Testing lights' waterproofness TK-10, 6P, Novatac 120P, SF Backup

[pactchncn]

Climber Kid and I decided that we wanted to go swimming with our lights. They were underwater for about 45 minutes, two took on water and two survived. All of them were subjected to ten foot depths and switched on and off. They were thrown across the pool and into the deep end. They looked sweet when they were sinking to the bottom.

Left to right: TK-10, 6P with an Cree R2 LED, SF Backup, and Novatac 120P

In the box, flashing Novatac 120P. From left to right: 6P with Cree R2 LED, SF Backup, Novatac 120P, TK-10.

This was my somewhat successful underwater photo. I made a makeshift waterproof container for my G9 using a clear waterproof box bought from walmart and some furniture foam. To take the picture I set my camera to self timer and quickly closed up the box.

And for the status of these lights,
The Novatac and the SF Backup survived with no leakage and no failure.
The Fenix TK-10, Took on a little water, enough to make it act up.
The Modded Surefire 6P was missing an o-ring and took on water, it started acting up by going from high to barely on.

Both lights have been dried out and work again!

Happy to say that both of my lights survived!

 

[276]

cool review, when u say that the 6P took on water was it that the light had a gap due to the module

 

[climberkid]

...the problems were the freakin tailcaps.....
i dont know exactly what caused it, but it was mostly condensation inside the light. could be due to the heat. :shrug:

 

[Crenshaw]

argh! i had this idea while back when i threw my Tiablo into my friends pool. We havnt since had time to do it properly...but we are going to eventually. He has the Olympus waterproof model...

Crenshaw

 

[climberkid]

:nana::hahaha:

 

[pactchncn]

Kinda thought about it on a whim, just happened to have my camera and pocket tripod around. And, of course, I always have lights on me.

 

[Marduke]

Try properly lubricating the o-rings and trying the test again.

 

[climberkid]

i will do that marduke, definitely

 

[276]

Closest i have to duking my lights is in the shower only cause i suck at swimming

 

[Crenshaw]

:nana::hahaha:

you wait...ill top you yet...:touche:



Crenshaw

 

[climberkid]

you know i always look forward to your tests and information crenshaw. you stalker. just kidding.

 

[Blue72]

Try properly lubricating the o-rings and trying the test again.

A proper gland design should not leak at 10 feet regardless if it is lubricated or not.

 

[climberkid]

is there something wrong with the way they designed the threads then? the tail cap design is another story. i dont think it works very well and i dont like momentary very much to start with.

 

[Marduke]

A proper gland design should not leak at 10 feet regardless if it is lubricated or not.

Take a dive light with bone dry seals and see how waterproof it really is.

Properly lubed o-rings is REQUIRED for any sort of submersion.

 

[Echo63]

He has the Olympus waterproof model...

Crenshaw

just make sure he cleans the battery and usb doors properly before he submerges it.
Kinda OT but:
my day job involves making leaky wrecked olympuses (olympii ?) seal and work again - they seal great if the sealing surfaces are spotless, they leak badly if they havent been cared for - and the doors should be changed every 12 months too

 

[Blue72]

Take a dive light with bone dry seals and see how waterproof it really is.

Properly lubed o-rings is REQUIRED for any sort of submersion.

Actually I use dive lights and I do not always lube my lights

Lubricating the o-rings increases the seal dramatically however we are only talking 10 feet of water which is only about 4.3 psi of water pressure. If the o-ring was lubricated it would probably seal but increase the water pressure and it is likely the seal will channel

A proper gland design should seal at 10 feet. even if it gets knocked around

If it was my light and it leaked I would change the size of the o-ring not just lubricate them to fix the leakage

 

[SilentK]

so if my o-rings are lubed on my 6p, i can swin mith it? sweet!

 

[Monocrom]

When I read that the 6P was using an aftermarket R2 drop-in, I knew it wasn't one of the two lights that survived. Even if the tailcap wasn't an issue, many aftermarket drop-ins that say they'll fit in a Surefire light; don't fit properly. Even with the outer spring removed from the drop-ins, the drop-ins tend to be taller than a P60 lamp. They'll fit inside a Surefire bezel, but when you screw on the head; it only scews on about halfway.

To me, that's not a proper fit. I've heard that a Malkoff M60 will fit properly. (Got one on the way).

 

[climberkid]

maybe i should think about the malkoff instead then. plus malkoff just rocks...:thumbsup: you are right about the fit though. it is tougher to screw on. but on the other hand, the water was in the tail cap. all the water i saw was just some condensation. seems like that could have also been caused by the light being on for a long time and heating up like it does.

 

[Monocrom]

maybe i should think about the malkoff instead then. plus malkoff just rocks...:thumbsup: you are right about the fit though....

I'll let you know how well the M60 fits in my Surefire C2 after the drop-in arrives.