TK40 fixed after a year of not working!

lampeDépêche

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Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
1,241
Re: Fenix TK-40 Flickering

Okay, I'm surprised.

The center bar on my battery holder was not loose, so I didn't think this trick would apply.

But I was bored, so I took apart the battery-holder pretty thoroughly: all four hex-nuts on the bottom end, all four on the top end, i.e. the ones that are threaded onto the black rods where they come through the lucite end-caps.

(I did not remove any of the small philips-head screws that attach sheet-metal contact-plates to lucite).

With the four long black bars out, I then threaded the center bar out of the head-end lucite end-cap, cleaned the threads a bit with paper-towel, and reassembled the whole thing.

damned if it didn't work straight off, and keep working. I left it on all night on low, and it's working this morning. I just clicked it off, then clicked it through all of its modes, and it's working.

I am baffled by this, in part because I cannot see what electrical role the center bar and the four black cage bars play (the center one is bedded in lucite on the tail-end, so it is not part of any path from tail-end to head-end), and in part because I realize that I just don't understand the electrical pathway in this light *at all*.

Is any current flowing through the outer walls of this light? I used to spend a lot of time trying to clean up the threads on the battery-tube where the head threads on and where the tail-cap threads on, thinking I had bad contacts there--maybe that was irrelevant?

The battery holder itself has, on its head end, two coaxial contacts: the central coil spring is positive, and the outer sheet-metal spring is the negative. But then why are those two not constantly feeding current into the head? (Or perhaps they are, the so-called "parasitic drain").

What is the switch doing? On the tail-end lucite end-cap of the battery-holder there is a bright sheet-metal box with four tabs that are held down by all four lengthwise black bars. That little sheet-metal box is in physical contact with the spring coming from the clicky-switch in the tail. Is that doing any electrical work? I can't figure out a pathway. Are the long black bars conductors themselves?

Can any one explain to me what the electrical pathway is in this battery holder?

I assume it goes something like this:
1) the bulk of the current for powering the emitter is drawn from the two coaxial terminals on the head-end of the battery-holder.
2) but the switching happens electronically, by a pulse of current that starts here, goes around there, runs up to the switch, runs down the black bar, goes around the corner, stops for a drink, spirals around the threads, bounces off the backboard, and falls into the net. Or what?

Anyhow--it works! How the heck does it work??
 

lampeDépêche

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Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
1,241
Fenix TK40 Switch: How does it work?

Can anyone explain to me how the switching works on the TK40?

I posted a query like this on the end of another thread--one about how you can fix your glitchy TK40 by tightening up a piece in the battery holder.

Here's why I'd like to know:

Now that mine is fixed, I want to know how to make it *reliable*. Ideally, I'd like to make it *bombproof*, or at any rate I'd like to make the switching fail only under conditions that would make the light as a whole fail.

And that's why I need to understand how the switching works.

Not the switch, mind you--that seems to be just an ordinary clicky in the tail-cap. Rather, I mean the whole way that pressing that clicky sends an electronic signal through a pathway of conductors that eventually gets to the processor in the head and tells it "turn on!" or, "advance to the next mode!" or whatever.

More specifically: what role is played by this mysterious central bar in the battery holder? Why does its becoming loose cause the switching to fail? Why does tightening it fix the problem? Is it conducting electricity? If I tightened it up with Lock-tite, that would probably disrupt the conductive pathway. Or is it clamping together two other contacts? Maybe they could be soldered directly?

Any explanations gratefully received!
 

Pandorum

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Oct 9, 2009
Messages
157
Location
USA
Re: Fenix TK40 Switch: How does it work?

If it is that critical to you for a light to work,
get a backup light. For example cavers carry at least two for backup.
 

lampeDépêche

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Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
1,241
Re: Fenix TK40 Switch: How does it work?

get a backup light.

Thanks, Pandorum, I certainly do have backup lights. I'd be embarrassed to tell you how often I walk out of the house with more than two LED's on my person alone! (e.g. TI Quark AA with deep-carry clip in a hip pocket, Preon NW SS in my breast-pocket, Photon on my key-ring, etc.).

However, that's no reason not to make each of your lights as reliable as it can be. (Two lights are actually *less* reliable than one if the two are both glitchy and the one is rock-solid).

The TK-40 is a good light, and not a cheap light. But it has very widely-reported problems with not switching on, and this switching problem seems in some way to be caused by a problem with its battery carrier.

I'm simply looking for help in understanding how the battery-carrier is involved in the switching, so that I can devise a permanent fix. It's great to know that the light stops working when a piece gets loose, and can be fixed by tightening it up. But it can get loose again. Until I really *understand* the design, I don't know how to solve the problem for good.
 

CKOD

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Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
708
Re: Fenix TK40 Switch: How does it work?

Good thread, Ive had a TK40 that work got me for over a year now, and its survived a few falls, one from ~10-12 feet onto concrete, with just a bit of dinging on the bezel ring. I'll have to keep in mind to look at the battery cartritge if it starts playing up on me.
 

Cataract

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Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
4,095
Location
Montreal
Re: Fenix TK40 Switch: How does it work?

Can anyone explain to me how the switching works on the TK40?

I posted a query like this on the end of another thread--one about how you can fix your glitchy TK40 by tightening up a piece in the battery holder.

Here's why I'd like to know:

Now that mine is fixed, I want to know how to make it *reliable*. Ideally, I'd like to make it *bombproof*, or at any rate I'd like to make the switching fail only under conditions that would make the light as a whole fail.

And that's why I need to understand how the switching works.

Not the switch, mind you--that seems to be just an ordinary clicky in the tail-cap. Rather, I mean the whole way that pressing that clicky sends an electronic signal through a pathway of conductors that eventually gets to the processor in the head and tells it "turn on!" or, "advance to the next mode!" or whatever.

More specifically: what role is played by this mysterious central bar in the battery holder? Why does its becoming loose cause the switching to fail? Why does tightening it fix the problem? Is it conducting electricity? If I tightened it up with Lock-tite, that would probably disrupt the conductive pathway. Or is it clamping together two other contacts? Maybe they could be soldered directly?

Any explanations gratefully received!

I never analyzed how the battery carrier works, but here's what I can say:
There is no clicky in the tailcap, it is just a button that sends a signal while depressed. The first thing you want to do is to keep all the gold contacts on the battery carrier and their coresponding contacts inside the light clean, plus making sure all screws are tight on the carrier and also keep the threads and tube ends clean. Cleaning alone fixes 95% of all problems and reliability issues.
 

Mark-60

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Joined
Oct 31, 2009
Messages
56
Re: Fenix TK40 Switch: How does it work?

Well Holy Heckmonsters! My TK40 has been sitting for over a year because it just stopped working one day. I couldn't figure it out. Read this thread and scurried away to check it out. Sure enough, it was loose. I gave it a few twists and BAM! Works like a champ! I've missed this big fella! It'll be good to have my "Wall of light" again! Thanks for the fix up info!
 

calypso

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Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
2
I know this is an old post, but I had the same experience with my old TK40.
It suddenly refused to turn on. I tried everything but no joy.
I too discovered that the central column was loose after a lot of jiggling about and sure enough tightening the column did the trick.
I did a search to see if anyone had this problem and came across this post.
Wish I'd seen it before. :)
 

LightOnAHill

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Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
108
OMG OMG OMG I went home and did this and my TK 40 WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!


thank you OP and all and the one who bumped it.

and thank you CPF!!!!!lovecpf
 
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