SureFire U2A (SSC P4 version) disassembled

[Justin Case]

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[Justin Case]

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[wquiles]

Thanks for the update Justin - great thread, and thanks again for the photos :D

 

[tsl]

I recently re-mod'ed this U2A by installing a neutral tint XM-L T5 bin LED. As expected, the hot spot lux dropped, although I had hoped for less of a decrease. The lux went from 11,400 with the XP-G R4 to 8200 with the XM-L (basically back to the original value with the Seoul P4). The current draw on 2xAW16340s is about 0.4A, with a total power draw from the batteries on the order of about 3.15W. With the XP-G, the U2A used to draw about 3.3W, so power consumption has dropped by about 5%. The XM-L Vf is about 2.9V (was about 3.1V), giving a driver efficiency in the mid-80% range.

This is one of the few posts where I've read of a U2 modded with an XM-L. How does the beam compare to the stock SSC P4? Any beamshots?

 

[Justin Case]

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[tsl]

I'll get a beam shot similar to the one in post #8 later. The XM-L beam pattern is very similar to the stock P4 beam. The XM-L hot spot is larger, but both beams have that same smooth blending of the hot spot into the corona. The XM-L also puts out noticeably more light in ceiling bounce vs. the P4.

If your U2A already has the threadlocker defeated from a previous mod, then this XM-L mod is fairly easy to do if you have the XM-L on an 8mm diam board like the datiLED board. You need to shim up the board about 1.2mm to get the LED die to the same focus height as the P4. The 8mm diam board fits perfectly between the centering ribs of the U2A heat sink. Thermal glue the shimmed board into place, solder the wires, and screw on the top half of the head.

Thanks; will appreciate the beamshots. I was thinking to send it (it's unmodded) to Milky for a neutral XM-L upgrade.

 

[SCblur]

How many OTF lumens would you estimate you are getting with the neutral XM-L

 

[Justin Case]

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[Justin Case]

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[Kestrel]

:bumpit:

OK, I've been trying to get my U2 head apart, with no luck so far - this particular SF is one of the HARD ones. :(

I just bought a pair of small but good strap wrenches of approximately the correct size, but I want to get the plastic control ring off the head assembly because I don't want to destroy it while I'm 'cracking' the head.

I can see how the control ring is retained by the steel clip, how to I get around that to take the plastic ring off? :thinking: It looks like I just turn the bejeezus out of it like in this video - why doesn't the 'stop' for the plastic ring get destroyed? :confused:

 

[koala]

Here try this guide by yclo http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?192035-Kroma-take-that-liquid-weld!
Read post #6, Kroma disassembly is similar to U2. I have done many.

Some people on youtube rip it off by force, dont do that, you will destroy the groove that holds the retainer ring and your control ring will fall off easily.