Tell Me Your Best Kept Secret in Pocketable lights?

special_dx

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Hi All

I have been searching for what feels like an eternity for a replacement for the M*g Solitaire I keep in my dressing gown pocket. I had bought an Ultrafire WF-602C, but a mate saw it on the hall table and made me an offer I couldn't refuse!

I really would appreciate it if anybody who has discovered any real gems lately could post them here for me to investigate. What I'm talking about is lights that are maybe a bit smaller and lighter than an EDC right down to the smallest AAA or CR2, but not excluding minimalistic 18650 or 2XCR123A lights.

Switching and modes are not as important, especially in lights that can be modded, what I am after is a good quality to price ratio and water resistance (the Soli has been through the wash twice and fallen in the bath at least 3 times!)

I may just end up putting a smooth bezel on my L2M, but the head is really too big for this type of use. I have an Olight T20-T that would fit the bill well if I could get a shorter 123 body. I am also considerring the ITP Eos range of lights, the AAA and the CR123 are currently neck and neck, the AA is trailing.

I am also keen at modding stuff (not just lights), so I would be happy to take suggestions on ways to build a suitable light.

Cheers
special_dx
 
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march.brown

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Nov 25, 2009
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South Wales, UK
Hi All

I have been searching for what feels like an eternity for a replacement for the M*g Solitaire I keep in my dressing gown pocket. I had bought an Ultrafire WF-602C, but a mate saw it on the hall table and made me an offer I couldn't refuse!

I really would appreciate it if anybody who has discovered any real gems lately could post them here for me to investigate. What I'm talking about is lights that are maybe a bit smaller and lighter than an EDC right down to the smallest AAA or CR2, but not excluding minimalistic 18650 or 2XCR123A lights.

Switching and modes are not as important, especially in lights that can be modded, what I am after is a good quality to price ratio and water resistance (the Soli has been through the wash twice and fallen in the bath at least 3 times!)

I may just end up putting a smooth bezel on my L2M, but the head is really too big for this type of use. I have an Olight T20-T that would fit the bill well if I could get a shorter 123 body. I am also considerring the ITP Eos range of lights, the AAA and the CR123 are currently neck and neck, the AA is trailing.

I am also keen at modding stuff (not just lights), so I would be happy to take suggestions on ways to build a suitable light.

Cheers
special_dx
.
Try the iTP A2 , it is fab ... For nocturnal bathroom visits , I would prefer the low , medium , high on the A2 (or A1) to the medium , low , high on the A3 ... The form factor is nicer on the A2 as I don't like the dumpy shape of the A1 ... If your friend snatched your Ultrafire , just don't show him your A2 !

However , if size (lack of) is important then the A3 is an obvious choice ... Just a shame that it comes on in medium rather than low ... A3 is 66.5mm long by 14mm and the A2 is 77.5mm long by 17.5mm ... I have another A2 on order from Shiningbeam , stainless this time ... The perfect EDC and if you ever need a new battery , AAs are everywhere.
.
 

special_dx

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Yeah, the EOS series lights are getting really tempting, the reason I prefer AAA over AA is that I have so much stuff that runs on AAA and I tend to buy AAAs in bulk. I also like dumpy 1XCR123 lights and the high power density of that cell type. I must admit though, The AA version is a pleasing form factor.
 

joe1512

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Jan 7, 2010
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I have the itp A1 EOS SS on my keychain. I am not sure about 'dumpy' or whatever. It is the size of the AA one, except a lot shorter. The main advantage is it uses a 3.0V battery vs a 1.5 one.

This means it can crank out up to 200 lumens, vs 80. With a RCR123 like I use, this can max out at 4.2 volts which puts out a heck of a lot of light for brief periods. I also prefer the 30 lumen medium mode vs the 18 of the A2/A3.

But the itp is a great light no matter which one you get. As a twisty, it won't come on in your pocket. It has a straightforward User interface and no useless modes like Strobe (which is crap for a keychain light). Its also really cheap and of high quality.
 

special_dx

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It has a straightforward User interface and no useless modes like Strobe (which is crap for a keychain light). .

I normally don't go for strobe, none of my 6P style lights have it, but I do keep a strobing tail cap to use when I want to frighten next door's cat off our garden! I like cats, but not what they bury in the flower patch.

I am almots decided that I will get an A1, I agree with march.brown about the order of the modes and that kind of rules out the AAA.

I am tempted with the stainless version, but concerned that it may be too heavy and result in pocket swing with associated damage to the family jewels!
 

special_dx

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Just to update the thread, I have been looking tioday and found the Sterops Navigator (SKC-12X) which appears to be a modeless CR123 based light, this is available for < $30.

I am now in two minds about getting this or the ITP A1 (and not sure if I want that in stainless or HAIII), anybody tried the Sterops light?
 

joe1512

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I dont think you want a modeless light. Remember, this is for an EDC/keychain light.

I am not a strobe-hater per se and my main flashlight has one. But for a keychain light, you aren't exactly gonna use it for 'tactical purposes', right? Therefore I'd consider it to be kind of a waste. Kind of like having an 'assault bezel' on a 2 inch light. :)

However, multiple brightness levels is really nice! The itp A1 goes low,medium, high unlike the A3. This means you can start out with a nice 3 lumen light that won't ruin your night vision, IF you care about that. Medium at 30 lumens is enough to see pretty well AND your light won't get very hot. The 200 lumen high is nice to have, but I don't use it a whole lot.

Finally, I would trust the itp A1 a LOT more than a deal extreme light. You will get it a lot faster too. Don't forget the discounts available from the Dealers Corner sticky page. (especially since there is little dx forum talk and no reviews of the light)

So far my Stainless A1 has held up fantastic. Not a scratch on it. It looks a lot nicer too for that man-bling effect. It doesnt have an anodized layer that can flake off when abused. However, it is twice as heavy and doesn't conduct heat quite as well as alum.


If you dont want it for keychain use and are gonna keep it in your pocket, Id consider a Romisen C123 throw-to-flood light. (Romisen RC-A4 Q5 3 Mode LED Flashlight) Having a pure flood with no hotspot is actually kind of nice! You can see around you really well, without a glaring small spot that is distracting.
Then, you can focus it to put most of its energy into a narrow beam for looking at a distance. I'd love to have one and they are 20 bucks or so.
 
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special_dx

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I dont think you want a modeless light. Remember, this is for an EDC/keychain light.

I am not a strobe-hater per se and my main flashlight has one. But for a keychain light, you aren't exactly gonna use it for 'tactical purposes', right? Therefore I'd consider it to be kind of a waste. Kind of like having an 'assault bezel' on a 2 inch light. :)

However, multiple brightness levels is really nice! The itp A1 goes low,medium, high unlike the A3. This means you can start out with a nice 3 lumen light that won't ruin your night vision, IF you care about that. Medium at 30 lumens is enough to see pretty well AND your light won't get very hot. The 200 lumen high is nice to have, but I don't use it a whole lot.

Finally, I would trust the itp A1 a LOT more than a deal extreme light. You will get it a lot faster too. Don't forget the discounts available from the Dealers Corner sticky page. (especially since there is little dx forum talk and no reviews of the light)

So far my Stainless A1 has held up fantastic. Not a scratch on it. It looks a lot nicer too for that man-bling effect. It doesnt have an anodized layer that can flake off when abused. However, it is twice as heavy and doesn't conduct heat quite as well as alum.


If you dont want it for keychain use and are gonna keep it in your pocket, Id consider a Romisen C123 throw-to-flood light. (Romisen RC-A4 Q5 3 Mode LED Flashlight) Having a pure flood with no hotspot is actually kind of nice! You can see around you really well, without a glaring small spot that is distracting.
Then, you can focus it to put most of its energy into a narrow beam for looking at a distance. I'd love to have one and they are 20 bucks or so.

That Romisen is not a bad proposition, I can get one on Best Offer Buy for less than GBP £10 (USD $7.50) and I like it's styling. Does anyone have an opinion on Romisen quality and finish, Do they measure up to Solarforce for example? I have an L2M and L2P with which I am rather impressed, I hold the L2P as a kind of budget benchmark by which all my lights are measured for host quality.

The job of the light I am looking for is to help me lock up at night and check around the house/garage before I retire to bed, sometimes I go to bed while my girlfirend is already asleep, so lower modes are probably something I need. It will live in a dressing gown pocket.

The lack of modes on the Sterops is putting me off a bit. I was under the impression that Sterops is a premium brand , but I cannot find much to back this up, I certainly respect ITP. That said I would happily swap the driver in the Sterops if it is a nice light and can be dismantled.

I am still searching in vain for a 1 cell tube for my Olight T20, not sure if it will run on one primary, but it should manage a protected 16340, but even with one cell, the T20 might be a bit too long for this particular job. I don't even know for sure if such a tube exists and I would need a new EDC to replace it.
 

ky70

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Feb 1, 2010
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If you dont want it for keychain use and are gonna keep it in your pocket, Id consider a Romisen C123 throw-to-flood light. (Romisen RC-A4 Q5 3 Mode LED Flashlight) Having a pure flood with no hotspot is actually kind of nice! You can see around you really well, without a glaring small spot that is distracting.Then, you can focus it to put most of its energy into a narrow beam for looking at a distance. I'd love to have one and they are 20 bucks or so.
Joe, I think you're referring to the Romsien RC-C6, which is the flood-to-throw light that runs on cr123 batteries. The RC-A4 does indeed have a hot spot and has a decent amount of throw but is not a flood-to-throw light. I got the 1 mode version last week (RC-A4) and I really like the brightness of this light on a RCR123.
 

joe1512

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Joe, I think you're referring to the Romsien RC-C6, which is the flood-to-throw light that runs on cr123 batteries. The RC-A4 does indeed have a hot spot and has a decent amount of throw but is not a flood-to-throw light. I got the 1 mode version last week (RC-A4) and I really like the brightness of this light on a RCR123.

You are absolutely right! I totally misclicked and got the wrong name, so I apologize.
 

special_dx

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Well just to be awkward, I ended up ordering a Fenix LD01 for $30 (~GBP £23), hope I made a good choice! I just wanted to see what Fenix kit is like and figured this one at a knock down price was a good way to find out.
 

SixM

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Great light, I don't think you'll be disappointed. :thumbsup:
 

Melchior

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'Custom' - A 1st generation SMJ-Solitare retrofit module in a CHEAP Dorcy forward-clicky.
(With "Adjustable" focus - hah!)

Had it for YEARS, (EDC - literally always in a pocket).

Never failed, not once. (Even my Rexlight has gotten a case of aluminum rot...)

The only things that seem comparable cost 3X as much.

I'd replace it - but nothing seems to quite fit...(and it still works perfectly)
 

Tuikku

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If you dont want it for keychain use and are gonna keep it in your pocket, Id consider a Romisen C123 throw-to-flood light. Having a pure flood with no hotspot is actually kind of nice!

+1

I think RC-C6 has a nice flood. In my Romisen its very balanced and even, no hot or cold spots :) I use the flood like 90% of the time. Throw is for occasional "pointing-out" something.

RC-C3 II feels also sturdy. Very simple. Ugly enough to be sacrificed in dirty jobs, no need to be careful :D
 

special_dx

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Just in case anyone was wonderring, I got a black Fenix LD01 via a Fenix dealer in the States for just over $25 delivered. Initially I thought it was a dud as no light was occuring when I tightened the head, but a quick clean with some alchol and a cotton bud has got it working very well indeed. I looked at the Romisen for a while and realised it ws too big for what I wanted, but I may pick one up to evaluate as an EDC. The Dorcy idea is out for me as these were never available in the UK.

Cheers
Matt
 

gcbryan

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Oct 19, 2009
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I have two small favorites.

The Ultrafire 602c which you mentioned...it comes in several different battery configurations however. I have the (1)AAA model. It's a twisty, 1 mode, no frills, bright and small.

My most favorite is the Akoray K-109 (1) CR123 and it's the programmable 3 mode version (available at KD rather than DX). You can eliminate strobe mode and you can program the brightness levels and actually define those levels with a ramping feature in the programming mode.

High is 220 lumens and medium and low is whatever you want it to be. You can choose for it to start in low mode and go to medium and high or any other order. It's $20.
 

kramer5150

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I dont really have any secrets. The ITP-A3 and RC-N3 have been thoroughly exposed for the great values that they are.

Heres one for you all...
Solarforce L2M, DX:24353. The module flashes and flickers when cell voltage drops to around 3.2V, dims a little and turns off. So its perfect for unprotected cells. I just run this module till' it dies in various single cell hosts. If you de-solder the +IVE spring from the module it will fit a 17500 cell, for 2x the run time of a 16340.

Its not the brightest drop in I own, and its not the dimmest. Its around 160L OTF, on par with my M60 when I drive it with an 18650. It draws about 1.15A off an 18650, .9A off a 16340.
 

special_dx

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I must say I do like the L2M, I have one with a cheap MC-E drop-in that I run on an unprotected 18350 - it's currently wearing a beat up 6P head and twisty. The driver could do with improvement though as I have a nice XP-E module that blows it into the weeds even taking into account the MC-E's extra flood.

In fact, I am finding that the XP-E and XR-E R2 modules can't be beaten on value and hardly lose anything in real-world use except against a properly driven P7 or SST.

Incidentally, the L2M on DX looks like the old version that is not able to handle 18mm cells, but I like the tail cap design and the fact that it comes with the low profile bezel. The Surefire parts on mine have made it substantially shorter than a stock L2M with a strike bezel.
 
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