Swapped Firefly Lux1 with a Lux3, incredible!

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thwang99

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 13, 2004
Messages
66
Just swapped the Lux1 in my firefly with a Lux3, and what an incredible difference it makes! It's noticibly brighter. Before the Firefly was dimmer than my Arc 4+ second in mode 1. Now it's brighter! Bigger hotspot too. Way useful for seeing at night! The Arc 4+ has a nicer beam, though, the Firefly's hotspot is rectangular, and it has two little lines out to the side. Another big advantage over the stock Lux1 on the Firefly is that my FireFly is now white white white! Before it was blue tinted.

I wonder if somehow I lucked out and got a brighter lux3, a better bin? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I didn't expect the upgrade to improve things this much! Just wanted to share. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

- Tony
 
Probably also seing the difference between a LD and a HD too, at least if it was the stock FF module that was swapped.


Peter
 
My MM+ R2H is brighter than MM+ TWOK in firefly and white at 16 ohms VS green 16 ohms TWOK(H vf & luck of the draw, both are bright white full power). Don't you need to drive over 1000 milliamps to make a difference between Lux 1 & 3?
 
What does "R2H" mean in the bin coding scheme? I think I know what "TWOK", etc. mean.

I didn't swap the driver board, just the emitter. I wish I could post side by side comparison shots. It's brighter, and whiter!

I was told and read that there wouldn't be much difference. Yes the Lux1 was LD, the Lux3 is HD. Everything is stock on this FireFly (except for the LED now, plus a 2-stage 33ohm switch). Very satisfied I am. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
- Tony
 
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thwang99 said:
What does "R2H" mean in the bin coding scheme? I think I know what "TWOK", etc. mean. (2-stage 33ohm switch)

[/ QUOTE ]

link to bin code info

33 ohms is pretty dim, 16 ohms is aprox. Arc AAA, I'm looking for a 8 ohm smt.
 
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