Surefire M3 Workarounds & Options?

[cl0123]

Issue: lights goes off sometimes when shaken or pointing down

Is there any new workaround to use AW protected 17500's other than bending the outer spring on the lamp module?
I've had a couple of M3's for quite some time and have never tackled the contact issues when using AW 17500. Most of the time, I would just insert three CR123 cells if I needed reliable candlepower. Otherwise, whenever using two 17500's, it has always been a hit-or-miss, and especially when the light is pointing down. In other words, it's definitely not reliable for most out- or indoor uses.
Searching through the nice CPF archive, there was a nice 17500's not working in SF M3 discussion suggesting to bend and widen the outer-spring of the lamp module. I am not too handy with bending springs and also wonder if that suggestion would cause the batteries to come loose (not enough compression between the lamp and the tail). Hence, just bringing up an old issue and hopefully getting some new solutions. Thanks in advance.

Minor question: Is there a non-incan solution that fits in the factor housing? I am very fond of the Malkoff modules for the 2- or 3-cells bodies of the old P60 or P90's, but looking at the suggested Malkoff solution it seems like I cannot continue to use the original M3 crown. One of the main reasons I kept the M3 is its form-factor and aesthetics. The old surefire 6P or 9P with the right LED modules can easily out-perform an M3 incan, but my hand really enjoys holding the M3.

 

[thermal guy]

I use keeppower 17500 in mine. Works great.

 

[ebuchner]

Load a "Short" (5mm L X 16mm D) delrin spacer in between the two cells if they're a bit too short

Delrin Battery Spacers 16mm - OVEREADY

Spacers do a variety of things. Used with chargers, spacers allow you to charge smaller cells than would otherwise fit. Choose your spacer below:

www.oveready.com

 

[fivemega]

Highest run time to lowest.
1- For free and longest run time, have the barrel bored out to fit 18.77mm diameter cells and use 35mm extention tube.
2- It is also posstble to use pair of 16650 cells and use 35mm extention tube.
3- It is also posstble to use pair of 18500 cells in bored out barrel.
4- It is also posstble to use pair of 17500 cells
5- It is also posstble to use threer of 18350 cells in bored out barrel with proper voltage bulb or LED
6- It is also posstble to use threer of 16350 cells with proper voltage bulb or LED

 

[sween1911]

I've done the "spring-dance" in my M3 more than once trying to chase the perfect button pressure and connectivity. I have a bag of spacers for different li-ions and it takes some fine tuning. Don't have a definitive answer. I will say a tailcap with a McClickie in it gives pretty consistent connectivity but I've dropped, whacked, cranked down and flat out broken McClickie mechanisns so YMMV. For bombproof reliability, nothing matches the OEM Surefire LOTC. (that being said, my bedside M3 has a McClickie)

As to a non-incan option, I've done my fair share of tinkering...

Project HAMM3RHEAD

This is what I’m calling my home-brew Surefire M3 head. Drawing on the architecture of Customlites excellent Nailbender D36 of which I have two, I’m building a similar style module. I have a couple XHP50’s (6V version) from my Gladius mods, I’m going to put one of those in front of a Dr...

www.candlepowerforums.com

My favorite turn-key solution to stretch the M3's legs and keep up with current options is the Lumens Factory Mini Turbohead. I had the older XM-L2 version with the black finish and it was awesome. Malkoff is rock solid and I love their stuff, but their M3 head to hold their M61/M91 just doesn't do it for me if only for the aesthetics.

 

[ampdude]

Funny AW's are the only 17500's that work in my M3's. The Keepower's do not. They seem too long. They might work with a Z48 or Z58 tail switch though, I haven't tried that.

 

[DRoc]

I have had contact issues like you describe for years- but only with the LF M3 MN15 equivalent. Even then, I give a hit to the side of the body of the flashlight, and it usually subsides, then is good for the remainder of the time my batteries are installed until next recharge. Occasionally I will have to open the bezel end to re-align. Still using AW 17500's. Have three remaining sets.
I have noticed the M3 Bodies/Heads offer a more secure/tighter installation once batteries are inside the tube. Definitely noticeable over my 9P,C3,Z3 bodies. I think that is an advantage, but then again, YMMV-especially when you have to regularly adjust.

 

[ampdude]

Tried a Z58 and Z48 the other day, and it didn't work with those switches either in the M3.

I thought for sure it would at least work with the Z48. The Keepowers run fine in my 9P/C3/G3 lights. They are too long though, and out of spec like a lot of other batteries that aren't AW. I really wish he could get back in the battery game, he made the best stuff. And all these years later they still work as well. That should tell you something right there.

 

[strideredc]

''It is also posstble to use pair of 17500 cells'' As Fivemega said. you can buy the keepower 1200mah an these work like a factory option. i am running my (one of them) with a LF (from Mark) M3 LED inset and it all looks stock. amazing beam pattern, not as bright as some of the new flashlights this size by a long shot but its a M3! its one of my bedside grab and go light...

 

[mcm308]

I Miss my M3s! One of them had an LED drop in from might of been Milky and it performed flawless. But for the most part, when I grabbed my M3, I wasn't playing games. I needed it to function so it was all OEM. I still have a bunch of OEM bulbs. I should look for a light... Lol