Thrunite Neutron Series (XM-L) 1C, 2C, 1A, 2A Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more!

EngrPaul

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For 2AA lights, a downside is typically a bump at the rear of the light will cause the relatively heavy cells to move away from the head instantaneously, causing it to change modes.

The interesting thing about the ThruNite 2A is that it doesn't change modes after a bump for the lower outputs, the light is interrupted a few milliseconds and stays at the original output. A good thing. But in the turbo mode, it changes to strobe and back. They almost got it right!
 

ingo76

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I'm very happy with my 1c runs the now common cr 123 but will use AW imr later how much difference will it be it is a neutral,
 

selfbuilt

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I'm very happy with my 1c runs the now common cr 123 but will use AW imr later how much difference will it be it is a neutral,
As you will see in th summary tables in my review, my 1C was about 45% brighter overall on RCR compared to CR123A. Center beam lux also increases proportionally by the same amount.
 

Kingdomseeder

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I have a question. I purchased a 1C and some rcr123's but in looking at the beam, I can see no difference between using a rechargeable or a primary 123. Do you need to use AW's rcr? I bought some Tenergy rcr's and was really hoping for better output. I have a 4sevens tactical 123 and it definitely has a brighter hot spot which I can understand, but overall it seems brighter also. Am I doing something wrong?
 

selfbuilt

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I have a question. I purchased a 1C and some rcr123's but in looking at the beam, I can see no difference between using a rechargeable or a primary 123. Do you need to use AW's rcr? I bought some Tenergy rcr's and was really hoping for better output. I have a 4sevens tactical 123 and it definitely has a brighter hot spot which I can understand, but overall it seems brighter also. Am I doing something wrong?
Are your RCRs 3V or 3.7V nominal? If running the the 3V Tenergy cells, you wouldn't expect to be noticeably brighter than 3V CR123A. But any 3.7V Li-ion RCR should run brighter (but a ~45% increase isn't as great as it might sound, in real life).
 

Kingdomseeder

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Are your RCRs 3V or 3.7V nominal? If running the the 3V Tenergy cells, you wouldn't expect to be noticeably brighter than 3V CR123A. But any 3.7V Li-ion RCR should run brighter (but a ~45% increase isn't as great as it might sound, in real life).

Okay, thanks for the info. I do have the 3v and that is my problem. Looks like some new rechargeables are what I need. Thanks Selfbuilt for your valuable input.
 

grumble69

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Do I need to beware of the mAh on the battery? For example, you used the AW 3.7V 750mAh. But I saw a special at Battery Junction on an Ultrafire kit (2 batteries + charger for $21). The issue is that the batteries are 3.6V and 880 mAh. Is that ok?
 

selfbuilt

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Do I need to beware of the mAh on the battery? For example, you used the AW 3.7V 750mAh. But I saw a special at Battery Junction on an Ultrafire kit (2 batteries + charger for $21). The issue is that the batteries are 3.6V and 880 mAh. Is that ok?
I would take all mAh estimates with a big grain of salt (especially Ultrafire). Just make sure that you get the protected version (i.e. built-in protection circuit).

Not sure why they would be listed as 3.6V. Typically, Li-ions are sold as 3.7V or 3.0V versions (the latter is less common, and may not be as bright on most lights). In any case, that is only nominal voltage - in practice, they will go up to ~4.2V when fully charged.
 

Bolster

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Quickie Review of Neutron 2A Neutral

Just received my ThruNite Neutron 2A Neutral with XM-L, quick report, most of which confirms previous reports.

- Neutrual/warm tint: Yes, see beamshot below, compared with a 2007 vintage Fenix L2D Rebel and a Zebralight H501w.

- Sublumen Moon Mode: Love it. This is what sold me on this light. Just the right brightness for the middle of the night. And as others have reported, if you twist the bezel to go from moonmode to turbo and back, then moonmode won't function. You must cycle through the levels to get moonmode working again. Also, moonmode seems to be strongly tinted...can't tell if this is just playing tricks on my eyes, or what.

- Wobbly Head: Yes. From loose threads? I had thought this was an issue on the 1A, but it's also here on the 2A. Will it affect waterproofing?

- Waterproof: A couple minutes in the bottom of the tub were fine, but was careful not to move the head (head wobble & o-ring = trouble?)

- Weight: heavier than my Fenix L2D. Feels solid.

- Beam shape: Close up, the 2A appears to have a tight beam, as you can see by the beamshots. But it quickly turns floody and lights a broad area. At a distance the 2A lights up much more area than the old L2D (opposite of what the beamshots seem to show, because spill makes the L2D look wider). And the L2D seems "brighter" at a distance because it is illuminating a narrower area.

- Knurling: beefy and feels good.

- Tailcap stand: Possible but wobbly. It fell over once while attempting tailcap stand.

- SOS and Strobe: Sadly you must contend with these at the end of the cycle, no way to hide them or deactivate them. I noticed that the SOS has a long pause between repeats, which is a nice feature.

- PWM: Undetectable, by me at least.


beamshot3.jpg


Setting on camera: Daylight.
 
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Xak

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Re: Quickie Review of Neutron 2A Warm

Was yours sold as Neutral tint or Warm tint?
 

Bolster

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Re: Quickie Review of Neutron 2A Neutral

Good point, there's no identification in the materials that come with the flashlight what it is, but at GoingGear it's sold as 'ThruNite2aaN' implying 'neutral.' So I should be consistent and call it 'neutral' not warm. I think of it as 'neutral/warm' due to the yellow/brown tint.

Even the more warm H501 in the beamshot is sold as a 'neutral.'
 
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Marc999

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Great thread. I have been toying with the idea of Thrunite Neutron 1AA, Quark 1AA, or the Zebralight sc51.
I think I'll rule out the Thrunite at this point with the wobbly head and tail click mushy button issues.

1 down, 2 more to go.
 

DHart

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Marc... don't rule out the Thrunight Neutron 1AA XM-L. I just bought two of them with neutral emitters and they're both amazing lights. I'm a Quark fan, but Quark doesn't offer anything comparable to the Thrunight 1AA XM-L. Go forth with confidence. If by some chance you have an issue with one, just return it for another... no problem.

Great thread. I have been toying with the idea of Thrunite Neutron 1AA, Quark 1AA, or the Zebralight sc51.
I think I'll rule out the Thrunite at this point with the wobbly head and tail click mushy button issues.

1 down, 2 more to go.
 

nobunaga88

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- Wobbly Head: Yes. From loose threads? I had thought this was an issue on the 1A, but it's also here on the 2A. Will it affect waterproofing?

- Waterproof: A couple minutes in the bottom of the tub were fine, but was careful not to move the head (head wobble & o-ring = trouble?)

I have a question ,
whether the neutron thrunite 1a (neutral ) has the same wobbly case at all neutral neutrons 1a ?

Anyone has the same problem?

Sorry for my bad English... :naughty:
 

Marc999

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Marc... don't rule out the Thrunight Neutron 1AA XM-L. I just bought two of them with neutral emitters and they're both amazing lights. I'm a Quark fan, but Quark doesn't offer anything comparable to the Thrunight 1AA XM-L. Go forth with confidence. If by some chance you have an issue with one, just return it for another... no problem.

I didn't know they offered different emitters on the Thrunite Neutron. Mind if I ask where that is? By the way, how are your lights, wobbly heads? How about tailstanding.

Marc
 

badkarmaiii

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I can hardly wait to get my 1A back from Barry at Precisionworks. He's already bored it for a 17500 and is now working on a CR123 spacer and AA sleeve for it. There are a couple of other things in the works as well...
 

DHart

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I can hardly wait to get my 1A back from Barry at Precisionworks. He's already bored it for a 17500 and is now working on a CR123 spacer and AA sleeve for it. There are a couple of other things in the works as well...

I'm eagerly awaiting your review of the modification and accessories... That sounds really cool!
 

mamelo

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Just got the Neutron Neutral 1A. There is a bit of wobble to the head in the loosened mode. If I turn it 1/4 of a turn or so there is no problem with accidental switching of modes or levels unless you really use 2 hands and force it, it does still wobble when sideways pressure is applied, though. I must say that even the Quarks can be manipulated this way with just a slight turn of the head and not a full 1/4 turn.

The online store I wanted to buy the Neutrons (I pointed them to this problem on the phone before ordering) discovered the same issue. But only with the head not loosened correctly (e.g. 1/4 turn). They did not know that before my call, but tried other brands also and pointed out that it is not only a Neutron issue.

Instead the Neutrons, I ordered and tested Fenix LD25 and E11, and it is the same, if you twist (loosen) it in the position just when modes change, thumb pressure from the side can switch modes (LD25) or output level (E11). It can be used for switching modes on the LD25 instead of double-twisting the head though...:whistle:

Compare it to an ordinary bulb (ceiling light), if you don't screw it in sufficiently you might be able to switch it on by pressing it a bit.

I can live with it, and I doubt it raises a problem being water proof unless you press the head from the side if the light is under water...

regards
mamel
 

saclight

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Thanks for a good review ! I have read several others on various blogs, and they have not provided the details found here.:)
I just purchased the 1A, and will provide some feedback after puting it through the real life tests while hunting.
 
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Xak

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Did you really have to post the entire review with your comment? LOL
 
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