intensity, is that correct? Any idea on where i can find some comparison beamshots?

How do the 225 lumens the M11 bulb put out, compare to my Malkoffs 260 lumen LED? I expect the color-rendition to be much better, but is that its only advantage?

If i DO decide to get the M3 im also going to have to invest in a quick-draw sheath cause it wont fit my V70, so thats an extra cost too, which is another minus. Plus i heard that the M3/V71 combo rides too high when mounted bezel-down.

Even with all these obvious disadvantages im still drawn to the M3. Have i been brainwashed by Surefires marketing or is it really that good?

Thanks for reading. Any input is appreciated.

 

[jamesmtl514]

It sounds like you are already sold on the M3.

You already have a good lineup of primary lights. The M3 will probably be your search/blunt impact light. Something that won't be used too often, but will be indispensable when needed.

I say go for it. If it doesn't work out you'll be able to resell it for the same price.

 

[Roger999]

If you have to pay for your own batteries you should invest in a charger and a few sets of AW 17500 LICO batteries, they only work with the mn10 though, it will only work safely with the mn11 if used in short bursts, the mn10 on 2 17500 lico batteries will give you about 50 minutes of runtime.

IMO the high CRI and colour of an incan is worth the short runtime compared to most LEDs, I find it easier to identify objects with incans when outdoors, when indoors it doesn't make much difference for me.

It's shock isolated bezel is meant to handle the recoil of a rifle when mounted, I believe there isn't much protection from shock to the sides, however most people have dropped their incans occasionally without popping bulbs.

If you're really worried about the popping bulbs you can go for the M3TL(might be a bit too fat for carry though).

 

[computernut]

I've recently acquired an M4 and love it. The M3 is next on my list to buy. The shock isolated bezel on the M-series might help keep the bulb popping if you dropped it but there are stories of people who still blew bulbs. I think the shock isolation is more for gun recoil than dropping. If you get a couple of 17500 cells and a lumens factory HO-M3 you won't care so much about the runtime as you can always recharge or keep an extra set of cells handy. The nice thing about the 3-cell lights is you can pop in 3-CR123's or 2-17500's and use the same bulb. For me personally an M3 would be too long to have on my belt. Have you looked at the G3/V85?

BTW: The filament has to be hot to break so you don't have to worry about dropping it while it's off. It would have to be quite a fall to break the bulb when it's off.

 

[Brigadier]

IMO, you can't go wrong with an M3 and MN10/LF HO-M3 and 4 or 6 AW17500's. The WF-139 charger even comes with a 12V car charger.

 

[ebow86]

I assume he's talking about the regular M3, not the turbo version? If you were buying this light new I would probably suggest either going for the turboheaded version or stepping right up to the M4 but since you are buying it used you can always add the KT4 turbohead later on in the future. Are you considering a turbohead later on?

 

[prop]

I assume he's talking about the regular M3, not the turbo version? If you were buying this light new I would probably suggest either going for the turboheaded version or stepping right up to the M4 but since you are buying it used you can always add the KT4 turbohead later on in the future. Are you considering a turbohead later on?

Yes, it is the regular M3 im talking about, and i havent considered getting a turbohead. I was hoping the stock M3 would be good to go out of the box AND offer a noticable performance increase over my Malkoff 6P.

 

[Brigadier]

For regular duty use, I would NOT get the M3T. The head is too big, especially for belt carry.

 

[ebow86]

For regular duty use, I would NOT get the M3T. The head is too big, especially for belt carry.

Yeah I thought of that, but the KT4 does add a nice leap in throw which can be very useful at times.

 

[Brigadier]

Yeah I thought of that, but the KT4 does add a nice leap in throw which can be very useful at times.

Agreed. Using my two non-TH M3's though, they throw far enough for typical duty use. If I needed a TH for SAR, I would go with the M4 or M6 for their longer run times.

 

[cm_mtb]

BTW: The filament has to be hot to break so you don't have to worry about dropping it while it's off. It would have to be quite a fall to break the bulb when it's off.

What if one were to drop the light while holding it on in momentary? It would turn off before hitting the ground, obviously, but would the bulb still be hot and possibly break?

 

[leukos]

I'm not sure there is that much performance gain over the M61 to warrant the larger size on your duty belt. The 6P and Z2 form factor fit on the belt much easier. If you just want the incan option, go with a P91 or Lumensfactory bulb and two AW IMR 16340's for a stunning incan beam in either your 6P or Z2. I just don't think the M3 will suit you in the long run.

 

[ampdude]

prop, I work the night shift for security most of the time and I use a Sunlight Slim 3AAA with the warm 100 lumen head. I keep it in the pen carrier of my uniform. 99% of the time it does the job fine and I charge the batteries every night if I can, I have access to a couple of chargers, my own and a co-workers. Usually I charge the batteries before work though in my Maha Powerex MH-C9000 charger at home.

I also carry a Surefire G2 with a hardened mineral glass lense in my right shirt pocket with two AW IMR16340's and a Lumens Factory EO-9 lamp assembly just in case I need serious light, which happens occasionally.. I like to keep weight off of my belt if at all possible. I find that these two lights fulfill my needs all of the time. There's always an old Streamlight 20x incan in the car charger and 2nd Gen nightvision in the glove box for backup.

I do a lot of building checks that are monotonous (usually) so the LED light serves me well for this purpose. But when I really need a light I break out the incans or nightvision.

 

[prop]

Thanks for all your replies. I have to be honest with myself, and i dont i REALLY need the M3 as my M61 handles its business pretty well.

Besides, i cant remember how many times ive wished my dutybelt was abit lighter, so it makes no sense getting a bigger, heavier light when im saving weight on everything else.

But i still think the M# is darn nice

Thanks again for your time and replies.

 

[ampdude]

Yea, I think the M3 is more suited to hardcore SWAT type use. It's great because it is a super tough light and can also be adapted to a weaponlight platform, but I don't think it's meant as a typical duty use light or personal use light. Honestly I don't really see the benefit of shock absorbtion, unless it is on a weaponlight. If you drop the light, you'll probably drop it on its side, which is not what the frontal shock absorbtion was designed for anyways.

 

[Search]

Another officer in our department is trading me his 2 year old M3 for my 6P w/ Nailbender R4 tomorrow.

The only reason he wants to get rid of it is because he is tired of buying batteries so take that into consideration.

That's the ONLY thing.

 

[ampdude]

Hehe, yea I guess if you don't use rechargeables, battery life is a big deal, especially with these batteries. They have become a lot cheaper over the years, but are still expensive. Especially at retail stores.

I'll bet he's the type that buys one or two sets a year at the drug store for $10.

 

[Search]

Hehe, yea I guess if you don't use rechargeables, battery life is a big deal, especially with these batteries. They have become a lot cheaper over the years, but are still expensive.

Yeah but at lest SureFire and some others aren't selling them 10 dollars a piece like some are lol

I'm only buying it to have personally because it's an M3 and in 10 years I want to say I've got one. If I had to use it daily and wasn't flashaeducated I would have gotten rid of it too.

 

[ampdude]

I still wish I had my old school M3, because it threw better than the D36 lights I have now. It was a beast thrower. The current M3's are not quite the same in my experience. I have about three D19 e-series heads (standard 19mm reflector) that out throw an M3 head I had awhile back, it's really, really pathetic.

 

[angelofwar]

I like my "very old school" M3...Yeah, it's not an EDC'er, or even that great as far as performance goes, but it is a nice light, and feels great in the hand. But, like others have mentioned, it's designed as a "Business" light...when you gotta start kicking down doors or when things heat-up...along with my M4 and M6.

That's exactly what I keep mine for...basically a "stand-by" light for when things go awry...great for a back-up in a bug-out bag or in the back of a patrol car.