Tested: several lights in the woods

[325addict]

After some discussions, I decided to put a bunch of flashlights in all pockets and take a backpack for the other ones, and off to the woods. These lights I had with me:

LED:

1. Fenix P1D with RCR123,
2. SureFire L1 LumaMax.

INCAN:

Mini Maglite AA
Maglite 3D with halogen bulb 4V / 0.85A
MagCharger
Surefire C3 Centurion
UltraFire WF-501B
Wolf-Eyes M90 Rattlesnake


Some impressions:

Fenix P1D: this was the surprise of the test! Lots of throw and a decent spill. Just crazy for that size!

Surefire L1 Lumamax: more a tight beam with less spill than the P1D.

Mini Maglite AA: no more than a month ago, I believed this light was bright. Now I know the opposite is true. No more throw than a few meters.....

Maglite 3D: a little better than the AA. Still not spectacular. But: all those rings in the spot is still not a real problem. OK, it can be much better, but it's usable.

MagCharger: hey, this is it. Here the "focussability" comes with much less imperfections (dark spots) than the 3D. Don't ask me why, but it is the case. Either a tight spot, with little spill, or much spill with less throw.... or something in between. This is a very usable light. Heavy though!

SureFire C3 Centurion: here we enter SERIOUS lights
A good thrower, with much spill. This one was equipped with the P90 lamp assembly. NO imperfections in the light output.

UltraFire WF501B: Hmmm... this is quite confusing... it is really nearly as good as the C3!! Only disadvantage is the ridiculous runtime of 19 minutes. Uses two RCR123s and a lamp, drawing 1.3 Amps!

Wolf-Eyes M90 Rattlesnake: Equipped with the LED-tailcap. This is really nice. Turn it on, and the LEDs come on first. With night-adapted vision, you can see enough to find your way safely when ther's a path. Not comfortable though. Turn further and the D36 lamp assembly turns on....
LIGHT!!
This is the clear winner of this test. Exactly the right combination of throw, spill and spot. We walked for nearly an hour with this one on. Not too heavy like the MagCharger, not too flimsy like the P1D. Just right! Colors were right too, this can't be said for the P1D. A black path that's wet can only hardly be seen using the P1D. The Rattlesnake puts out the right color of light, this path was clearly lit.


For now, it's clear to me: I'll have to mod the Rattlesnake
An extender for 3X 18500s and a LF EO 13 is all I need
and.... lots of AW 18500s of course... this is gonna be an extremely hungry flashlight

The next step will be a Boxer 24W HID I'm afraid


Timmo.

 

[GreyShark]

I've found that when it comes to throw in the woods a tight beam is way more important than lumens. What appears to happen is that a wider beam, even if brighter, bounces off any brush, vines or trees in its path thereby greatly reducing the light available to illuminate object further out. My tightest throwing and brightest light can reach 200 yards in the open but only 50 yards maximum in my woods. I've actually found that brighter is worse for wide beams if you're trying to see deep into the woods because the brighter the things in the foreground appear the darker the things in the background look.

 

[kramer5150]

The 501B is a very good incan P60 light, Build quality stinks though. You can drop in a McClicky switch too with mild modification to the rubber cover and button.

 

[325addict]

@Kramer 5150:

That build quality stinks is fully true. You have to be very careful indeed to screw on the cap... otherwise you'll ruin the threads, as it can be screwed om in more ways wrong than right. But in my case, that's about it. The switch is OK, although it's a reverse clicky and you have to press it firmly. The finish and the quality of the light it has, are pretty flawless. No irregular anodizing, and the hotspot is almost perfectly round.
The current consumption is high, though. The 9V lamp assembly draws 1.3A!
The P90 in the C3 draws 1.15A and still outputs the same amount of light. Maybe a better reflector-design??
To make the 501B a more usable light, I consider installation of an energy-saving LF lamp. The ES-9 draws only 0.85A so even with these crappy Ultrafire RCR123s half an hour of runtime is possible.... that's just that little bit more to have a purpose for it....

Timmo.

 

[Swedpat]

Hi Timmo,

Interesting comparison. Yes, MiniMaglite isn't spectacular today. Neither 3D. But you mention halogen bulb to the 3D. Will this increase the brightness, will three D-cells be adequate for that bulb in comparison to crypton or xenon?
I just thought about a very good way to improve a 3D is to put a Malkoff dropin in it. MUCH brighter and longer runtime than the original incan bulb.
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=2

Regards, Patric

 

[325addict]

@ Patric:

I use the halogen bulbs for several reasons:

1. They last longer,
2. the light they output is whiter and brighter,
3. they will withstand rechargeables.

The use of NiCd or NiMH batteries makes for a much flatter discharge than when using alkalines. So the dreaded "fading yellow light" is avoided, the beam is bright nearly till the end of the battery-life.

These bulbs are made by Osram, if you want I can tell you more details. Several other manufacturers make them, and they can be ordered through Farnell or RS components.


Timmo.