Tint comparison K2 tffc UWOE vs TVOD and others - modded 120P

Moddoo

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The 120p was nice stock, but the K2 makes a nice noticeable difference.
The stock driver was not changed.
I tried a K2 UWOE from TNC and then a K2 TVOD from Photonfanatic.

Honestly, the tints look extremely close in the photos, as well as in person.

The lights in photo left to right:

E2E w/stock incan

6p with M30W

Romisen RC-C3 Q5 from Shiningbeam (slight green tint)

Novatac 120p with K2 UWOE first, then K2 TVOD (both looked very similar, very slight purple tint)

E1E with 7882 driver, custom reflector, and Q5 WC (slight blue tint)

UWOE
120p003.jpg


TVOD
120p007.jpg


120p019.jpg
 
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I like the look of the emitter and the higher heat tolerance.

Funny how the different tints look nearly the same. I mean in person because on my computer I can't tell a bit of difference!
 
The Novatac looks awesome compared to the other LED's if you ask me, nice and bright white.
 
I'd also like to know if the K2 in the Novatac is brighter than the Seoul. Also can you see a difference in brightness between the 2 K2s.
 
The 120p was nice stock, but the K2 makes a nice noticeable difference.

Yes, the light is definitely brighter with the new K2 tffc.

Hard to tell if 1 k2 was brighter than the other.

The beam is really nice on these lights.

The tint is pretty nice and white, but there is a very slight purple hue to it.

I tried to get a comparison with the stock emitter, but those pics didn't turn out very well.
 
How did you knock the corners of the K2 off, so it would fit in the emitter well of the Novatac?
 
How did you knock the corners of the K2 off, so it would fit in the emitter well of the Novatac?

sharp pocket knife, steady hands, and a little patience.
Really not too tough of a job.

I was going to mill the pocket out a bit, but then it wouldn't be anodized in that area.
I need to get a little homebrew ano setup going...
 
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Well I thought I'd give it a try. Install went smoothly. I touched the corners of the emitter to a grinding wheel, then finished up with a file.

Here's what is amazing. My Novatac with a Seoul showed about 8600 overall lux in my lightbox. With the K2 it shows 16,400. :wow: At first I thought there was a short, but couldn't find anything, and with the annoed heat sink seemed unlikely.

With a protected cell the brightness would drop down to about 10K lux in about 30 sec. With an IMR it held for 3 min before I shut it off. It's making me nervous running at that brightness.

With a primary it showed 12500 lux and stayed there for 3 min. till I shut down.

I don't know what's going on, maybe Fred sold me a K2 with a Vf of 1.0 :). I have a K2 with a Vf of 3.50-3.75, I think I'll try that and see what happens.
 
Well I thought I'd give it a try. Install went smoothly. I touched the corners of the emitter to a grinding wheel, then finished up with a file.

Here's what is amazing. My Novatac with a Seoul showed about 8600 overall lux in my lightbox. With the K2 it shows 16,400. :wow: At first I thought there was a short, but couldn't find anything, and with the annoed heat sink seemed unlikely.

With a protected cell the brightness would drop down to about 10K lux in about 30 sec. With an IMR it held for 3 min before I shut it off. It's making me nervous running at that brightness.

With a primary it showed 12500 lux and stayed there for 3 min. till I shut down.

I don't know what's going on, maybe Fred sold me a K2 with a Vf of 1.0 :). I have a K2 with a Vf of 3.50-3.75, I think I'll try that and see what happens.

I have to try a K2 now after reading your post.

There's a possibility that your lux reading is do how the emitter and the reflector work together. The K2's die looks smaller than the P4. I also hear that the K2 on average has lower Vfs than other LEDs.
 
I have to try a K2 now after reading your post.

There's a possibility that your lux reading is do how the emitter and the reflector work together. The K2's die looks smaller than the P4. I also hear that the K2 on average has lower Vfs than other LEDs.

IMO the focus of the beam is a bit sharper with the K2.

But there is no doubt that the K2 is brighter.
funny how the lowest low used to be very dim compared to the K2 mod.
 
Well I thought I'd give it a try. Install went smoothly. I touched the corners of the emitter to a grinding wheel, then finished up with a file.

Here's what is amazing. My Novatac with a Seoul showed about 8600 overall lux in my lightbox. With the K2 it shows 16,400. :wow: At first I thought there was a short, but couldn't find anything, and with the annoed heat sink seemed unlikely.

With a protected cell the brightness would drop down to about 10K lux in about 30 sec. With an IMR it held for 3 min before I shut it off. It's making me nervous running at that brightness.

With a primary it showed 12500 lux and stayed there for 3 min. till I shut down.

I don't know what's going on, maybe Fred sold me a K2 with a Vf of 1.0 :). I have a K2 with a Vf of 3.50-3.75, I think I'll try that and see what happens.
Was that a factory light?? Whats your serial # if you don't mind me asking?? If its an early release light , I would not be surprised...
 
Was that a factory light?? Whats your serial # if you don't mind me asking?? If its an early release light , I would not be surprised...

Yes, it is a factory light. It had been upgraded to a Photonfanatic Seoul when I first got it, that raised the brightness some. My low setting still goes down to .13lm with the K2. The serial number is 10477.
 
I just went and did a ceiling bounce test against my black 120P, which is the same brightness as my pewter one was. The black gave a number of 193, while the pewter K2 one showed 379 with an RCR123 and 274 with a CR123.

Edit; added number using a CR123
 
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Couple of questions to those who have done the mod:

Any artifacts in the beam? You didn't tweak the reflector in any way or have to shim the LED, did you? Any reliability issues?

Thanks! Looks like I may have to try this to boost the output of my 85P and deal with the tint I don't really care for!
 
Couple of questions to those who have done the mod:

Any artifacts in the beam? You didn't tweak the reflector in any way or have to shim the LED, did you? Any reliability issues?

Thanks! Looks like I may have to try this to boost the output of my 85P and deal with the tint I don't really care for!

There are a few light wisps coming off of the hotspot. I would compare them to solar flares.

I did no mods to the reflector or shimming of the LED with mine.

No reliability issues with mine, but I don't use it much, mostly to play around with. I have been using only a CR123.
 
Couple of questions to those who have done the mod:

Any artifacts in the beam? You didn't tweak the reflector in any way or have to shim the LED, did you? Any reliability issues?

Thanks! Looks like I may have to try this to boost the output of my 85P and deal with the tint I don't really care for!

The beam looks at least as good IMO as before, slightly crisper.

It really is a direct replacement, except for the trimming of the K2 casing.
I believe that the K2 is slightly taller than the old emitter. it is flush with the bottom of the reflector, where the old one had a slight gap between the 2.
I haven't measured the 2 against each other yet.

Mine is my EDC right now, has been for a month now. I have run it on high for extended periods, and use it daily, though, not a ton. It's still working great.

I have mostly used a CR123 also, RCR just a bit. I don't like it when my lights just go dark without warning though.

Thanks for the lux testing, very nice results.
 
So my LED from TNC has arrived. I have a quick question though before I embark on this mod:

The K2 TFFC has four equal-size 'legs' - apparently the notch in the casing marks the cathode pair of connectors - but do I have to connect both 'legs' on each side or do I just pick a 'leg' and forget about/remove the other one? :thinking:

Thanks!
 
So my LED from TNC has arrived. I have a quick question though before I embark on this mod:

The K2 TFFC has four equal-size 'legs' - apparently the notch in the casing marks the cathode pair of connectors - but do I have to connect both 'legs' on each side or do I just pick a 'leg' and forget about/remove the other one? :thinking:

Thanks!

You can just trim off the unused legs (or ignore them)- they are not connected. Obviously, PL has a plan for them in the future or they wouldn't be there. :)
 
You can just trim off the unused legs (or ignore them)- they are not connected. Obviously, PL has a plan for them in the future or they wouldn't be there. :)

Apparently you can custom order it to be connected. But as far as I can tell from the spec sheets it's just to help the LED to get a good mount, incase you're not reflowing.
 
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